Algae in my Diesel - Next Steps?

[davefr]

I have a JD 1070 that I only use a few times a year and I recently discovered algae in my diesel. I try and keep the tank pretty full and buy fresh pump grade diesel but apparently that's not good enough. I understand that if algae grows in diesel that I have water in my diesel. Here are my questions:

1. I assume I should drain the tank and replace it with fresh diesel? Or can my 10 gallons of diesel be saved with an additive/treatment?

2. Should I replace the diesel fuel and treat it immediately. Will the treatment remove any residual algae (if any) from the tank/lines? What biocide/cleaner/treatment should I use? Killem???

3. I plan to replace the strainer at the tank and the fuel filter by the engine but should I do it immediately or let the additive work for a while?

4. Is B20 grade diesel better when it comes to staying fresh? What about Biodiesel?

The tractor runs great but I want a better plan so this doesn't happen again.

Here's what I found:

Strainer was almost completely clogged and I think that crap is algae:

Here's what a tank fuel sample looked like compared to fresh diesel (tank fuel sample on left):

My old fuel tank cap. Rust might be from condensation:

 

[Industrial Toys]

I NEVER had this problem except in my 770 years ago. Man, what a nightmare! I had to meticulously clean out much of the fuel system. Especially the fuel tank. I pressure washed it, then sucked out the water with a venturi style vaccume, made sure it was totally dry before adding fuel. Blew out the lines to the filter.

 

[Rock knocker]

I know all about this. We have a 950 that was stored outside from 1983 until 2012. Water in the fuel was a never ending problem even after it was stored inside, which I subscribe to water being a result of algae respiration and waste. Anyway, shocking the heck out of it with Bio-Kleen by Power Srvice Corp. worked great.
Bio Kleen Diesel Fuel Biocide | Power Service

 

[powerscol]

4. Is B20 grade diesel better when it comes to staying fresh? What about Biodiesel? B20 is biodiesel - stay away from the stuff as its shelf life is not as good as you have found out. It also jells sooner.
There are several good Biocide treatments out there as mentioned above. It appears you already have alga in the tank, so a good cleaning is in order. I would suck it out through the cap someway, so you can get to the bottom of the tank. I would also flush it with clean fuel. Save the old and treat for re-use if it clears after treatment. Water can enter you system through condensation, It come in through the vent cap. My FIL in Mississippi has a lot of problems with this too and keeps his fuel treated and topped off, especially in the winter.

Good luck

 

[LD1]

I am sure you will get many opinions, as there are some on here who believe in NO additives at all, and insist they arent needed and a waste of money.

I on the otherhand treat everything with the bio-kleen by powerservice that rock knocker posted. And this after going through 2 $1000 injector pumps in my dodge in 15k miles. The shop that rebuilds the pumps said I was foolish not to run additives, so I have been running them since. Simple filter changes isnt enough anymore, especially in equipment or vehicles that are not daily drivers.

As to your situation, pitch that filter and get a new one. Drain and flush the tank. Then refill with fresh fuel thats been treated and go from there.

 

[Texasmark]

Power Services products are what I use. They have several different products for different problems/protection. Keep my tanks squeaky clean. I inspect the tanks every time I fill them and fuel at the bottom is red tinted (dye) but otherwise crystal clear.

I use an inline filter at the outlet of the pump, Gold something or other brand, commonly stocked at ag stores.

On your problem, I use 55 gallon drums upright, sealed when not being used, so it's easy for me to adapt what I am about to say:

1. Ensure that your fuel tank has been undisturbed for as long as you can wait.
2. Raise your pickup off the bottom of your tank as far as you feel prudent.
3. If you don't have one, install a filter at the point of use.
4. Pump out your tank with the above resources.
5. Drain tank
6. Install protection via PS products or something similar for fuel storage.
7. Refill your tank.
8. Replace your inline filter media
9. Enjoy clean diesel.

Optional, might want to draw down and then drain your equipment fuel tank(s) and install new fuel filters too.

 

[ovrszd]

Good advice here!!!

I wouldn't even consider saving the fuel from the tractor tank. I'd dump it all.

Use additives from this point forward focusing on Bio treatment.

You must treat ALL of your storage containers. This is like a virus and you'll spread it by using contaminated sources. This contamination usually starts in storage tanks and is then transferred to equipment. Nasty, nasty, nasty!!!! Get control of this immediately.

Off point. Good side is that I use my equipment so often the fuel doesn't have a chance to go bad..... Bad side is my fuel bill reflects that.....

 

[Renze]

In 2008 blending in biodiesel became mandatory here in Holland. Everything broke, or stalled. Old stuff quit because of clogged filters, new stuff had CR failures, both Bosch CR on Cummins and Denso CR on Deere. I had it in my tractor last year and flushed the tank, then bought bacteria killer.

The problem is biodiesel is hygroscopic, it absorbs moisture from the air. Then in the layer between the water at the bottom, and the fuel that floats on top, there is a mixed layer where bacterias grow.

 

[bigdeano]

On my old gas tractors I put a piece of electrical tape over the vent hole in the winter to at least slow down the air going in and out. The tanks are almost empty so a lot of gas isn't sitting there waiting for someone to steal it. Haven't had any water problems in a long time.

 

[lucky llama]

I have had this problem with many different diesels. If it is easy drain the tank and refill. Then treat with an algae killer. You should also have several spare fuel filters on hand they will continue to clog for awhile. Marine diesels have this problem quite often.

