aghhhh . My trusty OLD Century ac/dc welder finally gave up the ghost today

   / aghhhh . My trusty OLD Century ac/dc welder finally gave up the ghost today #1  

grsthegreat

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But not before finishing up my project. She held on till the last weld.

Then a very odd thing happened. The manual amperage handle slammed all the way to the bottom and a very loud humm is emitted from the welder. If i shut it off and reset the handle to my setting and turn the girl on, it slams to the bottom again and hums.

I guess ill have to buy a new machine. But i really LOVE this old machine. Ive had it since 1990 and has always done such a fine job on heavier metals. I nearly always used the reverse polarity dc settings.

I went online and NO stick welder i could find has dc reverse polarity listed on them. They have ac/dc units, but i guess its straight polarity.

I may have to pony up and buy a new Hobart mig that ive been looking at...but i shudder to have to pay $2,500.

Anyone know of a ac/dc reverse polarity stick welder still made????
 
   / aghhhh . My trusty OLD Century ac/dc welder finally gave up the ghost today
  • Thread Starter
#2  
Oops..never mind.

I found a new Miller stick welder with dc+/- polarity instock at my supply house.

Id delete this post if i knew how.
 
   / aghhhh . My trusty OLD Century ac/dc welder finally gave up the ghost today #3  
I think every dc stick welder can be run on straight or reverse, just switch the cables around. And what hobart mig are you looking at that costs $2500, I thought the biggest one was the ironman 230, at $1800 msrp.
 
   / aghhhh . My trusty OLD Century ac/dc welder finally gave up the ghost today
  • Thread Starter
#4  
I think every dc stick welder can be run on straight or reverse, just switch the cables around. And what hobart mig are you looking at that costs $2500, I thought the biggest one was the ironman 230, at $1800 msrp.

na, im just frustrated and not thinking straight. I pulled the paperwork (bid) for my next mig welder from my filing cabinet, and it was for a millermatic 252 and the bid was for #2,420.00 from my supply house. I was thinking it was Hobart for some times..... my mind sure plays strange things on me. Im just set on this one cause its what my friend has, and when i use it i keep wanting to steal it from him.

It is an amazing welder, and i just HAVE to have one. I just cant justify the $$$ at this time, especially after just buying the tractor and impliments.

But now i must go and look at this Hobart Ironman 230, as i like the price already:licking:


But no matter what i end up with... i just HAVE to have a stick welder. The one i found has a knob on front to switch from dc+ to dc- to ac.
 
   / aghhhh . My trusty OLD Century ac/dc welder finally gave up the ghost today #6  
I've heard good things about the Iron man.
Why not buy the Iron man and a Everlast PowerArc 200?

Hobart Ironman 230 MIG Welder 500536

My two cents: Unless you are doing serious production work or commonly weld steel >1/2 inch, why get something as big and expensive as the Miller 252? It is almost as big as the old transformer welding machines from twenty years ago. Consider an inverter machine instead. My Miller Passport is not as powerful as the 252 (Passport does 180amps 30% while 252 does 250 40% as I recall) but the Passport tops out above the 211 and 212. It sure does the MIG jobs nicely and is truly portable with paintball CO2 tanks. I also have a Maxstar 150 which is a nice portable dual voltage DC stick/tig machine that will easily burn 3/32 on 110 and 1/8' rods on 220. Weighs about 10-15lbs. It is awfully nice to have portable equipment when working on farm/tractor stuff. Also real nice to have the 110/220 option on both of them. I got both used and they do pop up on CL or eBay.

I like the looks of the Everlast 140 as a knock off of the Maxstar too. Incredible bang for the buck. $250!!! With TIG!!!! All of the Everlasts look like solid machines with great value.
 
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   / aghhhh . My trusty OLD Century ac/dc welder finally gave up the ghost today
  • Thread Starter
#7  
My two cents: Unless you are doing serious production work or commonly weld steel >1/2 inch, why get something as big and expensive as the Miller 252? It is almost as big as the old transformer welding machines from twenty years ago. Consider an inverter machine instead. My Miller Passport is not as powerful as the 252 (Passport does 180amps 30% while 252 does 250 40% as I recall) but the Passport tops out above the 211 and 212. It sure does the MIG jobs nicely and is truly portable with paintball CO2 tanks. I also have a Maxstar 150 which is a nice portable dual voltage DC stick/tig machine that will easily burn 3/32 on 110 and 1/8' rods on 220. Weighs about 10-15lbs. It is awfully nice to have portable equipment when working on farm/tractor stuff. Also real nice to have the 110/220 option on both of them. I got both used and they do pop up on CL or eBay.

I like the looks of the Everlast 140 as a knock off of the Maxstar too. Incredible bang for the buck. $250!!! With TIG!!!! All of the Everlasts look like solid machines with great value.

My problem is i do alot of 1/2 welding. And i like the miller cause its made in the USA.
 
   / aghhhh . My trusty OLD Century ac/dc welder finally gave up the ghost today #8  
My problem is i do alot of 1/2 welding. And i like the miller cause its made in the USA.

the hobart ironman 230 is also made in the usa.
 
   / aghhhh . My trusty OLD Century ac/dc welder finally gave up the ghost today #9  
My problem is i do alot of 1/2 welding. And i like the miller cause its made in the USA.

If you do some research you can find all kids of pics of the Miller components under the sheert metal not made in the USA. ie: Contacors, Capacitors, Relays, Copper Wire, Switches and alot more. The Millers should say partially made in the USA. Hobart too..Pull the cover off one at a distributor. Tell them you want to read some of the components. I just did it and was surprised.
 
   / aghhhh . My trusty OLD Century ac/dc welder finally gave up the ghost today #10  
If you do some research you can find all kids of pics of the Miller components under the sheert metal not made in the USA. ie: Contacors, Capacitors, Relays, Copper Wire, Switches and alot more. The Millers should say partially made in the USA. Hobart too..Pull the cover off one at a distributor. Tell them you want to read some of the components. I just did it and was surprised.

About 11 or 12 years ago there was a big blow out on the Hobart forum. A member challenged the fact that Hobarts were made in the USA, the moderators denied this, but one lone moderator admitted it was true, he was latter fired!:eek: I think his name was Rock.
 
 
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