Air compressor lines for stationary air compressor.

[ponytug]

Yes, I had a valve at the tank and drained lines and tank after use. I don’t use much now and don’t want to leave with pressure or moisture in tank. I’ll look at hose and likely replace. I’m not into cheap.

If you drain the tank at each use, I'd say there was no need for a valve.

All the best,

Peter

 

[CalG]

Yes, I had a valve at the tank and drained lines and tank after use. I don’t use much now and don’t want to leave with pressure or moisture in tank. I’ll look at hose and likely replace. I’m not into cheap.

There is really no practical way to remove "moisture" from the tank. Even just one drop of standing water assures that the inside of the tank is at 100% relative humidity.

 

[sd455dan]

The only sure fire way to remove moisture totally from your supply lines is to have a final removal at the point of use. Why I use Motorguard cannister filters on both my plasma cutters simply because even a tiny amount of moisture in the supply air does nasty things to any plasma cutter like destroy consumables quickly so it's expedient for me to remove ANY moisture at the point of use and the Motorguard filters also remove an solid contaminants like pipe scale before it can bet into the works. My entire system is in black iron so I always expect some internal pipe scale ti be present in the supply air. The Motorguard cannister filters have a 2 micron pass so they capture any solids and the moisture as well and the filters are easily replaceable and cheap too. You can even use a roll of TP in them, though I don't.

Don't matter if you drain your receivers or have timed drains like I have, a certain amount of moisture will always be present in the supply air simply because the compressed air is warmer than the supply piping and the piping being cooler than the supplied air will cause moisture drop out in the lines themselves.

Like fill a glass with a cold beverage and having the outside of the glass collect moisture. Same applies to compressor piping but the moisture condenses on the inside of the piping, not on the outside.

Why it's imperative to have a moisture separating filter at the point of use and why you can purchase an inline desiccant filter that attaches inline to a spray gun as well.

I'm a rattle can person but plasma cutter consumables are expensive to replace so it's a matter of economy for me to run Motorguard cannister filters on the inlets of the plasma cutters... and keep my air tools oiled as moisture will screw up the carbon vane air motors in them, if not kept lubricated.

Nothing worse than fisheying an automotive grade paint job... I always put a final in line filter at the gun even though I don't like having it attached to the gun. Next job going to add a short whip and I ordered an amazon "special" 3/4" aluminum/poly pipe with accessories.

All these years and vehicles I painted in different garages and never had any thing but rubber hoses...

Finally getting a "better than hoses" from a filter at the compressor should be a big improvement and as 5030 has said that volume at the 1" impact gun should really pep up the stuck bolt /nut busting loose ability.

As much as the really high quality black pipe and etc. cost, it would be really, Really nice but for what it costs I think these Aluminum poly kits will work for the work I plan to do. Being Pushed to get the wifes AMX on the road again, maybe even push a paint job through soon. maybe.

 

[5030]

My only comment is not only are the outlet fittings not very large in diameter (ID) but the hose is as well. The larger the ID, the more CFM you can flow.

 

[5030]

I tend to use DuPont 10FEE fish eye eliminator if I use a spray gun, which is rare. I'm a rattle can person actually.

 

[sd455dan]

3/4" ID 1" OD on the kit I bought and made sure to get a couple hundred feet - but yeah they do shrink down some of the blocks and fittings.
The kit:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CTHVTGGJ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

Definitely going to limit the line pressure to ~135PSI after reading the 140* pressure rating...

I totally missed that when I ordered the kit.

If it fails in short order I Will post it up with pics. Have never worked with this material before, we will see.

 

[5030]

Nice kit for the home shop I'd say but in my case with employees, I really had to run all black iron. I'd cut my pressure to 135 anyway. All I run my shop system at, always have. Your compressor will last a lot longer, you'll make less moisture to remember, all air tools like CFM not pressure. 135 is sufficient for any air tool, it's the air delivery that counts.

 

[pmsmechanic]

3/4" ID 1" OD on the kit I bought and made sure to get a couple hundred feet - but yeah they do shrink down some of the blocks and fittings.
The kit:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CTHVTGGJ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

Definitely going to limit the line pressure to ~135PSI after reading the 140* pressure rating...

I totally missed that when I ordered the kit.

If it fails in short order I Will post it up with pics. Have never worked with this material before, we will see.

I looked at the ad. 200 psi at 73F and 160 psi at 140F.

 

[WinterDeere]

I wouldn't want anyone to think I was less than a perfectionist but there comes a time when advancing age changes your perspective on priorities.

There also comes a time when advancing age means you've collected so much brass in your hardware drawers, that they won't close anymore, and you're just looking for excuses to use it!

 

[pmsmechanic]

There also comes a time when advancing age means you've collected so much brass in your hardware drawers, that they won't close anymore, and you're just looking for excuses to use it!

I'm with you on that. If I use something for a project and don't think i will use it again in my lifetime I don't replace it.