Captain Dirty
Platinum Member
Re: Another 蘇ow to cut this tree?
The basic rule is that the final cut is made on the tension side so that the kerf opens up and the saw doesn't get trapped. Bore or plunge cutting the back cut, cutting up to the back of the hinge, and finally severing the strap is a "textbook" method of felling a leaning, unsupported tree where the tension side is obvious. When a tree is leaning with the rootball attached the tension side may not be obvious. There may be enough potential force tending to bring the stump upright when the weight of the crown is removed that the tension is on the upper side of the trunk. The "strap" that you think is holding in tension on the lower side may be a "block" holding the kerf open in compression, and the bar gets trapped as the "block" is cut.
I like the idea of cutting up from the bottom.
...but maybe after cutting in from the top and setting some wedges?
Then what about maybe bore cutting in from the bottom, leave a strap so nothing is moving as I cut towards top, stop before you get there...then hit the bottom strap and run?
The basic rule is that the final cut is made on the tension side so that the kerf opens up and the saw doesn't get trapped. Bore or plunge cutting the back cut, cutting up to the back of the hinge, and finally severing the strap is a "textbook" method of felling a leaning, unsupported tree where the tension side is obvious. When a tree is leaning with the rootball attached the tension side may not be obvious. There may be enough potential force tending to bring the stump upright when the weight of the crown is removed that the tension is on the upper side of the trunk. The "strap" that you think is holding in tension on the lower side may be a "block" holding the kerf open in compression, and the bar gets trapped as the "block" is cut.