Alternator appears to have quit after bath

[GuglioLS]

I need to do a little more research to make sure it will work.

Other than our alternators being mounted 180* apart, looks like your OEM alternator is just like mine, so it should work just fine.

Here is what the GM 12si looks like mounted on my tractor in place of the OEM unit:



I went to an alternator shop and had them install a 2-1/2" dia x 5/8" wide belt pulley on a Delco (GM) 12SI 100 amp 3 wire internal regulator alternator.
Bob Rooks said his OEM pulley fit his Delco, I did not do that because my OEM pulley is 3-1/4" dia, I wanted more RPM's at the alternator shaft so had a 2-1/2" pulley installed instead.

The smaller diameter pulley is necessary to increase RPM of the alternator. The big concern was not burning up the existing wiring with the 100 amps available, or frying the 30 amp, amp meter. The solution was to wire the output of the alternator directly to the battery and not worry about trying to run all that "juice" through the OEM amp meter. With that said the amp meter now only indicated power consumed by the tractor electrics. Any added high power circuits should now be connected to the battery instead of through the switch to protect the tractor wiring.

Basically the OEM alternator was removed, the wires taped off. Then remove the OEM regulator at the fuse block. Install the new alternator & wire the output directly to the battery with 6 ga. wire (through the starter post). Run the +12 ignition wire for the alternator to a new starter switch (that I was wanting to install anyway) Then run the alternator sense wire to the hot line at the fuse block. The OEM Belt was just fine on the new smaller diameter pulley, I was able to tension it with some adjustment left to account for future belt stretch.

Here is the new switch, it's configured so that the glow plugs are activated during the actual starting cycle. It also still has the glow plug pre-heat function as well, in addition to a spare connection to add a dedicated ignition wire to the new alternator.



Here is the new alternator with some detail of the wires installed:




Larry

P.S. Bob, that belt guard is the OEM unit, I removed it to install the Delco alternator.

 

[GuglioLS]

I took some voltage readings to make sure everything is wired correctly and to test the alternator's output at various engine RPM's

The battery voltage with the engine off:




The voltage with the engine between 600 & just below 900 RPM and all the lights on max. Even at Idle it is putting out enough current to supply all the lights & apply a moderate charge the battery:

[


Here is the voltage just above 900 RPM all the way through 2000 RPM with all the lights on:




Some might say 14.92 volts is going to fry my battery. It's been like this for over a year, the battery is three years old now and so far it has not fried the battery or caused any other problems, so you can't argue with success
Well I have to say my lights are now brighter than ever, the Tach is rock solid stable - No more flickering with the brakes or the "blinker flicker". And I can install my 2000 watt inverter directly to the battery - (I will only use about 1200 watts out of it at maximum.)

Well the picture says "For Sale" but too late, it's been gone over a year now.



I still need to install an analog volt meter. I have one, just have not taken the time to install it.

Hope this dispels the myth that a Delco alternator cannot be used on a tractor because the RPM's are too low. Don't take my word for it, I have a witness, just ask WC Rob (3RRL).

I live where it gets hot in the summer ~ high 90's and cold in the winter minus 15. No problem with battery or starting the tractor.

EC Rob - I hope this helps.


Larry

 

[timwil]

GuglioLs what switch did you use, mine has gone bad a i need to replace it. Thanks

 

[GuglioLS]

Below is a link to the Starter / "Ignition" switch, with Preheat and preheat in starter position, it's the one I used:

FARMERLINK -- FORD TRACTOR PARTS 10/26/07



Part# A-E7NN11N501AB 14.03 + 9.00 shipping 23.09 total. Scroll to the bottom of the web page I linked to, then find part# A-E7NN11N501AB

It's a five position switch - Off, Aux, Aux+lights, GlowPlugs, GlowPlugs+Start.
It automaticaly spring returns back to Aux+Lights when released from the glowplugs or glowplugs+Start position. It's the perfect switch (IMHO)

Larry

 

[3RRL]

Larry,
You're going to need another trip out to my place to install all that stuff on my tractor.
I still have all the stuff you gave me, including that super nice electrical tool supply kit, heater wires, fuses, switches...everything.

I'll make you a set of Quick Connect Gauge wheels in trade?
Thanks,
WC Rob-

 

[GuglioLS]

I'll make you a set of Quick Connect Gauge wheels in trade?

Rob,
Are you kidding me? a set of 3RRL precision Quick Connect Gauge wheels? no way. I must be dreaming, did I read that right? somebody pinch me. Thank you for the invitation and truly generous offer, I cannot refuse. OK your on, I will be getting the better deal (again) let's set a date. I have some pocket change saved up for airfare. I was wanting to come out and see your Log home progress anyway. After all the tractor mods, were going to build your outhouse too, right?

Larry

 

[zogman]

Thanks Larry for all the great info. I wanted to research what you posted so you saved me a lot of time. I did find some good prices on the alternators. I found a 63A unit with a lifetime warranty for $53 at AutoZone.com - Get in the Zone!

Part # DL7127-9M

and a good general info site about alternators.

Catalog

Tommorrow I will do the real troubleshooting on the system and buy an alternator if needed. I think I will buy one anyway because I want to add a couple of flood lights too.

Thanks again for all the great posts, I even needed a new key because one of mine broke off!

Thanks - EC Rob

 

[timwil]

Larry thanks for the info, i will order one tonight

 

[GuglioLS]

EC Rob, Timwil
I'm pleased you found the info useful. The switch is heavy duty and the key is really thick and will not break. I broke my OEM key off too (smacking into it with my knee) of course the tractor was running. I used a screwdriver for a while before I broke down and replaced the switch. How did you guys break yours?

A 63 amp alternator with lifetime warranty for 53 bucks is a good deal for sure. I went to the Autozone link you supplied and entered in the part# DL7127-9. I don't see any specs for it? like does it have a built in voltage regulator? is it a one wire unit? or a three wire unit like the one I used?
Make sure it has it's own built-in internal regulator. Oh and don't forget to get a connector for it if it's a three wire unit, AZ should have a connector.

Larry

 

[zogman]

Quick update...The problem is definitely the voltage regulator. I jumped the circuit at the regulator since I had voltage at one wire and none at the other and the alternator kicked on. The alternator kicked up to 14.5 V @ 1000 RPM, 12.5 @ idle. I let it charge a little while, I now have to make a decision...New all inclusive alternator or go easy and cheaper by getting the regulator from Chip!