Air Compressor Performance

[5030]

Me either but why wait until things fail, if we could easily see a decline in their performance before failure..when you require it?

My Quincy uses no oil and like my tractors, it gets serviced regularly and I run an K&N air filter on both compressors. I use Mobil Rarus compressor oil btw. Never had the Quincy apart but it probably could use a Swedish valve de-carboning and cleaning and the poppet valves cleaned as well. I'm a Quincy and Saylor Beal fan, always have been.

 

[oldballs]

Being a newbee at compressors, if the run time is getting longer and longer does that mean the rings are wearing out? The owner manual says nothing about routine oil changes........It only recommends using 40 weight summer and 10 weight winter...non-detergent....which I never do since it is used mostly in mild spring-summer-fall weather

My Coleman belt drive 4.5 HP 26 gallon is almost 30 years old. It is used mostly for cleaning other equipment. It does seem to take longer to "fill" than years gone by.

I'm not opposed to changing to an appropriate oil however.

Cheers,
Mike

 

[big bubba]

have a higher end 2 stage Campbell Hausman that has oil reservoir. It sits in a covered porch. what's the min ambient temp it can operate w/o damage to pump, etc? 40F? am using 10/30 mobil 1 syn as recommended by manual

 

[eKretz]

I have run my IR on only 3 maintenance oil changes in 20+ years. But it's in a heated garage. It still hits it's rated CFM with nothing done maintenance-wise but an electric motor change, air filter changes and the couple of oil changes after the original break-in oil change. I don't like today's IR though. A Quincy with pressure lube is a hell of a good compressor.

 

[5030]

I was quite taken back when I found out that IR compressor heads were made in India, but then Cummins blocks are cast there as well.

 

[5030]

A Quincy with pressure lube is a hell of a good compressor.

Yes they are and beat splash lubrication, hands down plus you have the extra advantage of lube filtering. Looking at them today, they certainly not a cheap date either.

My Quincy has a 7.5 horse Century triple capacitor motor, made in USA as well and the motor has grease fittings on each end of the armature shaft.

The Quincy will outlast me and I'm sure will bring top buck when my wife sells it.

 

[sd455dan]

have a higher end 2 stage Campbell Hausman that has oil reservoir. It sits in a covered porch. what's the min ambient temp it can operate w/o damage to pump, etc? 40F? am using 10/30 mobil 1 syn as recommended by manual

That must also be a pressure lubed pump with filtration?
Correct?

Any splash lubed compressor I have seen specifically recommends Against detergent Oils. That will suspend the metal particulates and run them through all the moving parts versus settling out in the bottom of the sump.

 

[big bubba]

could be, not sure. manual recommends non detergent 30w but also mentions full synthetic M1 10/30. the manual also mentions not to operate compressor below 40F ambient temp. my question is what is the consensus on that temp for operation, regards

 

[oldballs]

My compressor is different than yours, but I know that I have run mine below 40 Deg F....with 40 weight oil Don't think that it did any damage.......it still works OK. Just below 40 deg it is just slow getting up to speed.

Yet, the increase in "fill time" might because of such wear and tear.??

Cheers,
Mike

 

[5030]

That must also be a pressure lubed pump with filtration?
Correct?

Far as I know of, no Campbell Hausfeld compressor has pressure lube, only splash and again, I only use Mobile Rarus compressor oil in my Quincy and Sulliaire and it's non detergent. I also use it in my pressure washer pump's crankcase. PW pumps all call out a non detergent oil

 

[sd455dan]

Far as I know of, no Campbell Hausfeld compressor has pressure lube, only splash and again, I only use Mobile Rarus compressor oil in my Quincy and Sulliaire and it's non detergent. I also use it in my pressure washer pump's crankcase. PW pumps all call out a non detergent oil

Well I can understand using a full synthetic in a splash style compressor, and that is what's in both of my pumps.
Especially since the manufacturer doubled the warranty to 4 years on the new 2 stage unit, but pretty sure these synthetics are non detergent.

