Amending Clay Soil - cheaply?

[PBinWA]

What's the cheapest way to amend clay soil for a new lawn.

I recently re-did an area of my property and the clay soil is really hard for the new grass. We are having some hot dry weather and I am doing a lot of watering. The area I did is not as important to me as the area I am about to do so now I'm looking for advice.

The soil is pretty heavy and has some pockets of real clay in it that will be tilled up with what "dirt" is available.

I have access to lots of aged horse poop and was thinking of spreading that around. I'm aware of the weed seed factor but think I can control that later with weed killer. I think it would ultimately be nice to mix in peat moss but that might be too expensive for the area I want to do.

Does sand help clay soil or is it better to stick with organic matter?

Can anyone recommend any other low cost methods to improve the quality of bad soil?

 

[LabLuvR]

I live in an area where all we have is clay. Not a bad thing really. Everything from my lawn to my deer food plots does really well. Not sure why you think you have a problem.

 

[Bob_Skurka]

I've been told Granular Gypsum is what should be used to lighten up clay soil but I've not used it and I don't know what quantities it would have to be applied in. I suppose you till it in?

 

[jeffinsgf]

The addition of both organic material and sand will help. Also, look for a product called "ClayBuster" (I think -- there are several differen brands). It is a small bottle of liquid that you screw onto a garden hose and spray on the clay heavy soil. It breaks the clay down and lets the other components mix in more thoroughly. I used it twice a year for two years on a residential lot, and it really made a difference. About $30 bucks for enough to do 5000 square feet.

 

[beenthere]

Years ago, a friend of mine changed the soil in his yard from clay, by adding and tilling in several layers of sawdust, along with a fair amount of nitrogen to breakdown the sawdust. He managed to turn his clay yard into a beautiful lawn. Your horse manure idea probably would add a lot of organic matter to the clay as well. Need to watch what sawdust you get, I suppose.
Finding a soils person to help, maybe at the USDA extension office or University, may be a lot of help too.

 

[PBinWA]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I live in an area where all we have is clay. Not a bad thing really. Everything from my lawn to my deer food plots does really well. Not sure why you think you have a problem. )</font>

After three days of 80 degree weather and some strong gorge winds the surface of the dirt is hard and crusty. I'm going to be seeding this area "late" so I need to prevent the crust from preventing the grass seed to grow.

Of course, I also don't claim to know what I am doing.

I'm going to check out the Clay Buster stuff - that looks like something I could afford to try.

Thanks,

Paul

 

[Highbeam]

When you mix sand with clay and then dry it you get bricks. I don't think you want to do that.

I can't believe you're already irrigating in this 3 day heat wave. We are supposed to pass 100 here in the foothills.

I also have clay on my 15 acre piece. We are trying to get the surface wet spots to dry out now so that the county won't find a wetland before logging. Once dried and underdrained I need to find a solution to turning the blue/grey clay to soil just as you are. The problem I see with the clay isn't so much a lack of nutrients as a water problem. Whether it is dry and hard or soft and gooey, water doesn't pass through. The grass roots won't penetrate since there is nothing down there for them. We need to make the clay more permeable. Sand isn't the answer because of the brick problem. Organic matter is the way to go. Sawdust, horse poo, or peat would be great sources of duff to lighten the clay and allow water to get through. The water will then sit on top of the underlying clay but at least there will be a root zone.

That is my plan since the organic material is pretty available.

I had considered getting a slash grinder type machine to grind my slash into a huge pile of shredded wood. This shredded wood could be spread and tilled in for the organics. Problem is that the grinder and labor is much more expensive than a huge burn.

 

[jeffinsgf]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( When you mix sand with clay and then dry it you get bricks. I don't think you want to do that. )</font>

When you mix straw (organic matter) with clay you get adobe bricks. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Sorry, I don't seem to follow your logic. The sand in a brick isn't there to make it harder, it is to extend it (I think). You mix enough sand and organic matter into clay, it will start transmitting water. I've done it.

 

[Holzster]

If you mix sand with clay it will seperate over time. If you add organic matirial that will work, but unless you keep adding it (top dressing is OK) that to will leave you with compacted clay only.
Texas A&M have done a lot of research on this & I have gone to some classes - they say that only one thing can help it "long tem" 7 that is to **** Expanded Shale & till it in.
But after saying all that you should still add compost to top dress it.
If a person till the clay (3-4 inches) added compost (3-4 inches) & tilled it together, then arrated it regularly & kept top dressing it that will work.
But the easy long tem would be to add Expanded Shale to the clay.
Hope this helps.

tracy

 

[RonR]

We have clay to difficult you can't dig it with a shovel most of the time. For 20 years, I've tried applying granular gypsum per the landscape guy's recommendation. Haven't notice much difference.

If you mixed a LOT of sand in, it might work, but short of a LOT, you end up with concrete like stuff.

Two yrs ago, our backyard was messed up from removing a swimming pool. We tilled it, fertilized, and planted fescue. So so on the results.

A buddy suggested adding composted zoo doo! We added about 3 cu yards over 3 weekends to the whole yard. Just hand spread it with shovels and then racked it down a little. Most places, we had it over an inch deep. Then we overseeded with a verticutter. Then watered the heck out of it.

My yard is the best on the block now. I mow it about 4" tall and it's like thick shag carpet. It holds water much nicers now, and helps shade itself.

Before, when walking across it, it was like walking on cement. Now, it's springy even where the grass is short.

If you look at any ag college website, they list adding composted organic stuff to fix almost all ailments in lawns. I had to haul and spread mine, but at $20 a yard it was CHEAP.

I might top dress it next fall with a yard or two. I'm sold on it.

Best wishes.
ron