Algae in my Diesel - Next Steps?

[Fallon]

My tank on the stand has a particle filter followed by a water block filter.

Just sold my L3200, but will get an in-tank screen for my upcoming L4060. Father-in-law didn't take off the plastic pipe with plastic stuffed in the end I had over the fuel nozzle to keep crap out... Dead tractor, plastic fishing & injector bleeding followed that evening. Seen those screen setups about the size & shape of a Pringle can that fits inside the tank in the neck. Would have prevented that & other bigger crap from getting in.

 

[RNeumann]

Biobor Jf Fuel Additives - Products


This stuff has a long track record of success. We have always used it per instructions. Note that 16oz treats over 1200gals

 

[Raspy]

I've dealt with this problem around boats for years. It's always there to some degree.

The fuel pickup should be at the lowest point in the tank to get the actual water puddle out of there, if possible, or a bottom tank drain can be opened once in a while to check for water. With a bottom pick-up it will end up in your water separator or filter and can be removed. Put in a biocide to kill the algae. Then keep changing the filters as needed until it is cleared up. Changing the fuel is just a waste as the algae is stuck to the tank wall and must be killed and filtered out. As the tractor or boat bounces around it will stir things up and help the removal.

I've burned lots of algae contaminated fuel by just filtering it before the engine. My boat always had some in it's tanks and I kept extra filters handy when underway.

Trying to make sure you don't add water with your fuel is nice, but it's the condensation from air that brings it in with changing temperatures. An occasional dose of biocide will keep it under control and draining the water separator occasionally will get rid of it and show you what has accumulated. Closing the tank vent with a valve might help, but a piece of tape over the vent hole will probably do nothing.

I was given a couple hundred gallons of very old fuel that was from a heating oil tank. It was delivered in five gallon containers and was contaminated. I just let it settle and poured it through several layers of T shirt, stopping when I got to the settled contaminants, and then added it to my Mercedes diesel. Never a problem. And with all the contamination I had in my boat, I never through any away.

There is also a process called "polishing" where the fuel is pumped out and through a filter setup and than back to the tank. This can be done several times and the returning fuel can be sprayed into the tank to "pressure wash" the tank interior. The fuel itself is fine, it's just the contaminants you want out.

 

[Deleted member 216442]

I have a JD 1070 that I only use a few times a year and I recently discovered algae in my diesel. I try and keep the tank pretty full and buy fresh pump grade diesel but apparently that's not good enough. I understand that if algae grows in diesel that I have water in my diesel. Here are my questions:

1. I assume I should drain the tank and replace it with fresh diesel? Or can my 10 gallons of diesel be saved with an additive/treatment?

2. Should I replace the diesel fuel and treat it immediately. Will the treatment remove any residual algae (if any) from the tank/lines? What biocide/cleaner/treatment should I use? Killem???

3. I plan to replace the strainer at the tank and the fuel filter by the engine but should I do it immediately or let the additive work for a while?

4. Is B20 grade diesel better when it comes to staying fresh? What about Biodiesel?

The tractor runs great but I want a better plan so this doesn't happen again.

Here's what I found:

Strainer was almost completely clogged and I think that crap is algae:

Here's what a tank fuel sample looked like compared to fresh diesel (tank fuel sample on left):

My old fuel tank cap. Rust might be from condensation:

The 1070, if the same as mine, also has a sediment/water bowl just below the fuel tank on the right rear side. Inside it is a red plastic ring that rises if there is water in the bowl. Be sure to unscrew the clamping ring and remove and clean that bowl out along with everything else. The tractor will not run well for long with that contamination - it has reached the point to just before your injector pump on the right side of the engine. It will starve of fuel and cut out, perhaps you haven't run it long enough at high enough rpm to experience that fuel demand. I found I have to use a good biocide in my fuel containers when I purchase fuel each time. Not all fuel treatments are biocide - make sure it is. Keep shopping if the treatment bottle doesn't say biocide. Sitting without use is the enemy of clean fuel and good running. Run it more often. That rusty cap inside surface says contamination with water for sure. Mine has never looked like that, even with the problems I had.