Advice on removing FEL cylinder please

[newbury]

I've got a '95 Kubota M4700 w/ LA1001 FEL with about 1450 hours that has a leaking cylinder.



(sorry for the sideways android pic)
I've got a guy lined up to repair the cylinder.

Removal LOOKS fairly straight forward.
Get bucket braced
Release all pressure
Remove two lines and cap the lines somehow
Remove bolts acting as retainers on pin
Slide pins out

And Bob's your uncle.

That being written I've become accustomed to things going wrong, sometimes drastically.

Should I anticipate needing significant force to push the pins out?

Will I need to replace the pins?

Any other pointers from those that have done this?

Thanks in advance.

 

[BukitCase]

Sounds like you got it covered - connectors look like standard JIC - you can measure across the threads between cylinder and the wrench flats on the connector and compare to sizes on this chart

http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/v/vspfiles/downloadables/thread_guide.pdf

Your local hydraulic/hose vendor should have these

Steel Fittings: JIC 37° Tube Plug

and these

SAE 37° Flare (JIC) Female Cap

Get 2 or 3 of EACH, cost is a buck or two each, well worth it. That'll cap off hose and cylinder.

Some cylinder pins use both the bolt you see and a snap ring on the other end - my Case does, so rather than take off the snap ring I just drive the pin out the other direction.

Once the bucket is supported (the ground works for that ) and the tractor is shut off, wiggle ALL hyd. levers several times to relieve any residual pressure and go for it... Steve

BTW, if you're gonna re-seal the cyl. yourself don't forget to LOOSEN the caps on the cyl. or you won't be able to pull the ram out - a spare hose and a bucket will come in handy too...

 

[newbury]

<snip>
Your local hydraulic/hose vendor should have these

Steel Fittings: JIC 37ｰ Tube Plug

and these

SAE 37ｰ Flare (JIC) Female Cap

Get 2 or 3 of EACH, cost is a buck or two each, well worth it. That'll cap off hose and cylinder.

Some cylinder pins use both the bolt you see and a snap ring on the other end - my Case does, so rather than take off the snap ring I just drive the pin out the other direction.

Once the bucket is supported (the ground works for that ) and the tractor is shut off, wiggle ALL hyd. levers several times to relieve any residual pressure and go for it... Steve

BTW, if you're gonna re-seal the cyl. yourself don't forget to LOOSEN the caps on the cyl. or you won't be able to pull the ram out - a spare hose and a bucket will come in handy too...

Thanks for the tip on plug and caps. I'll probably order an assortment.

And I'm not doing it myself, partially because I still don't have a full complement of tools in Mississippi. Don't even have a decent vice.

 

[Leejohn]

The best way for the bucket cyls I found was to let the bucket hang down with no pressure. Like shut tractor off and move lever until bucket is hanging free. Then after removing the bolt that holds the pin, get a air chiesel with a flat point and it well knock it right out. The one I use is a air muffler chiesel for cutting mufflers off. No more then a 20 min job. For the boom cyls just remove loader and you well have no pressure, then you can move the mount bracket freely. Now is a good time to make sure all grease fitting are taking grease.

 

[newbury]

It came out a lot easier than I thought. Thanks.