 

[Copperhead]

FPPF Killem is a great biocide additive to get a handle on critters that have set up home in fuel. Many in commercial trucking use this product. Can find it at many commercial truck dealer parts departments. Put some in, slosh it around and let it sit for a day. Drain the system. Refill with clean fuel and put some more Killem in the tank as you do. You should be fine after that. Of course, change filters as needed.

I dose my commercial tanks once a month with Killem just to be on the safe side.

 

[Jerry/MT]

I have a JD 1070 that I only use a few times a year and I recently discovered algae in my diesel. I try and keep the tank pretty full and buy fresh pump grade diesel but apparently that's not good enough. I understand that if algae grows in diesel that I have water in my diesel. Here are my questions:

1. I assume I should drain the tank and replace it with fresh diesel? Or can my 10 gallons of diesel be saved with an additive/treatment?

2. Should I replace the diesel fuel and treat it immediately. Will the treatment remove any residual algae (if any) from the tank/lines? What biocide/cleaner/treatment should I use? Killem???

3. I plan to replace the strainer at the tank and the fuel filter by the engine but should I do it immediately or let the additive work for a while?

4. Is B20 grade diesel better when it comes to staying fresh? What about Biodiesel?

The tractor runs great but I want a better plan so this doesn't happen again.

Here's what I found:

Strainer was almost completely clogged and I think that crap is algae:

Here's what a tank fuel sample looked like compared to fresh diesel (tank fuel sample on left):

My old fuel tank cap. Rust might be from condensation:

It's not actually algae, it's bacteria that live at the fuel/water interface. They actually feed on the fuel. (It's also a problem for commercial aircraft particularly those operating in the tropics and sub-tropics.) Condensation in the fuel tank is the usual source of water found there. Condensation can be minimized by trying to keep the tank as full as possible after shutting down. Since you live in Western Oregon you need to pay attention to this. Treating the fuel with a biocide can also help keep this problem under control. Most fuel filter housings have water drains and you should be sure to regularly open these drains and catch what comes out in a glass jar. You can then see if water is present and how much.

I'd advise you to drain the tank and flush it with a bit of fresh diesel. Take out the tank strainer at the outlet and clean that also. refill completely with fresh diesel and biocide per the label on the biocide. replace the fuel filter and clean the bowl and then let it refill with treated fuel. Run the engine to get the fuel in the entire fuel delivery and return system. Try to keep the tank full to minimize condensation and regularly drain the water from the bottom of the filter housing, checking the drained fuel for signs of water or bacterial sludge. When you replace your fuel filter at the next interval , check for signs of sludge and treat with biocide per the label.

 

[powerscol]

Given the rusty cap, give it a good cleaning and be sure the vent still works.

 

[ovrszd]

None of my diesel equipment sits for more than a couple days with a partially full tank. By the time the gauge is at half full I'm topping them off. Including my truck and my transfer tank. Keeping them topped off, especially if parking for extended time, reduces the condensation in the tank. If you must park for extended time, treat the fuel, top the tank, your problems will go away.

 

[bdog]

I had this happen to my 4440 when I first bought it. I put some biobor JF in the tank and it cleared right up. I never even drained the tank just changed the filters a couple times and cleaned the prefilter screen a lot until it was gone.

 

[adventure bob]

1. The OP never said he was running bio, just asked the question. So OP were you running bio or was that fuel straight diesel?
2. "Algae" happens in regular diesel as long as there's water in the system and its sits long enough for colonies to take off.
Jerry is right its not algea. Algea is a plant and needs light to live. It is fungus, bacteria and their by products.
3. Drain and clean everything you can reach, then fill with fresh diesel and a treatment to kill it. It will be fine.
The most amazing thing is that the incidence of "algae" in diesel fuel went up significantly when we dropped to low sulfur diesel.

Bio diesel, at least what you can buy at a pump normally, is a blend of bio and dino diesels. B10 is 10% Bio, B20 is 20% bio. In blends as high as B50, the water in solution is negligibly higher than straight dino diesel. Search the web there's a bunch of ag colleges that have done research on it. Now in B100 the measured water in solution over time is much higher than dino, about 30% higher after 130 days. Bio is safe if you 1. buy it certified to ASTM 6751, 2. buy it fresh, 3. use it within 90 days.

Since the OP doesn't run his tractor often, I would say stay away form bio. I go through a bunch of fuel, so when I can find bio, I run it.

 

[davefr]

I almost always use plain diesel. Only once did I get the B20 grade.

I've decided to do what Power Service recommended:
1. Pumped out the bottom layer in the tank. (approx. 1-2 gallons)
2. Treated with both their Clear Diesel and Bio Kleen products. (used shock treatment dosage rates)
3. Did the same for my 5 gallon jugs but used the maint. doses.
4. Replaced fuel cap and cleaned tank strainer screen

Next steps will be to recheck the strainer and replace the fuel filter. I'm waiting for the two Power Service products to do their thing.

I would have drained the entire tank but the problem is how to dispose of 10 gallons of diesel??? Power Service's Clear Diesel suggests a complete tank drain is unnecessary.

I do not use the tractor frequently. I hope this plan works.

Thanks for the suggestions.

 

[Huskerfan]

So is everyone filtering their diesel fuel prior to filling? I never have on 4 small kubota diesels over the last 14 years of operation.

 

[davesl708]

So is everyone filtering their diesel fuel prior to filling? I never have on 4 small kubota diesels over the last 14 years of operation.

I started after seeing a bunch of junk in the bottom of the 5 gal. can.
I use a Mr. Funnel and it works great.

 

[ovrszd]

It's very hard to filter out of a jug/can. If that's your source of fuel be diligent about changing tractor filters and draining off water if so equipped.

My in-bed transfer tank has a filter.