Angle of attack for bucket

   / Angle of attack for bucket #1  

Haywire

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Joined
Nov 20, 2010
Messages
1,025
Location
Central Kentucky
Tractor
Tractorless :(
Total equipment newbie here. I was out this morning using the bucket on the new BX2660 and am having mixed results. I'm moving dirt from a pile that has been sitting for a few years, it's well settled and has grass growing on it. Once (just once) it cut right in and got a nice scoop, but the rest of the time it seems to struggle.

Anyone have some tips on operating a bucket in hard dirt? Keep in mind, I'm not trying to dig a hole, just take a mound down to level.

thanks,
Ian
 
   / Angle of attack for bucket #2  
You really should buy and install (easy, two bolts) a 7-tooth tooth bar. Life with the bucket will become 1000 percent easier and more versatile after that, and you won't ding up the cutting edge on the bucket. Mine is from Iowa Farm Equipment and I really like it, but lots of folks sell good ones including Gator Attachments and Everything Attachments. Just get a heavy duty version with pinned (i.e. easily replaceable) teeth. Stay away from the cheaper ones.

While waiting for the tooth bar to arrive, try a very slow approach and slowly curl up the bucket at the same time once the blade contacts the pile. You can also pull up close, raise the bucket and curl it down to vertical, and lower the cutting edge into the pile while backing up slowly. Sometimes that will break the crust enough to get things started.

A tooth bar will make this problem go away.
 

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   / Angle of attack for bucket #3  
When it's old clumpy dirt, it helps to have a toothbar (the teeth to apply more pressure points rather then spread across the width of a bucket edge).
The other thing is to have plenty of ballast on the 3PH to ensure plenty of traction.

If you don't have a toothbar, I suggest you break up that outer crust with a pick. That pile might be a bit softer once through the crust.

Loaders are great for loose stuff such as mulch and freshly piled dirt. Once that stuff dries out, it can be tough.

Good luck
 
   / Angle of attack for bucket #4  
It does take time to get the hang of things.

But dont try attacking the bottom of the pile with a level bucket.

As mentioned, onceyou are started into the pile just a little bit, pull the joystick straight towards you while you continue forward. This will raise and curl back at the same time. Instead of trying to take a big bite out of the bottom, this will get you started and let you "shave" a layer off the outside on your way up.

I have done just fine without a tooth bar so I cant comment on that as I dont have one (but would like to build one).

Another important thing here is rear ballast. What do yo have on the 3PH for weight?? Kubotas are light. I have my doubts at the effectiveness of even a tooth bar without sufficent counterweight. And rear blades usually arent heavy enough IMO for heavy loader work. Try throwing on your heaviest implement (box blade or bushhog would work) and try again. (Assuming you didn't have anything out back before)
 
   / Angle of attack for bucket #5  
Good Morning Ian,

The angle of attack refers to the degree of the incline that a mining scoop

or (LHD-load haul dump) encounters a mine slope directly from horizontal.


In order to remove your dirt pile with a loose materials gathering bucket you

have understand that the geometry of the loose materials bucket has a huge

surface area in contact with an immovable object which is the dirt and that

the tractor does not have the mass or power to physically move the pile in its

present form(if it did all the weld would be broken and the bucket torn up).



What is happening to you is what happens to everyone who owns a machine with a loose materials bucket that is attempting to move dense material that has been compacted by gravity, time, and water-rain fall.


You will have to be happy with simply slicing bits of the pile off with the bucket on the ground and either using the left side or right side and working from one side to the other
a few inches at a time, and in this way you will not weaken the welds of the bucket, and eventally break them at the lower cutting edge corners.
 
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   / Angle of attack for bucket
  • Thread Starter
#6  
You really should buy and install (easy, two bolts) a 7-tooth tooth bar.

I'll look into it... It's got less than 2 hours on the meter though, so I'm not too revved about drilling holes in the bucket just yet. :)

What do yo have on the 3PH for weight??

Nothing at the moment, don't have any 3ph attachments. I got the dealer to fill the tires with washer fluid as a part of delivery prep though.

You will have to be happy with simply slicing bits of the pile off- a few inches at a time and in this way you will not weaken the welds of the bucket and eventally break them at the lower cutting edge corners.

Ok, it's not made for the task and that is the root cause, along with an inexperienced operator. I guess a BH would be better suited.

I'll get on the pile with a shovel and break it up. That'll be the cheapest route.

thanks for the guidance,
Ian
 
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   / Angle of attack for bucket #7  
In my opinion, all good advice already, but here is something else you can try. if the dirt is really hard, you can go up to the mound, very slowly, with bucket tilted down a little, when you contact pile, (assuming you have a hydro tranny) put a little pressure on it with the hydro pedal, and rock the bucket tilt up and down several times to kinda "wedge" the bucket in the dirt. dont apply too much pressure with the hydro pedal just enough to keep some forward pressure , but not enough to spin the wheels, once the bucket goes forward into the dirt, (you should feel the tractor move foward just a few inches) then curl fully, and actually lower the lift a little then raise a little then back out with the hydro. see if that doesnt work.. I know it might be kinda hard to visualize, think of it as if you were trying to manually push a flat piece of metal into the dirt pile, you would wiggle the back end of the metal up and down to wedge it into the dirt, you would not try to just shove it in straight. Hope this helps, and didnt sound too crazy. But with a hydro, you can apply and release forward pressure as you work the bucket angle and lift height all at the same time. Think in terms of the tractor is just a piece of metal and you are doing the pushing and prying manually and it will become easier. Of course easy to do is easy to say:) but practice and it will really become easier.
James K0UA
 
   / Angle of attack for bucket #8  
When I 1st started using a loader (Cat track loader) I was told not to try and pick up the whole pile and when the bucket is full get out of there. That was 30 years ago and that comes back into my mind everytime I use my loader.
I work up at the top get it loose then fill the bucket or shave the edge of it. As you get into it a little it well get easy. Also don't go into the pile 100mph that only brakes things. Most of the time my tires well not spin. Let the tractor do the work and when tire are spinning you are only digging a hole and can not keep a level grade.
 
   / Angle of attack for bucket #9  
I guess you posted while I was posting, but I see you have no rear ballast on the 3 point, well that is hurting your operation, because your rear is becoming light and not giving you the pry power you should have. you might want to do a search and look at alternatives to having an implement on the rear, but still have the proper ballast.. The loaded tires are a great start, and highly recommended, but you still need the ballast on the 3 pt. I made mine for less than $100 including the barrel and the steel and the concrete mix. there are lots of other ideas on how to make ballast weights. you can use the search function and find many. There are some pictures of mine on here also. good luck
James K0UA
 
   / Angle of attack for bucket #10  
I'll look into it... It's got less than 2 hours on the meter though, so I'm not to revved about drilling holes in the bucket just yet. :)Ian
Best $200 you can spend. Get revved. Holes do not matter once the paint is scratched and dirty. A toothbar will give you an entire different plan of attack.
 

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