Another Ford 1920 with rear rim issues

   / Another Ford 1920 with rear rim issues #1  

MA1920

Silver Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2005
Messages
150
Location
Central MA
Tractor
Ford 1920
I've been reading the recent (and older) threads about 1920's with tire and/or rim problems, but I can't seem to find answers to my questions. One day I went to use the tractor and noticed a big puddle in the barn, I realized it came from the tire, I didn't change the valve core for a couple years and it completely rotted.

At this point, I figured I would get two new rims, but after searching online I can't find any that resemble the original. The tires are 14.9x24 on a 13" rim. Is it hard to find a 13x24 rim?


IMG_0944.JPG this is the tire that lost ballast, if it lost fluid and air why isn't the tire sitting on the rim?


IMG_0919.JPG tire on opposite side

Do you think it's wise to replace both rims?
The original Ford rims look to have two positions to space the tires. All new rims I see are single "loop." Will a single loop rim provide similar wheel spacing to what I have now?

Should I keep the original rubber or get new tires? The tractor is 32 years old.


Thanks for any help. Sorry if I'm rambling, it's time for bed.


Bob
 
   / Another Ford 1920 with rear rim issues #2  
I've been reading the recent (and older) threads about 1920's with tire and/or rim problems, but I can't seem to find answers to my questions. One day I went to use the tractor and noticed a big puddle in the barn, I realized it came from the tire, I didn't change the valve core for a couple years and it completely rotted.

At this point, I figured I would get two new rims, but after searching online I can't find any that resemble the original. The tires are 14.9x24 on a 13" rim. Is it hard to find a 13x24 rim?


View attachment 592311 this is the tire that lost ballast, if it lost fluid and air why isn't the tire sitting on the rim?


View attachment 592314 tire on opposite side

Do you think it's wise to replace both rims?
The original Ford rims look to have two positions to space the tires. All new rims I see are single "loop." Will a single loop rim provide similar wheel spacing to what I have now?

Should I keep the original rubber or get new tires? The tractor is 32 years old.


Thanks for any help. Sorry if I'm rambling, it's time for bed.


Bob

I have a 1989 4x4 Ford 1920FEL.
You will not find any 13" rims.
12" rims are given as an alternate, and they are readily available.
You can buy them on E-Bay for $142 ea. with free shipping.
I replaced mine, and used new tubes with WW fluid. No more CaCl for me!
Single loop will work fine, just depends how you position the center plate.
 
   / Another Ford 1920 with rear rim issues
  • Thread Starter
#3  
If the current Firestones state 14.9x24 on 13" rim, is there any difference by mounting it on a 12" rim? I assume the tractor came with 13" rims. ( I know I shouldn't assume anything when it comes to what an OEM may or may not do.)


Do you recommend new tires? I'm thinking by the time I break the bead, it could damage the tire.
 
   / Another Ford 1920 with rear rim issues #4  
If the current Firestones state 14.9x24 on 13" rim, is there any difference by mounting it on a 12" rim? I assume the tractor came with 13" rims. ( I know I shouldn't assume anything when it comes to what an OEM may or may not do.)


Do you recommend new tires? I'm thinking by the time I break the bead, it could damage the tire.

Take new 12" rims, and the old tires on rims, to Pete's tires in Orange,(275 E. Main St., 978-544-8811) and have them do the swap.
You should use tubes (new) if you plan to liquid fill the tires.
Pete's will tell you if they can do the swap without damaging the tires.
If not, they will have new BKT 14.9x24 tires available.
They were great folks to deal with.
 
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   / Another Ford 1920 with rear rim issues #5  
I doubt you need new rims.. mine cracked the metal valvestem at the inside of the rim and mine looked worse than that and tire guy said they were fine I just had the tubes replaced and I kept on going.. if you have the time have them take the tires off then blast and paint the rims.. a little around the hole isn't going to be a big deal..
 
   / Another Ford 1920 with rear rim issues #6  
I doubt you need new rims.. mine cracked the metal valvestem at the inside of the rim and mine looked worse than that and tire guy said they were fine I just had the tubes replaced and I kept on going.. if you have the time have them take the tires off then blast and paint the rims.. a little around the hole isn't going to be a big deal..

If your tires were filled with CaCl for many years,(mine were for 25 years) there is a very good chance that you DO NEED new rims.
My rims were bad!
 
   / Another Ford 1920 with rear rim issues #7  
Could be that your puddle came from condensation/liquid trapped between the tube and the inside of your tire. Last time I aired my beet-juice loaded rear tires on my 1920, I noticed some fluid squirting from around the valve stem and thought that I had damaged the stem. It eventually stopped and I surmised that the additional air pressure had pressed the inner tube harder against the inside of the tire and squirted some condensation/fluid that had built up around the valve stem. That was about 9 months ago and no signs of problems since.
 
   / Another Ford 1920 with rear rim issues
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Could be that your puddle came from condensation/liquid trapped between the tube and the inside of your tire. Last time I aired my beet-juice loaded rear tires on my 1920, I noticed some fluid squirting from around the valve stem and thought that I had damaged the stem. It eventually stopped and I surmised that the additional air pressure had pressed the inner tube harder against the inside of the tire and squirted some condensation/fluid that had built up around the valve stem. That was about 9 months ago and no signs of problems since.

I've owned the tractor for over 30 years and in that time I noticed condensation on the outside of the tire, usually during a drastic change in temperature and/or humidity. This time I noticed a decrease in traction and stability, which has me thinking to replace both rear rims.
 
   / Another Ford 1920 with rear rim issues
  • Thread Starter
#9  
If your tires were filled with CaCl for many years,(mine were for 25 years) there is a very good chance that you DO NEED new rims.
My rims were bad!

The tractor was bought in June of 1988, so the rims have been tasting calcium chloride for over 30 years. I probably should know why, but if there is a tube, how does the solution come in contact with the rim?
 
   / Another Ford 1920 with rear rim issues #10  
The tractor was bought in June of 1988, so the rims have been tasting calcium chloride for over 30 years. I probably should know why, but if there is a tube, how does the solution come in contact with the rim?

Believe it or not that DAMx CaCl somehow apparently finds it's way through the tube (or people checked the pressure with the valve stem at the 6 o'clock position)
The rust will show at the valve stem only, but when the tire/tube/rim is broken down you will see the rust buildup all around the valve stem edge side of the rim.
I saved my 13" rims, and had the valve stem holes (welded) patched.
I have planned to try to epoxy the 13" rims, and maybe use, or sell them, but that is yet another task not completed.
My tractor is a 1989.
 

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