Agonizing Over Enclosed Trailer Size

[Big Bri]

Was thinking about this post this morning, I hope your not thinking of buying a new trailer to try to save on gas. when you think about it 300 miles at 10 miles to the gallon thats 30 gallons at $3 per gallon thats only $90 one way or $180 round trip. If a new trailer cost $5k and i think it will cost more than that you could make more than 25 round trips. Even if you go with a v noise trailer you might only pick up 1 maybe 2 mpgs. I think you should just use what you have. just a thought. Good luck

 

[Diamondpilot]

In all honesty a V nose trailer will do very little for MPG. I have a degree in Aero Space Tech and as a pilot I have studied aerodynamics quite a bit. Look at any airplane. They are not V'ed. The real drag comes off the back side of the trailer, same with a airplane. That is why they are tapered.

My neighbor proved it 2 years ago when he bought a new camper. He has a 2007 Dmax 3500 and used to have a 7,000# 26' travel trailer that was basically a box. He got 11 mpg. He then bought a new 38' 5th wheel. I helped him evaluate the aerodynamics of each trailer he looked at and he chose one with a somewhat rounded off rear end. It weighs just over 14,000# and he has averaged 11.5 mpg in over 20,000 miles of towing this one in the last 2 years. He is on his way back today and we just talked and he was getting right at 11 mpg but running really hard doing about 75mph and going up hill.

Chris

 

[clemsonfor]

i was thinking the same as most of you, even with a 24 fter how could it be overloaded? I think it is more possible to oberload the trailer before the trucks tow capacity. Unless your movign from N. GA to W. NC trough the moutains i would not hesitate. Just slow down 10mph from your normal cruise speed and allow twice the distance to the next vehicle if not feeling comfortable.

And like others was also thinking if it really is overloaded just dont put as much stuff in there, you already own the 24 fter, just load it like a 20 if you want to. The diff in the trailer weight from 20-24 wont allow you to carry much more stuff and then you would have to buy the new trailer, even if you sold it after the move im sure you would still lose $1000 on a new one. If you want to buy one look lightly used and try for a good deal then sell it after and you may not loose a penny on the deal since you only made several trips.

But if it were me id load the 24 footer down and slow down or just not put as much into it?

-nate

 

[2manyrocks]

I sort of transitioned the same way except I didn't have any enclosed trailer and my distance was 65 miles. So I had a rent an enclosed trailer. I lost a lot of space due to the fact that household furniture has to padded and packed. I question that you will be able to totally pack your trailer and weight it down in one trip just unless you are so efficient in packing it that you're able to cram in more than I was. I agree with the other guys to use what you have.

 

[davey4000]

Thank you all for your comments. Point well taken about simply staying with my 24 footer. I guess I got off on a tangent about my truck when actually my original concern was knowing I will be making a lot of light loads (by design) and a smaller trailer would be easier to drag back and forth.

I think I'll just spend a little money getting some bags for the rear of my truck and have at it.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Unless you have the lightest duty F-250 on the planet you should not need bags for that size trailer. Get a WD hitch and you will be fine. If you need bags still you need a bigger truck. Bags are just a Band-Aid.

Chris

 

[KeithInSpace]

Concur with Mr. Chris. Bags hold up the back of the truck and mask a heavy ball. A WD hitch physically distributes the weight across the trailer and tow rig...a much better situation. A WD hitch rig isn't particulary expensive, either...$300 or $350.

Case-in-point: My Expedition has IRS...not particularly well suited to heavy towing. But with my WD hitch and reasonable "over the axle" loading of the trailer, I have hauled within 100# of my GCVWR of just over 14,000# (20' 10k capacity trailer carrying 7,000# of 21A stone) without any drama, trouble, OR SAG.

I don't see why you'd have any issues at all as long as you give just a small amount of thought to putting the toolbox over the axles and the toilet paper at the front of the trailer...

 

[davey4000]

I have an adjustable sway bar that connects from the tongue to the little ball. Would a WD hitch be a lot better?

The reason I was thinking of air bags is because my truck squats under load. It is a 2WD and kind of low compared to 4WD.

 

[KeithInSpace]

The sway bar has nothing to do with Weight Distribution. It is good to have sway control...I also have it installed ALONG WITH my weight distribution on my travel trailer...still need to install 'little ball' on the tongue of my utility trailer.

The attached picture will clarify...note the slight arch in the bars below the trailer tongue. Those are the trunnion bars and can be set to varying amounts of force depending on how tightly you bind the chains on the trailer end.

In this picture, I have my Kubota BX2230 with FEL, BH, box blade, and several other implements loaded.

If you look at the geometry, the goal IS NOT to take weight off the ball. Rather, the intent is to spread the tongue load to the front end of the tow vehicle, in effect "distributing" the weight of the trailer and trailer load to all 4 wheels of the tow vehicle. My Dad tells me that the old advertisements for these hitches would show the tow vehicle WITH NO REAR WHEELS and the hitch assembly literally suspending the rear of the tow vehicle in the air.

If I removed the WD trunnion bars from my truck in the attached pictures, the ball would be ~1-1/2 or 2" lower to the ground (rear end squat) and the IRS would hopelessly bob over every bump. If I had pictures showing the difference with and without the bars, you'd be amazed.

I can tell you that this is an amazing assembly. Not only does it make me feel more comforable by the more comprehensive connection between truck and trailer...it also completely eliminates "bobbing" at the hitch over bumps. I've tried my trailer, even unloaded, without my WD hitch and it feels horrible. I trailer a 5,000# load (between utility and travel trailers) over 500 miles round trip at least every 3 weeks and the trailer feels like an extension of the truck. Wonderful device.

Just wanted to clarify for you.

 

[schmism]

My dilemma is that I want to maximize the capacity and not push the envelope too much by once again getting too large of a trailer.

you didnt specify, fully loaded existing (8.5x24)trailer is fully loaded of car stuff (car, tools, camping gear etc) or fully loaded (like packed full) of moving-house-stuff?


if its to big with your car stuff (ie normal use) then id look to downsize.

if its to big when fully stuffed with move-the-house-stuff i wouldnt pack it full.

"maximize capacity" is a misnomer. 7x14x6 = 588cft (proposed new smaller trailer)

simply put 588 cft of stuff in your current trailer. = same number of trips as the smaller trailer without having to buy (wait for it) a smaller trailer!