Alternative Alternators?

[855Idiot]

Anyone ever tried using a non-factory alternator in their tractor?

I'm talking about an off-the-shelf automotive one?

I'm looking at an ad for $34.95 alternators at the local auto parts chain store
and wondering if that would/could be a substitute for the $200+ JD one?

Any thoughts?
Glenn

 

[MrJimi]

Bring it in and just cross some part numbers over.
I don't think it will work but it's worth a try.. and ask the parts guy to show you the part. It may just be a different angle or something minor like that.
Jim

 

[Mighty Dodge]

Should work ok as long as it puts out enough amps, you wire it up right and get the pulley in proper alignment. Guys convert old 6volt generator tractors to 12 volt alternators all the time.

M.D.

 

[allenr]

Recently fitted a car alternator to my aged Kubota B6100E which only came with a little dynamo.

Had to weld up a base plate which attaches to bolts on the head and fuel injector pump of engine.

Also needed to cut away the bit of the side panel which is hidden anyway when the hood is down.









Modified the jockey pulley on the LHS so it pushes the belt in under the water pump pulley to tighten the belt but at the same time provide more contact with that pulley.

Never posted photos before, I hope they attach and if they appear staight away when the posts page opens, could someone please advise me how it should be done?

 

[Soundguy]

I almost thought this question was a joke at first.

Most of my tractors are antiques.. and came with generators. however.. many have been converted to plain jane delco 10-si alterantors ( 1 wire or 3 wire ).

Just figure out any bracketry that needs to be modified and then go. Many times, if you have a charge lamp on the dash, it can still be used to power the #1 terminal on the alt ( 3 wire setup is prefered ), while #2 wire is looped down to the charge stud, and then the charge stud hit the tractor electrical harness where the old alternators final output went.. etc.

You can get the delco alts from 35a on up to 66a for cheap.. probably other higher amp versions available.

I've had everything from a yanmar, to fords with non factory alts. I got a friend with a JD-B, and a cub with one.

If you can get the belts to match.. and have some common hand tools to make the brackets works.. and you have enough space.. i don't see why it would be a problem..

The only issues I see are witht he units that pickup tach pulses from the alternator.. etc..

soundguy

Anyone ever tried using a non-factory alternator in their tractor?

I'm talking about an off-the-shelf automotive one?

I'm looking at an ad for $34.95 alternators at the local auto parts chain store
and wondering if that would/could be a substitute for the $200+ JD one?

Any thoughts?
Glenn

 

[Labrat]

I put a 50amp internally excited NipponDenso on my 2210. I did have to change some wiring to take the external voltage regulator out of the loop and the dash light works opposite. If I remember the old alternator sent power to the light when not charging and the new alternator grounded the light wire.

 

[dfkrug]

Anyone ever tried using a non-factory alternator in their tractor?

I'm talking about an off-the-shelf automotive one?

I'm looking at an ad for $34.95 alternators at the local auto parts chain store
and wondering if that would/could be a substitute for the $200+ JD one?

Any thoughts?
Glenn

When my stator failed in my 955, I substituted another ND unit, this time
from a Suzuki Samurai. The later Suzis will work, too, but then you have
to swap multi-rib pulleys for the V-groove your 855 uses. Not only do
you get a higher amperage alt out of this, but JD kindly put 2 positions
on their alt bracket to acommodate the slightly larger unit. You don't
even need a different belt.

Before you upgrade, note that you can buy replacement regulators,
rectifiers, and brushes to repair bad alts. Do you know what is wrong
with yours? I have spare working reg and rect.

 

[855Idiot]

I don't know what's bad about it.

My cheezy tester shows no voltage.
The rebuild place that rebuilt it 3.5 years ago,
said it was bad but didn't say what was bad.
I don't think this tractor is really used that much.
I'm thinking it should have lasted longer?

I'm going to another shop today and they said they would tell me if it was the regulator or something else...

Just looked up Samurai Alternators at Checker, they start at $109 rebuilt.

Could my fuel pump solenoid mess up the alternator?
The solenoid was screwed up when I got the tractor.
I have not replaced it, I just tap it forward to kill the engine.

 

[dfkrug]

I don't know what's bad about it.

My cheezy tester shows no voltage.
The rebuild place that rebuilt it 3.5 years ago,
said it was bad but didn't say what was bad.
I don't think this tractor is really used that much.
I'm thinking it should have lasted longer?

I'm going to another shop today and they said they would tell me if it was the regulator or something else...

Just looked up Samurai Alternators at Checker, they start at $109 rebuilt.

Could my fuel pump solenoid mess up the alternator?
The solenoid was screwed up when I got the tractor.
I have not replaced it, I just tap it forward to kill the engine.

The easiest test is to read the voltage at the bat when the engine is
off, then read it when ON. You should get 2-3V higher when ON.

If you can start your engine, your alt may not work if your starter
switch is faulty, a common problem. They get water and dirt in them.

If you are sure the alt is bad and you don't want to fix it, I suggest
an alt from a junk yard. I found one in TX for $35, as I recall. I also
found a local one off a wrecked Suz Sprint.

The solenoid you are referring to is the fuel cut-off solenoid. When it
is giving you probs, the cause is likely to be bad ground connection,
bad starter switch, or one of those pesky safety interlock switches.

 

[855Idiot]

Update!

I had a good-old-boys shop look at the alt.
They said the alt was fine but the regulator was toast.

They charged me $49 to replace & install the regulator.
I thought that would save me a lot of headaches
having the proper alt and knowing it was good.

The tractor now cranks quicker esp. after a restart.

I think this may be the last "bug" to fix.

I put a rubber band on the solenoid to "assist" it when shutting off.
Works fine. It now kills with the Key!
What a concept?

I'm now into this Tractor $500 + a rubberband.

Still smiling,
Glenn

 

[Soundguy]

I know you already got your problem fixed.. but to address one of your questions re: the solenoid killing the alt... not very likely.

Easiest wat to kill an alt is to connect the battery up reverse polarity.. or overload pasts it's thermal duty cycle / dead short it.. etc.

soundguy

 

[855Idiot]

I know you already got your problem fixed.. but to address one of your questions re: the solenoid killing the alt... not very likely.

Easiest wat to kill an alt is to connect the battery up reverse polarity.. or overload pasts it's thermal duty cycle / dead short it.. etc.

soundguy

Thanks,

I got that excuse from the company who rebuilt the Alt. 3.5 years ago?
They were also the one's offering to do it again for $169.
Most of the stuff at the auto stores are guaranteed for as long as you own it.
This tractor has just not had a lot of use in 3.5 years.
If it really had a short, I'd know it by now.

I think I'll keep my eyes open for a Sammi next time I'm out junkyarding...

This board it great!
Glenn

 

[Soundguy]

Your rebuilder telling you that was grasping at straws.. and trying to get out of a warranty rebuild.

I'd take my money elsewhere.. he sounds like a scheister....

Soundguy