MtnViewRanch
Elite Member, Advertiser
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- Mar 19, 2005
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Alternate source for hydraulic top links?
- Thread starter picker77
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OP
picker77
Gold Member
- Joined
- Feb 4, 2006
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- 385
- Location
- Central Oklahoma
- Tractor
- JD 3032E, dual remotes, TnT, tooth bar, grapple
Hi MVR, this will probably be harder to explain than it was to do, but I'll try it: First thing to make clear is the adjustable OEM side link (which I moved from the right side over to the left) only has 4" of total travel available. I built this HSL from a 6" stroke cylinder, so I had an extra inch of travel each direction from the mid point to play with.
Initially, I was going to just screw the OEM SL out to the midpoint of it's adjustment range, measure it, and make the HSL to match that overall length when the 6" cylinder's rod was extended to its 1/2 stroke position. That would have matched the original side link's overall length, and would have left me with about +3" and -3" adjustment available on the right side of the tractor, compared to the +2" and -2" of the OEM SL on the left side. When they were both set at their mid points, the implement would be level. Simple and straight forward.
However, I decided I might want a little more tilt to the right than the left, so instead of extending the cylinder rod 1/2 of it's travel (or 3"), I extended it only 2". Then I just cut off the rod the right amount to equal the desired overall length including the length of the clevis that I removed from the fixed side link. That matched the overall length of the OEM SL, but meant the cylinder was extended 2" instead of 3" when it matched the OEM SL's overall length. Therefore, the HSL's available adjustment range (compared to the OEM SL) became +4" and -2" instead of the originally planned +3" and -3".
As for why, I'm right handed and old and stiff in the back, so I do most of my twisting around and looking back while box blading over my right shoulder, not my left, and all the important controls are under my right hand, including the TnT control levers. So I set this up so I could dig a little deeper to the right if I want to. Not a very dramatic reason, but it made sense to me.
BTW, if anybody else is considering doing this, it was a lot easier to do than I thought it would be at first. In fact, the hardest part has been getting all four hoses routed so they don't get pinched, stretched, or bent too much when the box blade is waving around back there at all kinds of odd heights and angles.
SAFETY WARNING: Haven't seen this mentioned before, but Top and Tilt moves a three point hitch around A LOT when you start playing with the side link, and I can personally attest it is capable of whipping a 400+ lb box blade around so fast you won't believe it if you don't go easy with it. Make sure nobody is anywhere near the implement when manipulating the controls, including you!. In fact, I may consider adding a needle valve or restrictor to slow mine down some, so I don't have to be so careful about feathering the levers.
Initially, I was going to just screw the OEM SL out to the midpoint of it's adjustment range, measure it, and make the HSL to match that overall length when the 6" cylinder's rod was extended to its 1/2 stroke position. That would have matched the original side link's overall length, and would have left me with about +3" and -3" adjustment available on the right side of the tractor, compared to the +2" and -2" of the OEM SL on the left side. When they were both set at their mid points, the implement would be level. Simple and straight forward.
However, I decided I might want a little more tilt to the right than the left, so instead of extending the cylinder rod 1/2 of it's travel (or 3"), I extended it only 2". Then I just cut off the rod the right amount to equal the desired overall length including the length of the clevis that I removed from the fixed side link. That matched the overall length of the OEM SL, but meant the cylinder was extended 2" instead of 3" when it matched the OEM SL's overall length. Therefore, the HSL's available adjustment range (compared to the OEM SL) became +4" and -2" instead of the originally planned +3" and -3".
As for why, I'm right handed and old and stiff in the back, so I do most of my twisting around and looking back while box blading over my right shoulder, not my left, and all the important controls are under my right hand, including the TnT control levers. So I set this up so I could dig a little deeper to the right if I want to. Not a very dramatic reason, but it made sense to me.
BTW, if anybody else is considering doing this, it was a lot easier to do than I thought it would be at first. In fact, the hardest part has been getting all four hoses routed so they don't get pinched, stretched, or bent too much when the box blade is waving around back there at all kinds of odd heights and angles.
SAFETY WARNING: Haven't seen this mentioned before, but Top and Tilt moves a three point hitch around A LOT when you start playing with the side link, and I can personally attest it is capable of whipping a 400+ lb box blade around so fast you won't believe it if you don't go easy with it. Make sure nobody is anywhere near the implement when manipulating the controls, including you!. In fact, I may consider adding a needle valve or restrictor to slow mine down some, so I don't have to be so careful about feathering the levers.
Last edited:
MtnViewRanch
Elite Member, Advertiser
- Joined
- Mar 19, 2005
- Messages
- 10,643
- Tractor
- Mahindra 7520, Mahindra 3215HST, Case 580 extendahoe, Case 310 dozer, Parsons trencher, Cat D6,
Picker77, thanks for your reply, glad that it worked good, hope it works out well for you. 
kennyd
Advertiser
If you flip the washers over you should have no problem. TnT looks fabulous:thumbsup: