Another RC debris guard idea

[madpogue]

Hijacking a couple of ideas I gleaned here, and knocking them around in a blender, I came up with this concept for a hang-chain brush guard for my KK 5' brush hog. I'm gonna use perforated angle iron and bolt the hanging chains to the perforations, and then bolt the whole thing right to the front edge of the deck.

Here's a photo of a prototype build. I can use 1/4-20 bolts/nuts, with big washers where the nut holds the chain. The horizontal part of the angle iron will be bolted to the front edge of the top of the deck. I'm only doing the front, and only the half corresponding to the side by which the blades would discharge anything. The field is fairly clean, and I don't let ANYONE near me while I've got the blades turning.

Questions / opinions sought:
* Chain length -- Prototyping, I'm cutting the chain in 11-link sections, hanging it by the middle (sixth) link. This means each vertical section is six links, including the link by which it's mounted. That seems about right length-wise, but should I go shorter/longer?

* Drilling the deck -- KK says the deck is 12ga (light duty). I noticed this thread about HF step drills, and how you can go thru pretty thick stuff pretty quickly with them, even with a cordless drill. The implement is at a location with no AC electricity. I can bring cordless 18V tools down, and the charger. I can run the charger from an inverter plugged into the car, but the inverter won't drive an AC drill. So, will an 18V cordless drill, using these step-drills, be able to put a half-dozen or so 1/4" holes in the deck of my KK?

Fasteners -- I suppose I could go stainless, but do I need to? If not, what bolt grade should I use? Obviously Grade 2 won't cut it, but will grade 5, or should I go to grade 8?

Other ideas/impressions -- Anything I'm missing? Any caveats?

 

[MarcusCarr]

I have an 18v Dewalt that I use for all my metal work. It will run those bits easily. I just finished using a holesaw to cut six 1.5 inch holes in 1/4 steel and another two 1" holes in 1/2" steel. I think I swapped the battery once and it was probably already low when I started.

Marcus

 

[Soundguy]

Instead of drilling the deck.. how about using that perfed angle iron to attach to the 2 bolts on either side attaching the A-frame tot he deck.. have 2 runners coming straight out, and then bolt your hangingchain guard to that?

I did similar with a rubber-truck-mat guard on my KK. All it took was hogging out 2 holes in each support so the ?1/2" or 5/8" A-frame bolts would make it thru the perfed metal.

Soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

Forgot to add, post pics!

Soundguy

 

[mjncad]

I would think Grade 5 would be more than adequate; but if in doubt, go with Grade 8 as the extra cost is trivial especially on 1/4-20 bolts.

 

[hill]

That angled metal looks pretty lightweight and could be the weak link in the project unless you anticipate it having to deflect nothing but grass. But what if something heavier gets tossed or dumped on your lot and you don't see it? Best anticipate the unexpected.
truth is, I'd go for more brawn in the whole setup but then my cutter encounters some stuff it makes into dangerous schrapnel.

If you have a sharp 1/4" or slightly larger drill bit I don't think you need to invest in a stepdrill, and a charged up 18V drill should drill twice that many holes and more in 12 gauge with plenty of juice left when done.

If the top of your cutter is 12 gauge steel then there will be some support and strengthening structure underneath. Try to look under wherever you plan to drill through to be sure it's clear for your bolting.

 

[3RRL]

Questions / opinions sought:
* Chain length -- Prototyping, I'm cutting the chain in 11-link sections, hanging it by the middle (sixth) link. This means each vertical section is six links, including the link by which it's mounted. That seems about right length-wise, but should I go shorter/longer?

That seems about the right length.
Important:
Check where you blade comes to the outside edge of your RC. See if any of the chain can be deflected back into the blade. You need to suspend them out far enough so the blades don't cut the chains off. OTOH, they should be long enough to cover the height of the deck, like the sides are covered.

 

[Soundguy]

On my KK I had to set my mudflap guard out 3-4 inches for just that reason, as the blades come to just under the lip of the front of the machine. Mine is the old red style of KK.

Soundguy

 

[dbdartman]

That angled metal looks pretty lightweight and could be the weak link in the project

I agree. That's only 2" angle & thin. I wouldn't consider using it unless I had enough to create a "T" by bolting two pieces together & sandwiching the chains in between. To mount, I'd create four or five more T's about 12" long, invert then on top of the deck & hang the guard five to six inches from the deck edge. Four 1/4" or 5/16" bolts per mount to deck top, four 5/16" bolts per mount to guard.

Or get a length of 1.5X1.5X 1/8 angle drill it & weld up the guard & bolt it on.