Another fence job down, more to go

   / Another fence job down, more to go
  • Thread Starter
#21  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( What did you use to fasten the wire to the poles? Did you run anything extra along the ground, or is the wire off the ground?)</font>

The only place we ran a bottom pipe rail was along the back property line. It backs up to a new subdivision with their contractor supplied stockade fencing. We didn't want the horses cribbing on the the neighbor's fences so we ran our fence a little over six feet high. We put in a bottom rail to help keep the horses from deforming the fabric as they maintained the growth along the property line. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

V Mesh is like having a barbless barb wire every four inches. So it really doesn't need much support. The pipe top rail does two things. It gives the fence rigidity and support, important. But it's also a safety factor for the horses. It provides a visible barrier that the horse can see. This is also important.

I use formed hook twelve and a half gauge steel fence ties. I buy the eight and a quarter inchers by the case. Between the post having five and the eight foot section having five I use about ten steel ties per eight foot of pipe with fabric fence. Aluminum sucks for fence ties. It's for sissies. It doesn't work. It doesn't last. Did I mention I didn't like aluminum ties?

Building a framework for a fence, posts, braces, and top rail if used, is just part of it. Stretching, dressing, and then properly tying is just as important.

What is sad is most pipe fencing is done by welders. They assume the weld is the most important part of the fence. They're wrong. Fence installers assume their setting of the posts is the most important part. They're partly right. A good fence has to have the posts set right. If there's welding then it's got to be done right. And the fabric needs to be properly installed.


I have a three phase Miller Spectrum 1000 and an Esab 625 that runs on single phase. In fact I've ran the Esab off of the Trailblazer on the truck using compressed nitrogen for air in the field.

The very most important thing in my book in a when considering a plasma torch is dealer support. Any of the major labels work well. But with a plasma you learn the meaning of the word "consumables". That's the tips and parts that are sacrificial. They need to be reasonable and they need to be readily available.

With the Esab it's about fifteen to twenty dollars each time you burn up a pair. Letting a friend try out your torch can cost you twenty dollars a lesson. I'm looking right now at replacing the torch on my Esab because I allowed some rookies to play with it. It's my fault, my bill.
 
   / Another fence job down, more to go
  • Thread Starter
#22  
Thanks guys for all the complements.

I do enjoy building fence. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I just hope that some of my enthusiasm rubs off on ya'll.

If not that then maybe you will become a little more educated on what good fencing can be. Then when you see a good fence you can congradulate the installer and encourage him--her to have pride in his--her work.

Wouldn't that be grand?
 
   / Another fence job down, more to go #23  
Harv ... I know you love wood too ... our local outfit been installin horse fencing for 60 years.

In July of 2001, we had 2-1/2 acres of 4 board and batten fencing put in.

The owner (Ketchum Fencing PLUG) installed three 12-foot alum gates, 178 pressure treated pine posts and 4 board oak with oak battens in ONE WEEKEND. See attached.

He had a nifty old 4WD 2 ton Dodge with a rear mounted auger. He punched all the holes and set all the posts on a Saturday and his 3 boy crew came with 3 stilhs, a pnuematice nailer and did all the boards and battens on Sunday. Gates were in by 11am Mon. Morning.

This included settin the gate posts in concrete and about a dozen posts where he had to bore through sub surface shale shelves. For the latter, he auguerd a 3" hole into the shale apprx. 3 feet down and had 4 foot steel pins set into the post, then the pin and post cemented into the shale.

Impressed the begoogles outta all who witnessed. Smart, fast, to the point and reasonably priced. Don't see that too much these days.
 

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   / Another fence job down, more to go #24  
Harv,

You may not like doing the silhouettes, but you are good at it. I especially like how you suspended it under the arc. Very nice.

-Peter
 
   / Another fence job down, more to go #25  
Harv,

How do you stretch the mesh fence so you can tie it to the posts?

When I have been installing field fencing, I use a <font color="blue">rig </font> off the back of my tractor to hold the spool of fencing and pull it tight.
 
   / Another fence job down, more to go
  • Thread Starter
#26  
Just shows with the right equipment and attitude a lot of work can get done.
 
   / Another fence job down, more to go
  • Thread Starter
#27  
This is a photo of my tractor lifting a roll of wire over the framework so we can unroll it.

Here it is being used to dispense wire on the same side of the fence line as the tractor.

Another shot of it ready to work.

I got the photos from this thread TBN
 
   / Another fence job down, more to go
  • Thread Starter
#28  
I have three different tools I use to tension the fabric after it's rolled out and temporarily tied up.

Two of them are made of steel and basically work with friction, not unlike a military belt buckle. The third one is a steel frame with two by threes attached to it. Five bolts hold two halves together clasping the wire.

The friction ones are superior when pulling past the end post. The familiar old board method works best when that isn't possible.

I imagine if you'd had the time to weld up a frame instead of using wood we'd have a lot in common. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
   / Another fence job down, more to go #29  
Thanks for the photos Harv.

I made the "fencing tool" out of wood as a proto type several years ago. The present design only works along the center line of the tractor. That's ok to a point. However, this means I can't put the fence posts in the ground first; which is not the right way to lay out the posts.

I have plans to redesign it, so I can work on the centerline of the tractor or swing the spool to one side the way you do it. And as luck would have it, to do this redesign correctly, I get to fire up the welder. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 

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