Advice on Trailer Purchase

AndyR · Aug 15, 2002

I appreciated your point about "beware of trailer salesman" as I am looking for one right now. What I found is about twice the price of what you mentioned! It certainly looks like a real strong trailer, so I'd apprciate any comments.

From a local trailer shop in southern New Hampshire (ain't much cheap around here anymore); 6'x18' lowboy flatbed, frame is 2x3x.25", tongue is 3x5x.25" and comes in under bed about 18" or so (the base of the "A"). 5' swing ramps with kickers (nice locking mechanism, ramps can be removed by sliding out the main pin). 10,000 lb GVW, dual 6000 lb axles, dual brakes, e-z lube axles, 5' tongue, 6 ply tires, brake lights completely encased in 1/4" steel, stake pockets all round, PT deck, fancy paint and lots of reflective tape, etc.

The bad news; he is asking $3465. 20' is $50 more. I went looking for the 10,000 lb rating figurein it gives me room to grow and is good for hauling rocks too. He is quoting $90.00 for an installed brake controller. This is a much strong trailer then others I've looked at but wanted to bounce this price off the experts first.

RanchMan · Aug 15, 2002

AndyR -

I understand - it can be "no fun" running the "trailer gauntlet." I've had some bad experiences with trailer salesmen in the past (just like car dealers) so "buyer beware" definitely applies!

I read your description and admit I'm a little confused on some of the specifics. I went out and looked (measured) mine so you could compare. I'm sure that some of the differences are simply due to style, but my "gut" reaction is that they are asking too much. Prices could certainly be higher up North, but some things just seem a little "out of bounds."

6'x18' lowboy flatbed

/w3tcompact/icons/hmm.gif Sounds awful narrow. Most utility trailers I've seen run at least 80" wide (mine is 84") Are you sure it isn't 7' wide? If it was only 6', for that heavy-duty a utility trailer, I'd say it is "unique" /w3tcompact/icons/hmm.gif. 84" has worked well for me - tractor/implements/vehicles, etc. I wouldn't want narrower.

frame is 2x3x.25" 

/w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif WOW! That's pretty thick steel for steel box tubing. I've seen 1/4" angle iron, but not box tubing - course I don't weld THAT much. That would certainly add to the strength, but also to the trailer's weight - something to consider. The box tubing on my trailer is 2" x 3.5" and a little over 1/8" thick (maybe 10 gauge?)

tongue...comes in under bed about 18"

Interesting. A little different than how mine is built (the best way to describe it is there are 2 "frames". The "lower frame" is essentially a box with a big triangle (tongue) and the springs attach to it. On top, the "upper frame" is the floor "frame" - basically a ladder assembly (same box tube) on 22" centers with the steel plate (1/8") welded to it. I assume that the "A" frame of the tongue on the one you're looking at is welded/integral to the rest of the frame (assuming you have only one). As long as they are good welds, I don't see any problem with 18".

5' tongue

That seems a little long to me, but that's just me - course it could help in cornering/backing assuming that the angle is rather narrow at the hitch (e.g. angle between 2 tongue rails).

brake lights completely encased in 1/4" steel

/w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif WOW! Heavy duty for sure!

...stake pockets all round, PT deck, fancy paint and lots of reflective tape, etc

You can get stake pockets from <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.northerntool.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/NTE_LLSEARCH.d2w/report?PHOTOS=on&prlngth=12727.0000>Northern Tools</A> for about $3.50 each. If you are looking to save some $$$, you might consider putting some of these "do-dads" on yourself.

As far as the pressure treated deck, I've always liked steel myself, although wood works fine too for most things. If you are using your trailer for rocks, well, they may gouge the wood. Course if you use steel, some of the paint will get scratched off so rust will come in to play. Just up to you I suppose.

