Another operating question (Clutch)

[Dr. Bob]

So, why does the use of the clutch seem to make it easier to engage/disengage 4WD and change ranges? I don't think this is my imagination.

 

[dfkrug]

So, why does the use of the clutch seem to make it easier to engage/disengage 4WD and change ranges? I don't think this is my imagination.

It is not your imagination. Unless the HST pump's swash plate is perfectly
centered, there will be some pressure on the gear box gears, trying to
make the tractor go fwd or rev. The clutch disconects the engine from the
PTO AND the HST. Same for shifting the MFWD on and off. My Kioti user
manual says to use clutch pedal when shifting HST ranges.

The foot clutch may also be used as a starter interlock, instead of various
neutral and seat switches.

 

[Charlton John]

So will it cause any extra wear and tear either way (used or not used) when changing ranges or going into 4wd, starting etc...? Thanks

 

[Yankee Clipper]

Depends which tractor and powertrain you have. Gear drive with live PTOs should be clutched all the time. With the mechancial shuttle, you can but most do not.

If you have a hydro transmission, the clutch can take the driveline windup out but it also is useful in cold starts when the hydro may not want to spin readily or your battery is discharged.

Again on hydros /GSTs with master clutches, some guys use them for hooking up implements or inching towards a truck when doing loader work.

Also in a panic stop, you left leg wants to hit the clutch.

It really does not hurt a thing to use a clutch on a hydro / GST tractor unless you slip it continually.

 

[Charlton John]

Depends which tractor and powertrain you have. Gear drive with live PTOs should be clutched all the time. With the mechancial shuttle, you can but most do not.

If you have a hydro transmission, the clutch can take the driveline windup out but it also is useful in cold starts when the hydro may not want to spin readily or your battery is discharged.

Again on hydros /GSTs with master clutches, some guys use them for hooking up implements or inching towards a truck when doing loader work.

Also in a panic stop, you left leg wants to hit the clutch.

It really does not hurt a thing to use a clutch on a hydro / GST tractor unless you slip it continually.

What about not using it do you feel its hurting the tractor? Thanks Yankee Clipper

 

[DAP]

On my B7800:

1. You have to clutch to start the machine unless you've tampered with the wiring.
2. You CAN clutch to switch between Hi, Lo and Med ranges if she'll slide in nicely. Clutching may OR may not make it easier, it all depends on how the swash plates have come to rest.
3. You have to clutch to engage the 4WD lever.

Regarding #2 above, sometimes you have to tap the forward or reverse pedals to change the swashplate alignment with or without the clutch.

THIS ASSUMES YOU ARE ON FLAT GROUND by the way.

My dos centavos.

 

[Botabill]

From reading these posts I gather it is advisable to use the clutch when starting, changing HST ranges, engaging the PTOs and when changing from 4 to 2 and back to 4 wheel drive. My observations are that it does seem to facilitate the changes in many cases even though the changes can be done without the clutch. I'm gonna use it!

 

[BrierPatch]

For the most part I never use the clutch to change HST ranges and 2 to 4WD, except in special situations on both my 2620 and 7200. I only use the clutch to engage and disengage the PTO. Not using the clutch will not cause wear and tear on your driveline if you do it correctly. The key is that you do not have the drive line (HST or 4wd) under any pressure. It is easier for the 2WD to 4wd to 2WD, all you need to do is make sure you are not turning a corner or spinning a wheel and you can engage and disengage it on the fly, essentially all 4 tires moving the same speed. I actually seem to have more trouble trying to get it into 4WD when I am not moving. I believe shifting the HST without using the clutch takes getting the feel for it. If you can get the feel for it then there is no problem. The "feel" is whether the drive line is pulling the tractor or holding the tractor. Once again you want the driveline to be free/no load. I usually change ranges just as the tractor is coming to a complete stop on flat ground. In this "no load" situation the slight movement lets the gears line up much easier with no force on the teeth when changing ranges. On hills I use the brakes to hold the tractor and try and catch the moment where the driveline is free. This takes a lot more "feeling" to get, which is where you might have to use the clutch and brakes to get the driveline free from load.

When my 2620 was new it seemed stiff to shift ranges and I used the clutch, which didn't seem to make that much diff, but after a few hours on it and several shifts it would shift nice and smooth and I quit using the clutch. Now it shifts almost effortlessly through the ranges and the 4wd.