A professional saw is a big investment for an occasional user to have gather dust 51.5 weeks a year. A steady diet of 20" hardwood, and sure, spend the money for the weight savings & capacity. I saw the "premix" at Lowe's the other day and would personally rather mix myself, for thrift and knowing the mix is on & the fuel is fresh.
You should take the bar off after you've sharpened & check it, and the chain for nicks & burrs. At the same time, flip the bar over so it wears evenly. Watch your chips, and if the saw is throwing lots of dust/powder, stop and sharpen the chain. 5 minutes of sharpening will pay for itself 50 times over from wasting time & machine hours trying to grind the wood out with a bad chain.
If your chain is sharpened properly (and that means you need to see chips at least, ribbons ideally), your fuel mix is right, your oiler is getting oil to the bar, the bar channel is open to flow, and the groove and chain are burr free, then the bar will heat normally, but shouldn't smoke.
Just serviced the saws midweek (sat this summer) and found the oiler obstructed on the Stihl. If I hadn't gone through the preventative maintenance & checked for oil output, I'd have potentially damaged the chain/bar in short order. It is always worth the time to be sure any saw is clean, adjusted, and functioning properly before you put it to work.
The oiler on the Stihl is much smaller output than the Husky, and it just barely throws a mist on paper, but it seems to be enough... I prefer to see strands thrown, like the Husky, but it's an older saw, and I expect environmental pressure has helped eliminate the threat of bar oil residue from our nation's woods on newer saws.
Enjoy the new saw, and make a habit of a quick p.m. prior to going to work.