He is quoting $90.00 for an installed brake controller

That sounds reasonable, although he is probably going to put in a $50 controller, so if you want to save some $$$, you can do it yourself in an hour or 2 pretty easily (even quicker if your truck is "pre-wired")

Again, it's hard to give a true "opinion" without seeing it close up, but based on what you said, it still seems a little high to me. I spent $1700 on mine, although "upgrading" to 2 brake axles (vs. the 1 it came with) added some to the overall cost. Mine doesn't have some of the things you mention, but I did get extra d-rings installed (6), a spare, recessed tie-downs (6), etc. all built to my specs. In my gut, at least, I can't see where adding the other stuff (the ramps you mention, 6000# axles, stake pockets, etc.) should add $1500 to the cost. (I could see the frame, if 1/4" thick box steel, could add some to the cost though.)

Here's a <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.trailersforless.com/and_dump_EQ7185T_trailers.html>link</A> with a trailer that sounds kindof like the one you describe. Not sure what they are asking for it, but it might be interesting to see what prices you can get over the Internet for "equivalent" trailers - then you could take it back to your local guy and say - "I'd much rather buy local - what can you do since I can get the same thing for $xxxx if I order it." Just an idea.../w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

MLB · Aug 16, 2002

That is similar to the one I just bought. Mine is a 2001 I bought used for 1,000 bucks today. It has a steel deck and is very heavy duty.

AndyR · Aug 16, 2002

I checked the sheet today and you are correct - the trailer is about 7' wide. The frame is 1/4" steel channel, not box, and I believe it is 5" wide though he offers 6" wide for an additional $200. One thing I forgot to mention is the coupler; it swings open to the side (solid top and other side) and locks in with a full wraparound sleeve that slides forward over it. I'm kinda partial to the PT deck vs. steel as I throw a sheet of plywood or two on when working with stone. As for the brake controller, I seem to remember Bird providing a bit of info on different controllers a while back and will have to look that up. Install should be a snap - the Chevy came with a controller cable if I remember right.

Thanks for your comments. This trailer dealer has a good reputation for well built stuff and he pointed out that he derated the trailer just to stay below the 10,001 lb level.
Still doing homework...

Bird · Aug 16, 2002

Andy, the hitch coupler you described is called a Bulldog hitch; very good. And for brake controllers, my personal favorite is the Tekonsha (they make several models), but there are other good ones. Just be sure it's one that increases braking force to the trailer as you increase braking force on the towing vehicle instead of one that's just "on or off" power to the trailer brakes.

Turfman · Aug 16, 2002

I have a 10,000 lb. 16 footer with a Bulldog hitch. I use aTekonsha controller and I have had great luck with this setup.

hosejockey2002 · Aug 21, 2002

Anyone considering running 26,000 GCWR with a pickup is pushing the ragged edge of disaster. I think the max GCWR for any one ton is about 20,000 or so, according to manufacturers specs. If you were moving 26,000 with a pickup and got in a wreck and killed someone, your insurance company would most likely abandon you because you were grossly overloaded. If I had that kind of weight to move I would get a used single axle tractor (Kenworth type, not Kubota), or a 5 yard dump with a tandem dual trailer. Then you could do some REAL work without worrying about breaking your pickup and invalidating the warranty. The whole CDL thing is not really a big deal. There are tests, but they are very basic and even the driving test is not very demanding. The physical is a snap if you can walk, talk, see and have a pulse.

Turfman · Aug 22, 2002

Hosejockey2002 wrote: The physical is a snap if you can walk, talk, see and have a pulse.

Of course you forgot the most important part: you can pay the physical exam fee.

dummy · Aug 22, 2002

And the commercial insurance premiums

Hoeman00 · Aug 22, 2002

I bought a new 20' long floor, 82" inside fenders, trailer 1 1/2
yrs. ago 14k GWR. 2 5/16" Bumper hitch no dovetail but has
6' swing down ramps.
It weighs 4K lbs empty 7" channel frame and 1.25" white oak floor.
Cost was 2400.00 in OH.
I have a duramax too and it will pull it fine.
If u have factory tow package in the glove compartment is the wire harrness for brake controller to hook up under dash.
U will have to put the 40 amp fuse in the fuse block under
the hood to power it.
I haul a JD 250 SSL (7K lbs)
backhoe (2k)
trencher (1k)
2 buckets (1k)
All on trailer at same time.