slowrev
Elite Member
What about CPVC pipe ? It is not nearly as brittle as PVC.
Ben
Ben
Air line materials?
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Spiffy
Veteran Member
Re-read...I think I went a bit overkill for your 30ft and I'm guessing inflating tires, air-gun, maybe a air ratchet!? What kind of CFM, applications, and how often.
If the guess is right, I'd go with [the fairly rigid type and a decent wall thickness] copper; if you slope it right you can use your tank's drain [no, water is not good for it, but water will be there anyway, so another is valve redundant]. Same assumptions: 3/8 to 1/2 ID should be more than plenty for metal; perhaps even 1/4ID if you're happy with the rigidity.
Don't be afraid of a short peice of hydraulic or 1/2 inch air hose to kill the vibrations, or still could just do the whole thing with it. You can always add FRLs and or coalescing or dessicant to the outlet later.
Does it have to be hardline [maybe you're trying to reduce OD]? Again assuming your apps, I think you'd be real happy running that 50ft 1/2 inch airline [I paid $35 on some high quality stuff including the brass fittings already crimped].
If the guess is right, I'd go with [the fairly rigid type and a decent wall thickness] copper; if you slope it right you can use your tank's drain [no, water is not good for it, but water will be there anyway, so another is valve redundant]. Same assumptions: 3/8 to 1/2 ID should be more than plenty for metal; perhaps even 1/4ID if you're happy with the rigidity.
Don't be afraid of a short peice of hydraulic or 1/2 inch air hose to kill the vibrations, or still could just do the whole thing with it. You can always add FRLs and or coalescing or dessicant to the outlet later.
Does it have to be hardline [maybe you're trying to reduce OD]? Again assuming your apps, I think you'd be real happy running that 50ft 1/2 inch airline [I paid $35 on some high quality stuff including the brass fittings already crimped].
Spiffy, thanks that was the kind of info. I was looking for, very good stuff. You got my intended uses right too, Light duty weekend stuff like inflating tires, nails guns & staplers, occational painting, rachets, etc. I'd like to have tools that require higher CFM/psi but I'm limited because I have a small compressor. I worry about the air hose idea because it will be going trough walls, top plates, etc and I'm assuming that vibration through those holes could weaken it, not to mention someday a nail could hit it. I like the copper idea as it would be eaisier to adjust length than black or galv. pipe (it dosn't have to be threaded.) I'll have to check on thick-wall copper though. Our rural hardare store only stocks one kind and I'm guessing that its the thin wall. Whould that be ok for a max. psi of 120?
Spiffy
Veteran Member
"hard" and "thick" are just bit ambiquous aren't they! /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Anyway, I was talking about the "hard" temper [for this it's best to use fittings for all but the slightest bends] so you could slope it and know you don't have sags [not a huge deal for your intentions]. I like the 1/16" nominal wall [.065] but only because my poor construction skills always kink 1/32. There may be codes somewhere, but in the "small" [say 1/4"] diameters you should be fine with whatever.
Copper Tube
I really don't think you'd have a problem [unless pointing that nail gun right at it, which could even do in copper] with hydralic line, and probably even high quality air line. Definitely recomend isolating your compressor virbrations from the copper with a short peice of hydralic or air line anyway.
Don't forget a coalescing or desicant for painting; nothing like a water droplett just when thinks are looking perfect!
Have Fun! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
Anyway, I was talking about the "hard" temper [for this it's best to use fittings for all but the slightest bends] so you could slope it and know you don't have sags [not a huge deal for your intentions]. I like the 1/16" nominal wall [.065] but only because my poor construction skills always kink 1/32. There may be codes somewhere, but in the "small" [say 1/4"] diameters you should be fine with whatever.
Copper Tube
I really don't think you'd have a problem [unless pointing that nail gun right at it, which could even do in copper] with hydralic line, and probably even high quality air line. Definitely recomend isolating your compressor virbrations from the copper with a short peice of hydralic or air line anyway.
Don't forget a coalescing or desicant for painting; nothing like a water droplett just when thinks are looking perfect!
