Always Improving: My NX
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DieselBound
Elite Member
Harvesting by the silverly light of the LEDs? 
Thanks for sharing!
I bought cameras and a monitor (tractor not yet here) but had to send the monitor back as it was defective
How bad are the stock lights? My B7800's lights were described as being worse than those on an Amish buggy. :laughing: I found this to be more than true: the bean-counters clearly were in charge when it came to the lights (they should have been forced to operate one of these tractors at night, for several hours and for several days)! It was a no-brainer to add lights. Wife was telling me that she didn't want me working at night- of course, this all changed and she's accepted that it was an essential thing to do: final straw was when I ran home from work one day at dusk to track down someone out on the property, had a head lamp on [my head]! If I need to upgrade on my NX I should have no argument from my wife: well, there's never any argument, but...
Thanks for sharing!
I bought cameras and a monitor (tractor not yet here) but had to send the monitor back as it was defective
How bad are the stock lights? My B7800's lights were described as being worse than those on an Amish buggy. :laughing: I found this to be more than true: the bean-counters clearly were in charge when it came to the lights (they should have been forced to operate one of these tractors at night, for several hours and for several days)! It was a no-brainer to add lights. Wife was telling me that she didn't want me working at night- of course, this all changed and she's accepted that it was an essential thing to do: final straw was when I ran home from work one day at dusk to track down someone out on the property, had a head lamp on [my head]! If I need to upgrade on my NX I should have no argument from my wife: well, there's never any argument, but...
holeycow
Gold Member
The lights will be barely adequate if they still have the halogens...
I can just barely make-do haying in the dark with my dk90 and it has 4 on the cab and two in the hood. The baler is close enough behind that the rear lights are ok, but could definately be improved too.
If I didn't know my fields and what a swath looks like in the dark I would be hooped. I was researching lights a bit this spring but never followed through....
Tractors should have really good lights. Many do not. I think Kioti fits in the do not category. I noticed the newest, biggest Kioti's have led's (PX 1053, etc.). So they are coming along. Slowly.
I would plan on lights.
I can just barely make-do haying in the dark with my dk90 and it has 4 on the cab and two in the hood. The baler is close enough behind that the rear lights are ok, but could definately be improved too.
If I didn't know my fields and what a swath looks like in the dark I would be hooped. I was researching lights a bit this spring but never followed through....
Tractors should have really good lights. Many do not. I think Kioti fits in the do not category. I noticed the newest, biggest Kioti's have led's (PX 1053, etc.). So they are coming along. Slowly.
I would plan on lights.
These are pics of the hood lights which are better than the halogen work lights, but obscured by the FEL at drive height. I didn't get a pic of the OEM work lights before replacing them but I wasn't able to make out terrain as well as I wanted.
That's too bad about the monitor, but better identified before you installed it than after. I've learned my lesson by not function checking everything before installation. With the LEDs front/back and rearview camera I invested about $170 and 4 hours. The camera took 3.5 and each light 5-7 minutes. All were worthwhile investments.
That's too bad about the monitor, but better identified before you installed it than after. I've learned my lesson by not function checking everything before installation. With the LEDs front/back and rearview camera I invested about $170 and 4 hours. The camera took 3.5 and each light 5-7 minutes. All were worthwhile investments.
DieselBound
Elite Member
I was concerned with putting LEDs on my B7800 as that tractor gets brutalized. Back when I put on the lights LEDs were a fair bit more expensive and the thought of breaking them steered me away: I had to install an alternator (tractor came stock with dynamos- yeah, really!) in order to get enough power (LEDs wouldn't have required this, but it's nice to have more alternator output) The lights I have, plain old tractor lights, put out a lot of light. The headlights on my Polaris (halogens) are horrible, if you face them- they're insanely intense! (and in my cars I'm running FOUR 65w "Off Road" halogens- lots of back road driving)
Anyway, I'm anxious to be able to see (pardon the pun) first hand (read: finally get my tractor!) what the lighting is like. I'll check back with you on what lights you went with (and on any tips on installation). After my new garage is built I'll be able to do upgrades like this based on time permitting rather than based on time AND weather (this time of the year it's hard to get the weather to cooperate).
Can you talk about the mount there with the monitor?
Anyway, I'm anxious to be able to see (pardon the pun) first hand (read: finally get my tractor!) what the lighting is like. I'll check back with you on what lights you went with (and on any tips on installation). After my new garage is built I'll be able to do upgrades like this based on time permitting rather than based on time AND weather (this time of the year it's hard to get the weather to cooperate).
Can you talk about the mount there with the monitor?
MinnesotaEric
Super Member
I swapped out my stock lights with 36W LED Flood lights and in the winter frequently work into the wee hours burning or plowing. One thing I've learned from the LED lights on my truck and tractor is the human eye needs yellow light in order to "see" depth perception and objects. The LED light, while better than stock isn't as good as I had hoped given the sheer amount of light coming out. I also added side lights as well. Anyway, if anybody knows of LED lights like what we've installed only at 4500-5000 degrees kelvin instead of the 6500 degrees in the photo below, l'd like to try them out.
