Anchoring a wall to a floor with radiant heat

[brandoro]

I agree with Curly Dave. Get rid of the paint in the strip where the wall(s) will go.
Bob

Me too. Construction adhesive will hold a wall better than nails. IMHO.
BIL moved a wall once that had the bottom plate glued down to heated concrete floor. The wall had only been there a day or so but didn't work out. The bottom plate came off in little pieces.

 

[lilranch2001]

I would remove the paint with paint stripper and a wire brush, and then use epoxy to put down a PT mud sill.

It doesn't have to be a hand-held wire brush. One of the ones that goes on a 4 1/2 inch grinder would work admirably.

good idea, but.....
PT lumber is typically very wet. It takes a while to dry out, so you may want to get it in a dry space for a few weeks before trying to adhere it to the floor with epoxy,

I moisture cure urethane may be a better way to go

 

[Robert_in_NY]

good idea, but.....
PT lumber is typically very wet. It takes a while to dry out, so you may want to get it in a dry space for a few weeks before trying to adhere it to the floor with epoxy,

I moisture cure urethane may be a better way to go

Try to get PT lumber to stay straight if left to dry loose. They twist and turn bad

 

[jvacura]

When I built my garage I used PL200 to secure the bottom sill plates for my walls where I framed up a couple of rooms. I didn't want to risk putting any type of anchors into my floor and hitting my PEX. I made the mistake of adding glue to the sill where the door was going to be. When I came to cut out that section it was near impossible to remove. If I remember correctly, there was a lot of wood left on the floor when I got that section removed. So, My vote is to strip the paint and glue it down. It won't go anywhere.

 

[fish6942]

Lots of great suggestions here (I knew I came to the right place)!! I'm the second owner so no pictures of the tubing.

Any idea where in a 4" slab the tubing normally goes? Half way?

I should have mentioned that I do plan to use construction adhesive but I also think I'll take the advice given here and strip away the paint first.

 

[JeffInCO]

Usually, a radiant slab is done with rebar or wire mesh sitting on top of a foam insulating layer, with PEX tubing tied to the top of the rebar or wire. This would place the tubing approximately in the middle of the slab.

In my case, I used a product called Crete Heat, which is 2" foam with molded knobs to hold the pex. In this case, the pex ends up at the bottom of the slab, above the crete heat, with reinforcing above the pex.

Jeff

 

[rkeith]

Locate the loops in the floor and then use a hammer drill to drill a 1/4" hole through the bottom plate and into the concrete with a masonry bit. Then drive two 16 penny nails at once into the hole to secure it to the floor. Your fire dept may have a thermal imaging camera. If so they may come do it just to show some new guys how it works at detecting heat.

 

[KubotainNH]

Rough it up and glue it like others mentioned. I have radiant in my house and I know some of the pipes ended up floating up a bit in the basement so not as low in the slab as I would like. You didn't build it so it's a crap shoot. I'd be unwilling to take that gamble.

 

[DanD78]

Locate the loops in the floor and then use a hammer drill to drill a 1/4" hole through the bottom plate and into the concrete with a masonry bit. Then drive two 16 penny nails at once into the hole to secure it to the floor. Your fire dept may have a thermal imaging camera. If so they may come do it just to show some new guys how it works at detecting heat.

A donation will help this as well...

Dan

 

[Gary Fowler]

If you are in a dry location, no need for pressure treated, just go with No. 1 white pine for floor plate as the white pine doesnt twist and draw like pressure treated yellow pine. Follow Daves advice to remove the paint and rough up the concrete a bit, then construction adhesive applied in an S pattern where the wood will lay. You will have to devise some way to hold it down tight while it dries. If possible, build the whole wall section, then raise it into place and wedge it down tightly and walk away for a day or two to let it cure. That should hold for a lifetime.