Another Ferguson35 hydraulics won't work right thread.

[Mike476]

Not sure how the 2135 set up compares to the 35s or 135s. If you haven't got a manual I would recommend getting one, well worth the money. Great for measurements / tolerances / pressures etc, and for visual people like myself, a picture IS worth a thousand words.

 

[swampbuggy]

I have a manual and have been re-reading it. Seems the hydraulic pressure is in the script, not on an info page. Anyways, I took a couple of videos showing what happens when I bypassed the draft attachment. Remember, this tractor is old, and I didn't pay much, so tell me whats happening and it I can fix it without removing the top cover.

 

[swampbuggy]

video #2, top link removed

 

[swampbuggy]

video #3 shows looseness in the draft spring.

 

[The kid]

As the Kid said, proper fluid is important. To answer your filter location question for the 135, a pic is worth a thousand words. The other thing to check are the seals on the standpipe. With the tractor running look through the filler port when operating your 3PH, if there is a waterfall of fluid cascading from the top of it as there was from mine when I was having problems, replace the seals. I apologize for the quatity of the images. <img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=347296"/><img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=347297"/>

Good pictures Mike. I used your picture and zoomed in to show the filter, safety wire and filter top. -kid

 

[namyessam]

I have a manual and have been re-reading it. Seems the hydraulic pressure is in the script, not on an info page. Anyways, I took a couple of videos showing what happens when I bypassed the draft attachment. Remember, this tractor is old, and I didn't pay much, so tell me whats happening and it I can fix it without removing the top cover.

Check out this thread its similar his wouldnt go down yours wont go up. Check out Shona13 response.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...ntage/294077-ferguson-3-point-hitch-wont.html

 

[The kid]

Well I disconnected the top link. I placed a chain around the housing and used it as a top link to bypass the draft control. My forks lifted with enough force to lift the front of the tractor up. I must have some problem in the draft control to make it do that. Now what?there seems to be about a half an inch of play in the draft spring. Don't know if there's something I need to fix with that or not. I have heard some rattling in the gearcase and need to look to see if the PTO Drive / hydraulic drive is loose. Now what!?...lol. Dan

Your yoke to the draft spring should only have a tiny bit of slack. If the end yoke moves in and out quite a bit something is wrong. I have pictures in my thread where I took mine completely apart to refurbish it. The retainer locking ring that screws in could be a bear to remove if it's rusted. All of that assembly is available aftermarket. I would just imagine the 2135 and the 135 have very similar parts in that area. In fact the design dates back to the MF35 and maybe earlier.

The draft is a self leveling mechanical sensing when pressure is put on the upper point of your three point hitch. The draft control on your right fender only adjust the sensitivity and helps set the depth. If your lift arms are not operating correctly, you have other issues with fluid circulation not driving the pistons.there are internal control valves that divert fluid to the arm as you move the lift lever on the fender. Those valves could be clogged with contaminated oil.

To be honest. If your draft setting on the fender is off, then the draft spring is simply an attachment point and does not play a factor in with the lifting arms. So play in the spring should not effect the lifting arms. You obviously have other hydraulic issues to address. -kid

 

[swampbuggy]

I guess I need to remove the cover! When the draft control lever is all the way to the rear, the arms go come up. If the lever is moved down, the arms go down even if the position control lever is to the rear. Must be a problem! Now my problem will be getting it fixed in a timely manner. Thanks for the help, and Kid, I found your pictures on page 20 of the rebuild. Thanks again, Dan

 

[TomSeller]

Well I disconnected the top link. I placed a chain around the housing and used it as a top link to bypass the draft control. My forks lifted with enough force to lift the front of the tractor up. I must have some problem in the draft control to make it do that. Now what?there seems to be about a half an inch of play in the draft spring. Don't know if there's something I need to fix with that or not. I have heard some rattling in the gearcase and need to look to see if the PTO Drive / hydraulic drive is loose. Now what!?...lol. Dan

Exactly why I suggested to bypass the top link. This is an excellent way to rule draft in or out. Good job.

 

[namyessam]

I guess I need to remove the cover! When the draft control lever is all the way to the rear, the arms go come up. If the lever is moved down, the arms go down even if the position control lever is to the rear. Must be a problem! Now my problem will be getting it fixed in a timely manner. Thanks for the help, and Kid, I found your pictures on page 20 of the rebuild. Thanks again, Dan

I don't think there is anything wrong. The manual says you should be using the position control lever for this type of implement. The draft control lever should be in the transport position and the position lever nearest the seat should be used to raise and lower the forks. get a manual and read for yourself. I wouldnt pull the cover until your are positive you are operating it properly.

The manual says when using the draft control lever for soil engaging implements (plows etc) the position control lever is in the transport position.

The linkage is loose and needs to be adjusted properly. It may be causing problems with the control valve linkage inside when trying to use the draft lever.