Advice wanted for fixing tractor engine

   / Advice wanted for fixing tractor engine #11  
Picture 1 is the solenoid that I mentioned in an earlier post with a part number and price.
Picture 7, there is some straw, that reminds me that mice may have gotten behind the housing around the flywheel, and they have been known to chew up the ignition wires, You wouldn't have spark if they have. Also, it looks like you are taking the carburetor apart since you've removed the four machine screws holding the top of the carburetor to the base. If you haven't separated the halves of the carburetor yet, there are brass parts screwed into the base pointing down at a 45 degree angle. If you remove those brass parts from the aluminum, look inside the hole where they were and see if there is a brass screw inside there with a screwdriver slot. Get a screwdriver that isn't too wide to hit the threads in the aluminum, and is thick enough to fit in the slot and unscrew that part, it should extend into the carburetor top. Those brass pieces will be in a carburetor kit that I mentioned in a previous post. Those are your high speed fuel mixture screw.
Pisture 8 is your valve springs, you won't need to do anything with those unless it needs a valve job.
Picture 10, I would put the original muffler on, it should be OK as it is, but the paint will burn off. It will smell bad and smoke while it's burning off. Your grandfather may have put the other muffler on to send the exhaust up, he may not have liked it the way it was.
Picture 14 and 15, That's the crankcase breather. The black stuf is a filter, and is black when it's new. That, and the hose work something like a PCV valve in a car engine. It looks OK.

Be sure to download and print the parts diagram I posted earlier, it will help identify parts when you're posting here, and when talking to people at a parts counter.
 
   / Advice wanted for fixing tractor engine #12  
I forgot, that carburetor kit was part number 391071, and is $19.95.
 
   / Advice wanted for fixing tractor engine #13  
Did you get it running yet? Those older B&S industrial-commercial one-lungers run forever. I still have an old '72 15 horse Mongomery Wards garden tractor (made by Gilson) in back of the barn. Bought it in 1980, and used it hard for about 12 years with a 40" PTO rototiller and a rear blade. Never a problem except for some occasional ignition point replacements. If you don't mind a suggestion, put a piece of plywood or cardboard down and roll the tractor over it before you start taking it apart. It really sucks trying to find small parts in the gravel. Keep at it and ask lots of questions. There are probably people here who have the answers....Dan.
 
   / Advice wanted for fixing tractor engine
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Unfortuatley, I have not. I havent had the time, but I will take some of my XMAS money towards getting a new solenoid, new ignition cables, and a carb cleaner kit.

Does anybody now a good website (NOT Mapel Hunter) where I may be able to get some decals? The gear-shift decal is wearing out.

Also, can I get regular ignition cables at an auto store?
 
   / Advice wanted for fixing tractor engine
  • Thread Starter
#15  
so nobody knows any good sources to get decals?
 
   / Advice wanted for fixing tractor engine #16  
ok i have a tractor just like the one in all the pictures that is yellow and has the 10 hp briggs motor the model of the chassis is even the same, im having troubles with the engine when it runs it will run really good and smooth then all of a sudden it will vibrate really bad and start to smoke horribly i have rebuilt the engine it didnt do it before i did so either and when i put it together i think i got the syncros in line correctly but not sure i was wandering if i could take out the syncros and the engine run fine again?
 

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