Have Fun! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
Spiffy
Veteran Member
BTW; Even for low CFM I still like at least 3/8 ID; but then I would say it's wise to stick to 1/16 walls. If it "feels" right to you it probably will be though. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( <font color="blue"> For this it's best to use fittings for all but the slightest bends </font> )</font>
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( <font color="blue"> because my poor construction skills always kink 1/32 </font> )</font>
Man Spiff, now you lost me. I know of two types of copper. First is rigid pipe in 10 foot lenths that is never bent. Second is copper coil that is amost always bent except on the ends where flare fitings are usually used. Which one are you talking about?
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( <font color="blue"> because my poor construction skills always kink 1/32 </font> )</font>
Man Spiff, now you lost me. I know of two types of copper. First is rigid pipe in 10 foot lenths that is never bent. Second is copper coil that is amost always bent except on the ends where flare fitings are usually used. Which one are you talking about?
Spiffy
Veteran Member
<font color="blue"> ( For this it's best to use fittings for all but the slightest bends )....( because my poor construction skills always kink 1/32 ) </font>
The two statements in question [though espcially the first], I'm referring to the straight stuff you're talking [not trying to "bend" it, but just being lazy when trying get between a couple areas that "don't quite line up" or sometimes I'm just a clutz!]. Being rigid and already straight, this will give the best "slope" control for water drainage.
<font color="blue"> [not a huge deal for your intentions]. </font> Eluding now to the fact you'd likely be happy with the soft [coiled] stuff, boy was I out to cause confusion! /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
For your situation, I think you'll be happy with the coiled stuff, but without a pretty good slope, you'll likely have a couple areas that are shaped just right to retain some water [not a big deal for you]. BTW I have been known to get too wild when bending the soft stuff and kink it too so I'm not surprised my statement was confusing! Also .050 or .065 really won't make a difference when the "1/32" [.03] wall would easily take you're pressures.
Longer than the 30ft [or really moisture paranoid]; I'd really go with the rigid straight pipe, but if you use whatever you're most comfortable with, you should be happy. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
The two statements in question [though espcially the first], I'm referring to the straight stuff you're talking [not trying to "bend" it, but just being lazy when trying get between a couple areas that "don't quite line up" or sometimes I'm just a clutz!]. Being rigid and already straight, this will give the best "slope" control for water drainage.
<font color="blue"> [not a huge deal for your intentions]. </font> Eluding now to the fact you'd likely be happy with the soft [coiled] stuff, boy was I out to cause confusion! /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
For your situation, I think you'll be happy with the coiled stuff, but without a pretty good slope, you'll likely have a couple areas that are shaped just right to retain some water [not a big deal for you]. BTW I have been known to get too wild when bending the soft stuff and kink it too so I'm not surprised my statement was confusing! Also .050 or .065 really won't make a difference when the "1/32" [.03] wall would easily take you're pressures.
Longer than the 30ft [or really moisture paranoid]; I'd really go with the rigid straight pipe, but if you use whatever you're most comfortable with, you should be happy. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
tc35dforme
Platinum Member
Copper 101 ( if anyone cares /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif)
Wall thickness codes:
Type 'M' = thin > Use for low corrosion low flow applications ( heating loops )
Type 'L' = medium wall thickness > most common for water pipe
Type 'K' = heavy wall thickness > special applications / underground stuff
Hard tubing is rigid like steel pipe and is available in special grades for oxygen and airconditioning use as well as good old plain stuff.
Soft temper or Soft roll is semi rigid and can be carefully bent to suit. It will kink if you get too agressive.
Wall thickness codes:
Type 'M' = thin > Use for low corrosion low flow applications ( heating loops )
Type 'L' = medium wall thickness > most common for water pipe
Type 'K' = heavy wall thickness > special applications / underground stuff
Hard tubing is rigid like steel pipe and is available in special grades for oxygen and airconditioning use as well as good old plain stuff.
Soft temper or Soft roll is semi rigid and can be carefully bent to suit. It will kink if you get too agressive.
Thanks TC35, I'm guessing that my rural harware store has "type L" rigid pipe. I guess that is what I will use for my air supply. I'm planning on soft sodering the joints exactly like I do for water supply, with flux and lead-free soder.
How do you spell "soder" anyway, I don't think I did it right because mine looks like someone who installs grass.
How do you spell "soder" anyway, I don't think I did it right because mine looks like someone who installs grass.
slowrev
Elite Member
Solder
