Aluminum SxS (UTV) trailer thoughts and questions?

Code54 · May 16, 2015

I been starting the process of looking to buy a new trailer for us to mainly use to tow my SxS's to trail heads to go riding. I have looked at steel trailers, 6x10' well built for $1499, a galvanized 6x10 for $1550 or 6x12 for $1650 and now an aluminum with pressure treated bed- 6x12 for $2200. I know the power coated steel one will eventually rust and need some extra care over the years. The galvanized one should last a lot better but is heaver (around 950lbs). That leaves the Alum. one, weights about 550lbs and should stay nice for years. I was originally thinking I just wanted a 6x10 so I can haul my Pioneer 500 to the trails but with the 6x12 I could also use the trailer to carry our Mule FXT if I wanted to take it somewhere. We have a 18' 12K trailer (weighs 2200lbs) for hauling the big tractor but also could use the "new" one to move our BX in some cases. I am also thinking that down the road I may do some landscaping work on the side so the trailer may come in handy for that also.
I am pretty well sold on the Alum. one but does anyone see any issues with that logic or the Alum. ones in general?

Will_C · May 17, 2015

I had a 6x12 aluminum for 11 years. I sold it for $200 less than I paid for it. I replaced with a 18' aluminum trailer 5 years. I have heard people say they don't like them because they can crack and they are difficult to repair. I've never had that problem. I have been happy with my 2.

Will

Mysfyt · May 17, 2015

I've been in the metal fab business for over 30 years and this is my take on aluminum vs steel: use aluminum to save weight and use stainless to stay looking good. If they salt the roads where you live, it won't take long to make your aluminum trailer look dull plus corrode around the steel bolts. As far as cracking goes, aluminum won't yield like steel will (I'm assuming the trailer is made out of 6061 and not an aircraft grade) but if you don't overload it, you will be fine. I know a stainless trailer is not an option, but just want to give you a little food for thought for your decision.

Code54 · May 17, 2015

Thanks!
Is there a "good" wash for alum. to bring it back to like new looking?

Code54 · May 17, 2015

Thanks!
Is there a "good" wash for alum. to bring it back to like new looking?

Mysfyt · May 17, 2015

Maybe consider having it clear coated with an automotive grade paint. Somebody who works in that biz might be able to recommend a good product.

Sparky67 · May 18, 2015

I recently purchased an ALUMA 20' Aluminum Tilt n Load with hydraulic cushion. Put heavy duty axels on it and love this trailer. What a beautiful trailer, light and easy to move around. Great to back up and incredibly simple to load and un-load. Highly recommend it. I run a Kubota L6060 and it is perfect for my needs. As far as a clear coat, any automotive grade clear would suffice. I build robotic paint systems mainly for the Automotive and am thinking of getting mine coated as well to protect it. Just make sure it is very clean before you get it sprayed. otherwise you will have an adhesion problem down the road.

bdog · May 18, 2015

I once looked at aluminum trailers and couldn't find any with the wheel sizes I wanted. I don't care if I am buying a trailer to haul I riding lawn mower I want 16" wheels. I find the tires last so much longer and the heavier spindles and bearings last longer as well.

Other than that nothing wrong with aluminum.

Diamondpilot · May 18, 2015

I deal with aluminum and own one. It's had just as many if not more issues than my two steel ones.

First, they corrode and get a white chalk residue.

Second, the grounds for lights can be a major pain.

Lastly, they still use quite a bit of steel in critical areas. Axles, suspension, bolts, ect.

I don't think I will ever own another.

It's my least favorite of my 3 trailers. It's a 12K trailer. My two steel ones are 7K and 18K.

Chris

oliver1555 · May 20, 2015

The grounds for lights can be a major pain.

Using the frame for grounding is one of the major shortcuts trailer manufacturers choose. If you want dependable lighting and braking, never ground to the frame. A high quality wiring job will have a dedicated ground wire that runs from the back of the trailer, through the plug to the tow vehicle. The ground on the tow vehicle should run to the negative side of the battery. All grounds from lights, brakes, and the breakaway battery should tie to the ground wire and all connections should be protected with adhesive shrink tube or junction boxes. Any exposed connection to the frame is a potential problem with corrosion, getting broken loose, etc. Aluminum just compounds the problem.