Alternative adjustable lift rod on 3PH

[Soundguy]

Yep.. I just found a rear pic of my 8n.. it has / had the ball ends. Perhaps he can order a 'will-fit' replacement from CNH by specifying another model's aprts.. etc.

Soundguy

 

[daTeacha]

I was at TSC over the weekend looking at such items. As long as you guys are thinking in terms of modifications of the end fittings and tight clearances, how about replacing the adjustable lift arm with a ratchet jack originally meant to work as a top link? It wouldn't be quite as nice as a hydraulic unit, but would afford more leverage than the crank style and might work in the case of limited clearance on one or two sides. I think the handle of the one I was looking at came out, too, when it wasn't being adjusted. Price was less than $40 if I remember right.

 

[Soundguy]

I imagine -lots- of things would work. I've seen ho-made ones unig 2 diameters of pipe, one slid into the other, with a few holes drilled a couple inches part down the body and a lynch pin on a piece of hay string use to hold it together.. etc...

Soundguy

 

[jinman]

I imagine -lots- of things would work. I've seen ho-made ones unig 2 diameters of pipe, one slid into the other, with a few holes drilled a couple inches part down the body and a lynch pin on a piece of hay string use to hold it together.. etc...

Well now....
I bet that worked better than a turnbuckle. Huh?

 

[Soundguy]

I'll bet when it got a little rusty it was hard to adjust!

Soundguy

 

[daTeacha]

The anti-sway links (?) on my DX29 are a lot like that, but square. I prefer them to the turnbuckles that were on the B7100. Maybe stabilizer bars is a better term for those things that keep your implement from moving side to side but don't carry any weight. They are connected from the lower lift arm to the axle.

 

[djradz]

My personal opinion is that the crank that NH has been using now for several years, and the one shown in the TC31 picture, really sucks. SORRY. But under load, even with mine greased to the point that grease is running out everywhere, it just isn't very useable because it is extremely difficult to turn. Take the load off/rest the implement on the ground, and it's not too bad - but what a hassle. My old Ford 1720 had one very similar but much better. I see Kubota now uses the exact same design as the 1720, so maybe that's why NH tried something different. Unfortuneately, any of these OEM cranks are in the $250 - $400 range.

 

[Soundguy]

As has been said.. I like the older ford ford/NH design cranks..

Soundguy

 

[firemanpat2910]

My 2910 (1989) model has a good crank system, and a great swaybar system. I can measure mine this weekend if you want me too. sorry it cant be sooner but Im recovering from yesterdays trip to the dentist. I had 2 wisdom teeth ripped, torn, jerked,snatched, hammered,drilled and beaten out of my head( at least thats how it felt to me)

 

[AndyMA]

I was going to also say that the crank assembly used on my Ford 1710 or 2120 was excellent. Worked well even with very heavy load on 3pt hitch. You can get it's part numbet from the parts list website from a recent post. I'll bet the one from the 1710 fits without modification.

Andy