Another electric fence question...

[japody]

Does anyone have any experience using a mix of electric and barbed wire for cattle? I'm thinking of using electric on wires 1, 3 & 5, with 2 & 4 barbed. Any thoughts or feedback would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

[DT86]

If the fence is hot enough you can do without the barbed wire.

If you do put both make sure they're far enough apart that electricity will not bleed over to the ground (barbed) wires.

 

[DT86]

Are you building interior or exterior fences?

 

[japody]

Both. Interior will be cross fencing.

 

[DT86]

I say stick with 2-3 hot wires and forget the barbed wire for those.

I have lots of cross fence built at two separate times. The first run is 10 years older than the other. In those 10 years I've found a lot of things to be improved on before the rest was built.

If you're interested I can share some thoughts, pictures, ect on what works and what doesn't for me.

 

[japody]

I say stick with 2-3 hot wires and forget the barbed wire for those.

I have lots of cross fence built at two separate times. The first run is 10 years older than the other. In those 10 years I've found a lot of things to be improved on before the rest was built.

If you're interested I can share some thoughts, pictures, ect on what works and what doesn't for me.

Yes I am interested! We have Angus on one side and Texas Longhorns on the other. Without the electric fence, the Longhorn bulls just lift up the wire with their horns and go.

 

[DT86]

Yes I am interested! We have Angus on one side and Texas Longhorns on the other. Without the electric fence, the Longhorn bulls just lift up the wire with their horns and go.

Your situation certainly is different from mine. I run one heard rotational grazing. So some of my experience won't apply to your set up.

On the old side we have three wires, all of which are hot. It's a great set up except the bottom wire is too close to the ground, in the late summer the grass grows up into it and shorts out. Then you have to drag out a weedeater and clean the fence rows. On the new side I put the bottom wire much higher and the cows clean under it for me. In your situation if I was going to use barb wire I would put it on the very bottom to discourage the Longhorns from lifting up and going through, but perhaps they could still graze under so you don't have to end up weed eating.

Another big thing I learned is that almost all new high tensile wire sucks compared to the 10 year old stuff. I bought some that was made in Arkansas and it sags within a year. I bought some that was made in Mexico so far is doing much better. If I had this to do over again I would probably spend a few extra dollars and buy through Kencove.

If you have any specific questions let me know. Post spacing and type, bracing and corners, insulators, chargers, ect. I'd also be glad to take pictures of anything you are interested in.

 

[japody]

I wasn't going to use high tensile. I use 14 gauge galvanized wire. I do have a stash of 9 rolls of high tensile that my FIL bought about 20 years ago but never used. BTW, I see that you have a David Brown 885. I have a 990 that is currently not working. The 3 point is jammed stuck.

 

[DT86]

I would seriously consider using that old wire if I were you. If not you could always sell it to me!
What's your thought on using the 14 over the high tensile?

I tell you I love that old David Brown, Dad bought it used in the late 70s or early 80s, the three point hitch is the biggest pain in the butt. I've had it worked on twice by a man that work for the dealership when those were new. He told me you kind of had to have religion to work on one. I don't know if he meant you have to believe in it for it to work or that you had to pray a lot to keep from going crazy. Either way it still doesn't work right! It pretty much only pulls a V-rake or creep feeder now.

 

[DT86]

On the David Brown are you sure it's not locked up in transport mode? On mine there is also a screwy selector valve, which I've never been able to figure out 100%.

 

[japody]

To me, the 14 gauge is easier to handle when using t-posts. Funny, the guy who worked on my DB also worked for the dealer in Boydton. He tried everything to get it to move but said the internal parts (gears?) were jammed.

 

[DT86]

How far apart are you put your wood posts and how far between are your metal posts? I have spent a lot of time removing T posts from our farm. If you haven't actually bought your metal posts yet there are some really nice composite posts that don't require an insulator.

 

[japody]

I have been stocking up on t-posts, mostly off Craigslist. Some even came with the insulators on them. As far as spacing of the wooden posts, it depends on the terrain. We have some hills and valleys. On the fairly level areas, I would say 300 - 400 ft. We also use trees when they are in line.

 

[DT86]

You and I build completely different types of fence then.

Still willing to share anything I have figured out, though it may not apply to you.

 

[japody]

Thanks for the input.