Alternator wiring....

[StevenPaul]

ok, this is what I've configured so far; for a negative ground system, see also the attachment,

battery cable to (-) ground
battery cable (+) to starter motor, then
one wire from the alternator to (+) battery post,
coil wire (-) to coil resistor to I(ignition) prong on starter switch, and then finally, a wire from the starter motor to the B(battery) prong on the starter switch. Does this sound right?

All the other electrical will come later, the lights, gauges, etc.

and F is for fuel gauge

thanks again for the help,
Steve

 

[Farwell]

Steve,
From the ignition switch to the starter I have a relay that I think is designed to take the high current switching that may help with protecting the solenoid contacts. Am not positive if that is what it is for but think that it may be. Also not sure if it is necessary or how much it helps.
Sounds like you have pretty much got the wiring figured out. I am going to print out your diagram and check it against my 2010 wiring. It may be tomorrow before I get back to you.
Farwell

 

[HonourMe]

The engine starts on 12 volts and runs on 6 volts through the ballast resistor. To get 12 volts to the coil for starting, you run a wire from the starter solenoid to the positive terminal on the ignition coil. This wire should only be energized when the ignition switch is in the start position and the starter is cranking. When the ignition switch returns to the run position, then this wire will not have any current flowing to the coil and the coil will only be supplied with power through the ballast resistor. Using a test light, check the terminals on the solenoid to establish which one to use. It should only have power when the starter is cranking. The reason for this is the ignition points cannot handle the higher voltage and amperage. I suggest that you check your points to make sure that they haven't been damaged from your prior use without the resistor. The ballast resistor is usually fed through the ignition switch so when the ignition is turned off, there is no current flowing to the coil. The ignition points complete the circuit for the ignition coil and turn the power on and off to the coil. When the power to the coil is turned off, the high voltage that is built up in the coil is directed to the distributor and then to each spark plug in turn. If power is left on to the coil when the engine isn't running it will drain the battery

The "F" terminal on the ignition switch is a hot lead to the field terminal of the voltage regulator. On a single wire alternator system, this terminal isn't used. The "F" terminal originally went to the field terminal of the voltage regulator.

 

[StevenPaul]

thanks Farwell, I look forward to your findings.

And HonourMe, I will check the points and do the test light thing. I think I understand what you mean by the test. Is there any particular test light I should be using?

Steve

 

[HonourMe]

The test light should be one that has a 12 volt bulb and a tip that you place on the wire that you are checking. The other connection is a wire to ground. DO NOT use a battery operated test light. Those are used for another purpose. Most automotive testing is done with the type that I have described. You can purchase it at a auto parts store for a few dollars or buy a super duper one from Snap-On for about $25. Both will work just as well, and the only difference is in the quality of the parts. I don't believe that you need the fanciest one available. You can actually make one out of a 12 volt bulb and pigtail socket. Just extend the wires and put two clips on the ends of the wires. Clip one wire to ground and use the other to clip onto the terminal or to just touch the terminal. If you go looking for on in the auto department, they are commonly known as "Continuity Tester".

 

[skipmarcy]

You've got your coil leads reversed - the negative terminal from the coil goes to the distributor - the points make the ground. The Positive terminal on the coil should be getting the power from the ignition switch via the ballast resistor as well as the wire from the starter solenoid or relay that has the 12v when starter is engaged. And yes, the "F" terminal stands for field - leave it empty with your current altenator. The "ign" terminal usually will feed other items that you want power to with the key on, not just the ignition system, be sure these items are fused and have your fuses as close to the switch as possible to protect as much of the wiring as possible - a simple inline fuseholder will work.

 

[StevenPaul]

ok, stuck again, back to square one, and all that "in a day's work and accomplish nothing" stuff. I tried wiring the tractor as I posted and as a few of you have suggested and zip, nada, zero. I did get smoke and a really nice orange glow from the resistor though. The little resistor lookin thing on the ignition switch started smokin too. I tried several combinations and after it all, we end up with where we began, wired the way we had and having to jump start it every time and then there's the hydraulic fluid comin out the steering wheel when it gets cranked up and runnin. So all was not lost, found another problem, had my dog growl at me, and scared my son with an occasional turn of the switch while he was doing the test light thing. Funny, I don't remember being able to jump that high when I was 16. What I think I might do is take some pictures and post them and see if any of you can tell me what I'm doing or wiring wrong. All I want for christmas is for my tractor to start with a key. And as you can tell I'm probably going to be pickin y'alls brains on some hydraulic questions... but that's another day.

 

[HonourMe]

Don't know what type of ignition switch you are using, but that might be part of the problem. Go to the auto parts store and buy a generic replacement ignition switch. A good choice is a Cole Hersee brand switch. They have a website with wiring schematics that will help you get it right the first time. If you overheated the ballast resistor, you might have burned it out. It shouldn't get that hot. It also might be wrong for the application. A good auto parts counter man should be able to help you with this.

 

[Soundguy]

Wow.. not sure what happened.. but don't think you actually got it wired as directed.

Break down the circuits individually. First ignition.. + to switch.. then from ignition side of switch to ballast resistor.. then from there to coil + from coil - to distrib.

If your ballast resistor died, try crossing an 8ne10306 it is a generic 12to6v converting resistor used on many fords.

After that.. tackly the starter circuit.. it will be the momentary contact on the ig nition switch, to the solenoid.

Then tackle charge cuircuit.. etc.

Soundguy

 

[StevenPaul]

Well, I think we're narrowing it down. Bought a new switch (generic) and a new internal resistor coil and things looked and sounded better but still having to jump start. We checked the alternator by using that test light. We took the wire off from the alternator to the battery and started the motor and then put the test light clip to ground and then the end of the test light pointer to where the wire goes on alternator and no light. Is this a correct way for testing an alternator? Also in doing some research, I found that I need to check to see if I have a negative ground alternator, how do I do this? And seems like I read somewhere where the alternator has to have a minimum of 1200 rpms to kick in or something, is this true? Can I put a tachometer or some kind of rpm gauge on the tractor? All in all, things are looking better though, thanks again for y'alls help.

Steve