Another 2020 hydraulic oil leak

[DogT]

I replaced the brakes many years ago when the first hyd pump went out. I don't put many hours on this tractor per year, maybe 100 at most so I'm confident that the brakes are still good. I never did do much about the metal in the hyd fluid other than change the oil and the filter a lot and keep magnets in the filter and make sure the screens in the pump are clean. I could attempt to take off the rockshaft housing and flush out what I can find somehow but I doubt if I will ever get it all. When I drain the hyd oil it looks clean but there's always a bit of metallic sheen on it. Like I said when I had the RS PS housing off, I could see a build up of fine metal filings on a surface under the PS main shaft though.

So you're saying the seal and maybe the bushing on the load control shaft can be replaced externally? Yes I was reading from the Tech Manual TM-1044 under section 30 "Load Control Mechanism". It says to remove the rockshaft assembly and left hand rear axle housing to service that. But it looks like it's just a bushing and O-ring? Maybe I could get buy with just the O-ring? All the other o-rings/seals in this tractor were dry and brittle.

I wouldn't mind trying to flush out some of the metal if it's not a weeks project full time. I'm sure it's not doing any good but that's the way I got this tractor in about '85, unknown to me. Between the brakes, hydraulic pump and clutch I've got about as much into it as I paid for it. The engine has always run good but the loader control valve leaks and so does the 3 pt. hitch, but they work good other than that.

I use it to mow the 20 acres with the NH 7' sickle bar and snow removal in the winter. But I don't know how much longer we can keep this up, wife's 75 and I'm 73.

 

[Zebrafive]

I've changed the load shaft o-ring and bushing on a 2030 without draining oil or removing the load shaft. Slide the shaft in just far enough to access the bushing and o-ring. It will leak oil as you do this, but not a lot. Have everything ready and do it quickly.

 

[DogT]

Is the bushing a press fit? I'd be more than willing to drain the oil not to have it go all over the place. It's not a big project. As I remember there's a drain plug right below that area.

 

[DogT]

The bushing and seal seem to be available, but not the o-ring AA730R?

If I take off the rockshaft housing I might as well replace the o-rings and seals in the piston and lift arms. There's a piston repair kit I see. That doesn't look like an impossible job for me. It's a lot of parts to keep track of.

 

[Spanner]

DogT: Double-check your availability - The O-Ring is #A4730R.

I, too, have replaced these seals and O-rings once. Like "Zebrafive" did - I slid the shaft sideways, R&R the seal & O-ring. Slide it the other way... etc. Collected maybe 500ml (1 Pint) oil in a pan, total.

If you want to flush the trans this is a good time to do it, of course.

 

[DogT]

Thanks for correcting that. So just the seals and ring, not the bushing. It's worth a try for a few bucks. The trans oil has been changed last fall. Good to know I don't need to remove the wheel/axle.

 

[Spanner]

Bushing depends on wear. You can check for movement first with just the draught arms removed. Wheel spacing will determine the amount of room you have. I found the tyre was convenient to lean against.