Another Ford 4000

[Soundguy]

since grills can be replaced easilly.. I'd do exactly as whodat said and look for the serial number in the correct spot.. IE.. on the flat of the trans bellhousing aft of the starter. it's been there on fords from 1953+

soundguy

 

[doall]

Now that there's funny. . . I don't care who you are.:laughing:

funny? I hope his wife doesn't read that.

 

[Soundguy]

I one time started my truck.. or at least turned it over a couple times but let off the key before it started due to hearing a terrible screech and racket. figured I'd lost a fan belt. before I could get out of the truck a huge coon shot out of the wheel well and took off headed for the woods.. didn't see any blood .. and truck seemed to start fine with no noises after that

soundguy

 

[Tower]

Did as instructed, copied down what I could read and went by a local shop to find a manual. Apparently I have a 1965 Ford 4000 that was built on August 17 during the day shift. The third row of numbers started with a B which supposedly means that it was built in England? Any way, glad to know that, just ready to get started. Up first is to get the tach cable connected to the dash, then get all of the lights wiring working properly. Currently no lights work at all. Not sure if it's bulbs or wire, so testing the connections on the switch, then moving to the lights testing for current first. I see no real reason to upgrade to a 12v system other than potential better battery charge between cuts, anyone have an opinion about that? At this point, I guess I need to move this thread off to the proper forum here, but just to stay with the theme here, I paid right at 3k for the beast. Feeling like it was a good deal. The motor runs like a champ, tires have several years left on them and an all around solid ride minus some work I'll need to do on the tins. Adding a pic to show that front end from an iPhone pic. Thanks for the help guys. Looking forward to getting this thing back in shape!!

 

[whodat526]

it is already 12 volt

 

[MBDiagMan]

Yes, it should be 12 Volt.

That's quite a weight box on there. If you don't need it, will it come off easily?

I think you made a real score on this tractor. I have had it's little cousin a 3000 diesel for the last 24 years. I did lots of stuff with it for which I really needed a 4000, but it worked hard and never complained.

If the wiring harness is brittle or been cut into a lot, you can get a replacement wiring harness for reasonable money.

I expect that this little jewel will serve you well for years to come with even a small amount of care given to it.

Enjoy!

 

[Soundguy]

yep.. will be 12v.. and if no dash lamps, check the lil fuse in the harness behind the cluster.

ps.. napa carries the cluster bulbs..

soundguy

 

[Tower]

Latest update is that I've swapped out most of the fluids, (more this weekend) worked on the wiring to relocate the headlights, and get that 300 lbs basket off the front and primed. I've also put a primer coat on the rear wheels to ready them to be rotated outward. Local folk in the area tend to rotate tires outward to provide better stability on some of the hills. Also got a tach adapter to go onto the generator, granted I swapped out the generator and voltage regulator. The battery light was staying on after cranked and heard that it could be either. But have learned in the past to replace both if one is causing the other to go bad.

 

[Soundguy]

replacing both is a bit overkill.. but i guess if you have money to burn.. why not eh?

lucas regs are pretty junky, and cause more than half of the charge problems I see on post 65 machines.. the generators, while not as robust as a ford pre 65 model.. aren't too bad.

I see no reason to replace a good 100$ genny if a 20$ vreg decides to go casters up... again.. your money to burn...

soundguy

 

[Tower]

replacing both is a bit overkill.. but i guess if you have money to burn.. why not eh?

lucas regs are pretty junky, and cause more than half of the charge problems I see on post 65 machines.. the generators, while not as robust as a ford pre 65 model.. aren't too bad.

I see no reason to replace a good 100$ genny if a 20$ vreg decides to go casters up... again.. your money to burn...

soundguy

Well, I've learned the hard way on cars that it's usually one component in a series of three that tend to break the other two. In this case, it was one of the two, and at 75 bucks for generator and 17 for regulator.... I figured with a 45 year old tractor.....it might be good to replace both.

I read a tip on another site to crank the tractor and "tap" on the generator and regulator to see which was faulty, in my case both tended to cause the battery light to go out momentarily.

Thanks for all the advice on here guys. I'm learning a ton. The tough thing is just finding the parts at a good price.

 

[Soundguy]

here's a money saving tip, next time, do 30 seconds more testing by doing a motor test, then full field on the genny, and then a cutout bypass and between the 3 it will PINPOINT the problem as to if it is a vreg, genny, or both.

gennies are much more fault tolerant than alternators, where if you have a battery go out, it can sometimes kill the alt too.. etc.

soundguy