All thread rod as rebar

[spitter]

Don't over think it. I've demoed lots of old slabs and walls that had all kinds of long metal ranging from threaded rods to conduit to old gas pipe from when houses had gas lighting in them all where in great shape.

Now if you are building a nuclear power plant or rebuilding the hoover dam, I wouldn't use it.

 

[freedomlives]

I second the "try to sell it" and then buy cheaper rebar (if that makes sense price wise where you are).

 

[st8yd]

I would definitely use it. Most rebar is 40 ksi, but I always use 60 ksi, it's not much more and has greater strength. I'm sure the threaded rod is at least that.
Lap it the same as you would rebar.
It will have no problem gripping the threads, no need for nuts.
As mentioned though it's more expensive than rebar so if you can sell it you would be ahead. But it may not be worth the effort.
And typically you are not supposed to weld rebar, just tie it together.

 

[Little Red Tractor]

Great grab! Free metal of any kind is good.
If you have the equipment, and have to have turns, either heat it with a torch and let it cool slowly, then bend it or, as already suggested, weld the corners. Either one should produce good results.

 

[kenbgbill]

My question to you is what is this concrete slab for? If you’re putting a house on it, I’d suggest no. Rebar is significantly stronger and able to support the stress and movement of the concrete more than these rods. However, if it’s purpose is something else, say a patio or for a barn or parking structure, go ahead.

 

[alpha&omega]

You will be fine to use threaded rod, just so long as you clean it up before using it - hose it off and hit it with some brake clean. Some of the oils used on threaded to cut them or those used to help prevent rust/corrosion may inhibit the concrete from adhering to the bar properly prior to curing. When this happens you can see stress fractures splaying out similar to a pour that was too dry or those poured too wet without the proper float techniques being used.
The only other concern to take into account is if you plan to cut reliefs into your pour, you might have to run the saw a bit slower due to a thicker rod. The same goes if you plan to pin the front edge with a second [sloped] pour - where one edge meets another similar to a garage entrance. However this may not be an issue where you live due to warmer winters.

 

[CoyPatton]

I have to question what is the concrete project. There are projects that I would have no issues with using the all thread. Then there are projects that I would not consider putting all thread in at all.
I have used all thread for lots of projects, and 1 point I can tell you for a fact is that at 3/8” and 1/2” all thread, it will bend a little bit and then break unless you change its tensile strength usually with heat. Rebar is a relatively soft tensile and easily bent.
As for fencing and such in place of concrete wire as mentioned fence is flexible although probably not as strong as it tends to be thinner.

 

[Farmall7777]

At a work project they were going to put several hundred feet of all thread rod in the dumpster as the job was complete. Most is in 12 foot long sticks. Most 1/2 inch, some 3/8s. I have no near future use for it but have a concrete project coming up. Can I use it instead of rebar for the concrete?

At a work project they were going to put several hundred feet of all thread rod in the dumpster as the job was complete. Most is in 12 foot long sticks. Most 1/2 inch, some 3/8s. I have no near future use for it but have a concrete project coming up. Can I use it instead of rebar for the concrete?

If your concrete project is for light duty purposes - shed or a pressure washer pad then yes it’s okay. If you’re pouring a foundation for a home, equipment barn, or driveway - Definitely Not! Just like anything else the foundation of your project is key; don’t skimp on it.

 

[Gord Baker]

If it is plated or galvanized it will last a longer time. Be sure that it is midway during the pour, not laying on the ground. Put is it a repeatable pattern on the slab.

 

[aircommuter]

I agree with others that using it for home non engineered projects is fine.
For comparison grade 40 is 40,000 tensile strength yellow tipped, 60 is 60,000 and green tipped, a red tip one end means it’s weldable. These are general markings but there are sometimes other identifiers.