Another bridge building question...

   / Another bridge building question... #11  
Thank you to all for your comments so far ...
...And "pier" was a poor choice of words, since I know that the abutments on which these beams will rest are going to have to be pretty heavy duty and will take a lot of cement to form.

I appreciate the comments and ideas -- always willing to hear more. I will continue to update as we get further along in the planning process.


Chris
Nit picker here:ashamed:. Abutments are made out of "concrete" that comes in a truck and Cement is one part of that concrete that comes in a bag.
Rule of thumb. unless you're abutments are Way, way back from the stream bank the top of the footer should be four feet below the bottom of the stream.
 
   / Another bridge building question... #12  
Thank you to all for your comments so far -- exactly why I joined! :)

I might not have been as clear as I should have been....this is not a "DIY by guessing" kind of job. I will certainly be having a local engineer do the planning and final calculations and tell me what I need -- but I was trying to do more of the design work myself and hopefully come up with a feasible idea instead of spending the engineer's time on design. I had downloaded BeamBoy and must have been doing something wrong because I wasn't having much luck in getting a deflection and/or weight rating, so I appreciate the calculation on my behalf. And "pier" was a poor choice of words, since I know that the abutments on which these beams will rest are going to have to be pretty heavy duty and will take a lot of cement to form.

I appreciate the comments and ideas -- always willing to hear more. I will continue to update as we get further along in the planning process.


Chris

How far were you able to get with beamboy? Were you able to get the beam with supports and load drawn? I'll walk you through everything in any case.

1. when you open the program, you are prompted to choose a beam length. So I'll choose 35'
2. Now you have to select the features. At the top, second tab is features, then add feature, then add support. You need 2 supports. One at 0' from left edge, one at 36' from left edge.
3. Now add the load. this is also under features tab. You can have a point load, or distributed load. I choose point load of 100,000# at 18'. So a whole lot of weight, right at mid span.
beamboy 1.JPG
4. Now select the I-beam properties you will be using. Beamboy has alot of info saved on common stuff. So go to the beam tab at the top, and select properties. Here you can manually input information, or click "choose" to select a beam they have in their system. After clicking "choose", select the W33x118 beam you have, then select "use x-x values". The y-y specs would be if you had the beam laying on its side.
beamboy2.JPG
Now that the beam is choosen, the final step is to calculate the stress and deflection. It is under the tab "calculate", then calculate stress and deflection. What pops up should look like this:
beamboy 3.JPG

Beam deflection of 0.95" And a bending stress of 30,000psi. Since the steel is typically A-36 Which is 36000psi steel, you are under on stress, and deflection is usually not to exceed L/360. Where the length in inches is 432. So 432/360 is 1.2" max allowable deflection.

The beams are NOT going to be the weakest link. Using more realistic loading, lets say a set of tandems from an 80,000# dump truck or concrete truck. For a 36' bridge, the front axle is gonna be pretty muck off the bridge before the rears go on. So lets say this truck has 60k over the rear tandems. Which is 30k per axle, and 15k per side per axle. Assuming the axles are 4' apart, lets draw up a beam with two 15k point loads each 2' off center

beamboy4.JPG

That represents a more realistic loading. Here is what the stress and deflection look like

Beamboy5.JPG

1/4" deflection when 1.2" is allowable. And only 8000psi bending stresses on 36ksi steel. Yea, the beams are fine. And like I said if you can work out the decking, I would not use all 4 beams. You can probably sell 2 of the beams to pay for the rest of the project.

ANd you can also use beamboy for wood beams too just so you know. When selecting beam properties, instead of hitting choose, select calculate. Input the wood dimensions and it will give you the i4 and distance to farthest fiber numbers. Then you have to change the modulus of elasticity to match whatever the lumber you are using. Steel is 30million. Wood is usually around 1 million. If you dont change that, and input your 4x10 dimensions, it will give a result as if it were 4x10 solid steel. You also have to know the max stress allowed in the wood. Where A36 steel is 36ksi, for wood the Fb is lower. usually between 500-1000psi for graded lumber. And up to and over 2k for MSR and engineered lumber
 
   / Another bridge building question... #13  
Interesting post. Please keep the site posted with pictures of the work in progress and the finished bridge.

Just a couple additional thoughts. Do you need to have your state DNR involved for a permit? Local building jurisdiction? I hate buracurstery but better to be on the good side right from the get go.
Thinking about the concrete placement for the abutments. Sounds as if a concrete pumper may be necessary and that would add a significant amount to the project cost.
 
   / Another bridge building question... #14  
I have an old wooden bridge that will need replacement within the next few years (if mushrooms growing out of the deck suggest anything). My span and load requirements are a lot less than yours. I have been thinking in terms of repurposing a flat deck shipping container or trailer/truck bed. For supports at the ends, I've been thinking about having a local construction company drive two steel piles on each side with a steel beam welded across them to support the bridge ends. I wonder if this would be easier and/or less costly than a massive concrete abutment?
Bob
 
   / Another bridge building question... #15  
I have an old wooden bridge that will need replacement within the next few years (if mushrooms growing out of the deck suggest anything). My span and load requirements are a lot less than yours. I have been thinking in terms of repurposing a flat deck shipping container or trailer/truck bed. For supports at the ends, I've been thinking about having a local construction company drive two steel piles on each side with a steel beam welded across them to support the bridge ends. I wonder if this would be easier and/or less costly than a massive concrete abutment?
Bob
Current bids are running about $0.50 per pound in place and a 14x14 x1/2" pile runs 90 lbs./lf but that is on jobs where there a lot of pounds to drive per set up and mobilization. To drive just four piles they are going to want a good stiff fee just to bring the equipment there and set it up. A couple of 36" diameter concrete filled sonotubes set in ten foot deep augured holes might be cheaper and easier to do.
 
   / Another bridge building question... #16  
Isn't there a difference between static and dynamic loading?
 
   / Another bridge building question...
  • Thread Starter
#17  
Holy moly, LD1 -- this fellow Buckeye thanks you for that wonderful tutorial! I truly appreciate it! I missed a few steps due to my unfamiliarity with it, and that makes all the difference.

Based on what these calculations are showing, I'm happy to read your assessment that the beams won't be the weakest link. And I somewhat agree with you that two beams should be enough, but with the way scrap prices are these days, it might not be that big of a hit to the wallet to just keep the extra two. At any rate, it's time for me to sharpen the pencil a little bit and spend some time with a structural engineering firm to figure out our best options.

Thank you so much to all for welcoming a newbie! Any and all ideas are still welcome....and certainly appreciated.
 
   / Another bridge building question... #18  
Don't forget live loads for a bridge with vehicle traffic -- that is an important factor.
 
   / Another bridge building question... #19  
How far were you able to get with beamboy? Were you able to get the beam with supports and load drawn? I'll walk you through everything in any case.
Thanks for the tutorial, it let me check how a beam I have would work for a cider press (very well) and how it would work for another location to help in the house :D

Aaron Z
 

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