DieselBound
Elite Member
Eric, I hadn't really done that much research into LEDs, but I learned a lot when researching HIDs (car retrofit). Here are few things that people are probably not cognizant of:
1) PROJECTION = sending light output AHEAD of you; with slower moving vechicles it's not as key (I believe that it becomes an issue when you're traveling at and above 30 mph);
2) Light in the higher Kelvin spectrum scatter more in the presence of water vapors (or particulate matter);
3) More light right around you means that your pupils shrink and are less capable of picking up light further out (HIDs w/o projectors actually make visibility WORSE)- I think that this is what "snow blindness is about" (though I can't say that I'm all that familiar with snow like others are).
1) PROJECTION = sending light output AHEAD of you; with slower moving vechicles it's not as key (I believe that it becomes an issue when you're traveling at and above 30 mph);
2) Light in the higher Kelvin spectrum scatter more in the presence of water vapors (or particulate matter);
3) More light right around you means that your pupils shrink and are less capable of picking up light further out (HIDs w/o projectors actually make visibility WORSE)- I think that this is what "snow blindness is about" (though I can't say that I'm all that familiar with snow like others are).
MinnesotaEric
Super Member
Overly bright is wrecking night vision? what you say makes some sense as the "yellow" HIDs on my Infini throw out every bit as usable light as my F150 with its high beams on and a 30" LED light bar.
DieselBound
Elite Member
Think fog lights. They're meant to "focus" on a couple things:
1) Cast light out and down toward the sides of the roadway to pick up fog lines;
2) Operate in the lower Kelvin range (yellow-ish), which tends to scatter less (and cause "snow blindness"- consider that if you have your high beams on and hit a bank of fog your first reaction is to kill the high beams!).
When you're running in fog you should be running MUCH slower and cautiously. Fog lights aren't really made to help you necessarily drive faster, just safer (keep you on the road).
If you need a lot of light scattered around you then non-projected lights are great. I do know that an LED work light that I have is blinding and that I have trouble getting it to spot the areas that I am concentrating on: keep in mind that this is all happening outside (no buildings to work in) and in different weather- meaning that I'm already a little edgy, so any slight shortcomings I tend to amplify!
DieselBound
Elite Member
DieselBound
Elite Member
Just wanting to follow up on my question about the mounting of your monitor. I hadn't realized that that cowling/shroud piece (covers the wiper mechanism) is there atop the instrument cluster. It looks like you just screwed the monitor mounting bracket right to that piece, yes? (or through-bolted?) How is that holding up? I've heard folks mention that they didn't use the monitor's mounting piece feeling that it wasn't secure enough: not sure why they felt this way. That mounting there looks nice and clean to me: I was fearing that mounting one in that area would be obstructing my view, but looking at your picture, and now having my tractor, I can see that nothing is obstructed and that this is the most logical place to put the monitor.
comancheflight
Gold Member
Mine is mounted the same way. Very sturdy, clean looking, no wires showing and no head turning to see it...I like it
DieselBound
Elite Member
Did you through-bolt it? If so, how does that wiper cowling come off? And... is the monitor mount holding up to vibrations and such, doesn't limp/flop down or anything?
EDIT: DUH! That cowling is molded into the dash.
Last edited:
comancheflight
Gold Member
Just used the screws for plastic. Drilled a small pilot hole then screwed it in. The cowl is just held on with a few bolts. I just loosened it enough to run wires. 10 minute job for that part.
I think I posted about this in your thread but here it is again. Yes, mounted it to the console top with some self tapping screws. I used the adhesive pad that came with it as a shock absorber without taking the sticky cover off so it wouldn't adhere to the dash. 3 10mm bolts to loosen the console cover. There's enough play in it without having to disconnect the instruments, but in my case I did for precaution. I ran the cable down the left side and under the floor mat through the cable channel with the factory wires and up into the left side where the fuse box is. Connected everything there in the left side with a fuse tap and grounded the negative under the bolt that fastens the fuse box down. I connected the camera to the monitor directly with a salvaged rca cable. 6' was plenty, so I still have the 10' I ordered to add another camera should the need arise.
Mounted the camera to the right side marker light supports and ran the cable through the same rubber boot and down inside the right fender cover, across the back and into the the left fender into the fuse box. In all the work time was about 2.5 hours. I took my time and was maticulous with the install.
DieselBound
Elite Member
Many thanks! Definitely takes the guess work out for me. I'm going to mount two cameras (Esky), one in the rear (as dead center as I can get it) and one in the front (also dead center- for pallet fork work). Hoping that my replacement monitor isn't DOA like the first! And, well... I need to get my tractor back before I can install:laughing:
:banghead: got my WR Long UltraJaw 72 finally. It was delivered Wednesday actually but finally got to mount it and run it through its usability. However, during my function checks I rolled the buck down just to find out that the hydraulic hoses are too short. Ended up pulling a fitting loose and spraying a bit of fluid everywhere. Contacted the dealer, said they'll send up whatever length I tell them I need when they deliver my flail mower next week.
DieselBound
Elite Member
What's the latest on the loader?
Holy smokes has it been a busy fall. So, the dealer did all the measurements as per requested by the engineers at the factory. He said the measurements are within normal parameters, and that they would have to come pick it up and take it back to dig into it deeper. I've been using it steadily the last few weeks, and just need to finish up a few small projects to relinquish it to the dealer. I was running the FEL loader today and took notice that when I roll the bucket all the way down the right sight side will reach its full stop with another 1" or so more of travel after the left side. That would lead me to believe the mount point for the cylinder on that side is mounted further down than the left. Anyhow, I should be done with my chores this weekend and will have them come pick it up next week. Here's some of what I've been up to.
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