Right , same the pressure washer pump as well.


Maybe Mobile has a 'mobile 1' that is non detergent for pumps?

 

[big bubba]

yes, mine is splash lube. thanks. sometimes i use mine in 40F or less occasionally, not commercial. just wondering, thx

 

[5030]

Maybe Mobile has a 'mobile 1' that is non detergent for pumps?

You mean Mobil I believe. The Rarus compressor oil I use is a Mobil product. I use the VG32 weight.

 

[sd455dan]

You mean Mobil I believe. The Rarus compressor oil I use is a Mobil product. I use the VG32 weight.

Yep. that is what I get for posting when tired and not proof reading. Did it twice in one sentence. SMH.
I need to get a laptop with a lighted keyboard...

 

[JCoastie]

I need to get a laptop with a lighted keyboard...

They sure are nice!

 

[SPYDERLK]

Hi. I have an IR TS5 80Gal. I checked and it does 0-170PSI shutoff in 6m59s. Its a 10yr old original setup. The motor is 5HP, Service Factor 1.15.

I saw that someone mentioned using engine oil in a compressor. I did this with no problem in single stage compressors but got a prompt surprise when I tried it in a Kellogg American 2 stage. I found the compressor locked up when it tried to start after a couple days sitting idle. Rust had formed on the wall of the second stage cylinder and the 6HP motor just hummed and then blew the breaker. I couldnt turn it by hand either. -There is always positive pressure in the 2nd stage and so the wall runs pretty dry. Moisture quickly leads to rust. Compressor oils have much better rust inhibitor additives. I never had another problem when I used a good compressor oil.

 

[panamaguy]

I have a number of older compressors and wished I had wrote down how long they ran, to fill from empty. So I could see how well they were still doing.

Thought maybe others had the same thought at some point and numbers could be collected and shared.

One is an 80 gal with an SS5 compressor and 6hp motor, 0-130psi in 7min 16 sec.

View attachment 848315
View attachment 848312

View attachment 848313


Next is a 60 gal SS aluminum twin with a 5hp motor, 0-125psi in 5min 32 secView attachment 848314

View attachment 848311


A little 2 gal 1hp, 0-135psi in 56 seconds. Might need to adjust that regulator if that gauge is correct.


View attachment 848310


What kinds of numbers do you get?

Who would really care? As long as it is making air. If you start draining the water out of the tank and find oil in it then there is a problem

 

[jwmorris]

Who would really care? As long as it is making air. If you start draining the water out of the tank and find oil in it then there is a problem

I guess just me. Just a way to quantify performance/degradation there of.

Kind of like a doctor keeping records over time to track your health vs just saying, "well, your not dead yet, see you next year."

 

[TxSteveS]

Almost new TS Dewalt 60 gallon 155psi. 15-17 amp 220 motor. 0-full in between 6-7 minutes

Refills from 125-155 in a little more than a minute if I don't pull any air.

It sure us loud, though.....

 

[5030]

All quality compressors have reed valves in the heads and when they carbon up, fill times extend but you can clean them and restore the fill time back to new. Cheap compressors, I don't believe so.

Best thing I added to my Quincy was a Tsunami auto drain. It drains condensate every time the compressor cycles and eliminates manual draining. My screw compressor has an automatic drain built in. Bought my Quincy used and it will outlast me. In fact I have someone who will purchase it any time I want to sell it for a grand. Far as I'm concerned, Quincy, Saylor Beal and Sullaire are the best and most expensive to buy compressors made and of course they are all 2 stage inter cooled units (except the screw compressor). Again, I keep my static pressure at 140 psi versus 175. You don't need 175 psi for anything that I know of, so long as you have adequate CFM and I do.

Finally, a reciprocating compressor (piston) compressor makes a lot more operating heat at 175 psi than it does at 140 and heated air in the receiver causes more condensate to form.