Advice on welding and shortning a roll bar with canopy

[chopped]

So I would be best to cut down from the top instead of the bottom I think?

 

[dragoneggs]

So I would be best to cut down from the top instead of the bottom I think?

I like your original idea of cutting and sleeving in the constant section but nearer to the top. But I am also not advocating cutting at all.

 

[dfkrug]

So I would be best to cut down from the top instead of the bottom I think?

There are THREE choices if you cut and weld the original ROPS: top, bottom, or middle

What's the easiest? The middle, since you make just 2 cuts per side, add internal weld backups
(sleeves), then weld together. This applies to the vertical elements if there is no curve. Adding
to the bottom requires re-making the bracket, and lopping the top off and adding a cross-tube
means you have to cap the cuts (DOUG).

My vertical sections were curved slightly, and I preferred 90-degree top corners, so a bit more
work was required vs. what I showed in post #3. That one had 3 cuts/sleeves, but preserved
the shape and looks stock. 90-degree corners allowed inside placement of work lights without
interfering with my head.

 

[muddstopper]

Here's the way I would do it. Unbolt ROPS from tractor frame. Cut brackets from ROPS and cut off tube to what ever length I wanted to lower the ROPS. Reweld bracket to the now shortened tube. Bolt back to tractor frame. If you welding is as good as the factory weld, the the ROPS should be even stronger than it was before you modified it, due to reduced leverage from the shortened tube. I would not cut the tube anywhere in the middle or top of the uprights, Just asking for trouble would be my opinion.

 

[muddstopper]

There are THREE choices if you cut and weld the original ROPS: top, bottom, or middle

What's the easiest? The middle, since you make just 2 cuts per side, add internal weld backups
(sleeves), then weld together. This applies to the vertical elements if there is no curve. Adding
to the bottom requires re-making the bracket, and lopping the top off and adding a cross-tube
means you have to cap the cuts (DOUG).

My vertical sections were curved slightly, and I preferred 90-degree top corners, so a bit more
work was required vs. what I showed in post #3. That one had 3 cuts/sleeves, but preserved
the shape and looks stock. 90-degree corners allowed inside placement of work lights without
interfering with my head.

I think those 90* corners would fold up like a pretzel in a sideways roll over. The curved design of the ROPS isnt only for looks. JMHO

 

[chopped]

I like this one except I would always be questioning my welds.But if I had a professional who would weld it Id go that route

Here's the way I would do it. Unbolt ROPS from tractor frame. Cut brackets from ROPS and cut off tube to what ever length I wanted to lower the ROPS. Reweld bracket to the now shortened tube. Bolt back to tractor frame. If you welding is as good as the factory weld, the the ROPS should be even stronger than it was before you modified it, due to reduced leverage from the shortened tube. I would not cut the tube anywhere in the middle or top of the uprights, Just asking for trouble would be my opinion.

 

[chopped]

Here's the way I would do it. Unbolt ROPS from tractor frame. Cut brackets from ROPS and cut off tube to what ever length I wanted to lower the ROPS. Reweld bracket to the now shortened tube. Bolt back to tractor frame. If you welding is as good as the factory weld, the the ROPS should be even stronger than it was before you modified it, due to reduced leverage from the shortened tube. I would not cut the tube anywhere in the middle or top of the uprights, Just asking for trouble would be my opinion.

I like it.Im just thinking if it was the tube I cut and then sleeve it and weld it then I wouldnt be thinking about the quality of the weld as much as it would have the sleeve inside to support it more.All good ideas here.either way its alot of work to remove a few inches. I cant really raise the ceiling, and ripping the cement floor out isnt a good option either.It is what it is I guess. just sucks when you measure and fint a couple inch to low lol

 

[dfkrug]

I think those 90* corners would fold up like a pretzel in a sideways roll over.
The curved design of the ROPS isnt only for looks. JMHO

My 90-degree corners are plenty strong, a total of over 1/2" thick at the welds due to the internally
added steel plates.

The curved ROPS are made that way not for looks at all; they are simpler to make in the factory
by just bending some 2x3 tubing in a giant press/brake. Welding is a time-consuming step. If you
look at some older ROPS from the 80s, you will find 90-degree corners, sometimes with braces.

As with any modification of this type, use your own judgement as to risks: unmodified ROPS, folded
ROPS, shortened ROPS, or no ROPS at all. The choices I make are only mine.

 

[chopped]

god point the old 80 style fords had a three part one that had bolted on top braces.thats about when they came standard with them..I hope to neve rhave to test it.

My 90-degree corners are plenty strong, a total of over 1/2" thick at the welds due to the internally
added steel plates.

The curved ROPS are made that way not for looks at all; they are simpler to make in the factory
by just bending some 2x3 tubing in a giant press/brake. Welding is a time-consuming step. If you
look at some older ROPS from the 80s, you will find 90-degree corners, sometimes with braces.

As with any modification of this type, use your own judgement as to risks: unmodified ROPS, folded
ROPS, shortened ROPS, or no ROPS at all. The choices I make are only mine.

 

[Gary Fowler]

There is nothing wrong with square corners when properly gusseted. I have never seen a rounded connection in structural steel for buildings, they are all square joints and hold a lot more than a CUT would exert in a rollover. Remember all they are certified for is that they will stop a tractor from rolling more than 90 degrees. None are designed for a roll off a mountain side.

I am sure the reason for rounded bends is cost. It cost very little to set up a piece of tubing in a bender and make all bends needed till you run out of tubing on a 20 foot joint. Just a little electricity to run the hydraulic pump, no welder needed nor xrays to confirm quality. Most likely the whole ROPS is bent as one piece then cut to make it fold down (sometimes they don't even make them foldable which only has 2 welded plates on the bottom. VERY CHEAP to do that).