tatra805
Silver Member
a couple of things based on my experience..
climate will influence this.
I'll go backwards in the process
Once the grass starts growing you want to keep it short so all seeds get a chance to grow and to stimulate root growth. (and the fast growing vegetation has to stay low to allow the slower growing types to develop) When seeding in fall spring fields can be wet and a pain to work on. You dont want to tear up the field making ruts.
To avoid this i seed in spring and start cutting after 2 weeks of visible growth. Then i keep the grass short, whatever mowing frequence that means. Just before summer i then let the grass grow till seed. After the seed is ready cut it again and keep it maintained.
Drag the field once and leave it, i do not roll and avoid any possible compactation. So, minimal passes and driving.
I seed by hand or spreader, dragging will anyhow create a line effect so i want a so spread as possible seed base to start with.
Ground preparation, wether new field or renovation, i always till at shallow dept (2 to 3 inches) The cut up leafs are nutrients, the roots survive partly and grow back. They also keep structure in the ground so you dont have a sand like base ground which compacts with the first rain.
I do not kill-spray but i am also not talking golf course type lawns.
Another benefit is the aeration of the ground, overseeding does not achieve this in the same amount. And you can level the field before seeding.
Before tilling manure is spread on the field. I know from experience that this works better than artificial fertilizer for starting a lawn. I guess the fertilizer is that concentrated it kind of overkills the young plants.
Start of the sequence is after a good rain, so moist field. The seeds tend to start faster.
hope it helps
climate will influence this.
I'll go backwards in the process
Once the grass starts growing you want to keep it short so all seeds get a chance to grow and to stimulate root growth. (and the fast growing vegetation has to stay low to allow the slower growing types to develop) When seeding in fall spring fields can be wet and a pain to work on. You dont want to tear up the field making ruts.
To avoid this i seed in spring and start cutting after 2 weeks of visible growth. Then i keep the grass short, whatever mowing frequence that means. Just before summer i then let the grass grow till seed. After the seed is ready cut it again and keep it maintained.
Drag the field once and leave it, i do not roll and avoid any possible compactation. So, minimal passes and driving.
I seed by hand or spreader, dragging will anyhow create a line effect so i want a so spread as possible seed base to start with.
Ground preparation, wether new field or renovation, i always till at shallow dept (2 to 3 inches) The cut up leafs are nutrients, the roots survive partly and grow back. They also keep structure in the ground so you dont have a sand like base ground which compacts with the first rain.
I do not kill-spray but i am also not talking golf course type lawns.
Another benefit is the aeration of the ground, overseeding does not achieve this in the same amount. And you can level the field before seeding.
Before tilling manure is spread on the field. I know from experience that this works better than artificial fertilizer for starting a lawn. I guess the fertilizer is that concentrated it kind of overkills the young plants.
Start of the sequence is after a good rain, so moist field. The seeds tend to start faster.
hope it helps