Another Rear Counterweight (Ballast)

hazmat · May 11, 2004

Got tired of dragging my aerator out of the shed to use as counterweight with the FEL and my unloaded turf tires, so I decided to build a dedicated counterweight.

I got my inspiration from several threads here on tbn.

This is my first ever stick welding attempt. A good one too - I get to bury my ugly welds in concrete after I'm done.

The counterweight consists of a Cat 1 Drawbar as the cross member, 2x3 Tubing as the upright, and 2x3 angle to get some bite into the concrete. The tub is 32 gallons (fit 560lb of concrete in it). An 18 gallon tub will sit on top to give another couple hundred pounds. I used some old chainlink fence to bind the two tubs together.

hazmat · May 11, 2004

closeup of welds

Before I put the weldment in the tub, I hooked it up to the three point & did the 200# fat man jump test to check if my welds have any strength.

hazmat · May 11, 2004

Another Angle

hazmat · May 11, 2004

Inside the tub

hazmat · May 11, 2004

The only hiccup was that I couldn't sneak the weldment into the tub & had to cut a slot in the side. I used duct tape to hold the tub together for the pour.

hazmat · May 11, 2004

This is where the camera battery died. I've poured the concrete into the 32 gallon tub & it has been curing since Sunday. Tonight I'll pour the concrete into the 18 gallon tub & take some more pictures.

For those interested in cost:

Drawbar $20
Steel Free (est $20 actual cost)
Tubs $15
Quickcrete $33

Total $88

Bob_Skurka · May 11, 2004

Did you think you can add some HEAVY DUTY casters to the bottom of that so you can roll it around in the garage and make your hook up easier?

hazmat · May 11, 2004

Not a bad idea Bob.

Henro · May 11, 2004

Interesting concept having a tup on a tub. Look forward to seeing the pictures to come.

I looked at the pictures first before reading everything and was wondering what the top of that "Christmas tree" was sticking out for... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Good job. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

hazmat · May 11, 2004

Interesting concept having a tup on a tub 

The reason for "tub on tub" construction (maybe I should patent it /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif) is that I wanted the weight to be quick hitch compatible which means that the centerline of the toplink connection should be 15" above the lift arm centerline.

A larger single tub or barrel would be taller than 15" and prevent this. Someday I hope to get a quick hitch.

Bob_Skurka · May 11, 2004

I put a set of casters on my 3pt sprayer and it makes life amazingly easy when connecting it to the tractor. Empty the spray rig probably weighs a bit over 100# so it is fairly light, but I know that hooking up heavy things is always a challenge and it would seem like casters would save you a lot of time talking to the priest asking for forgivness after you let out a flurry of unsavory words trying to muscle a tub of concrete onto your 3pt.

I got an old industrial cart that is about 2' by 5' and the 3pt Snowblower sits on that thing 3 seasons of the year. When it comes time to hook it up, I just roll the blower out of its hiding place in the very back of the garage behind all the kids toys, bikes & scooters. It makes life so much easier.

Your big problem will be finding casters heavy duty enough to handle the weight. Another option might be to get a "furniture mover" and set the weight box down on it every time you take the weight off the tractor.

Bob_Skurka · May 11, 2004

( Got tired of dragging my aerator out of the shed to use as counterweight with the FEL and my unloaded turf tires,
)

Silly question, but I just noticed that your tires are NOT loaded. Why? Wouldn't it be a heck of a lot easier to fluid or foam fill the tires to pick up a few hundred pounds of ballast?

hazmat · May 11, 2004

Silly question, but I just noticed that your tires are NOT loaded. Why? Wouldn't it be a heck of a lot easier to fluid or foam fill the tires to pick up a few hundred pounds of ballast?


Not a silly question. My R4 tires are loaded (280# total each tire). I bought the turfs because I was tearing up my lawn - soft river silt soil. I kept the rears unloaded to be nicer to the lawn. For heavy work I put the R4s on (still requires an implement on the back).

Even with the FEL empty, the tracter is light in the rear end with the unloaded tires. The counterweight is for light duty work - spreading mulch, or for a small job where I don't want to take the hour to change tires.

garbageman · May 11, 2004

Not to change the subject, do your turf tires damage the lawn? I was thinking of putting turfs on for the summer. The R4's rip up the lawn wile turning. Also do you mow with the FEL attached?
Thanks, Ray

P.S. Nice job

hazmat · May 11, 2004

turfs can damage the lawn, but the damage is much less than the R4s. Worst case is a hard turn going forward down hill.

I've found that I can turn tight with out damage by turning while going in reverse. Need to remember to put it in 4wd if trying to back up a hill or the rear tire will spin.

I mow with the loader off.

garbageman · May 11, 2004

I'll take your advice, see what happens this weekend. I don't want to go for $800 for new turfs.
Thanks

hazmat · May 11, 2004

Here's the tub on tub construction

hazmat · May 11, 2004

close up of front.

I haven't poured the top tub yet, but I did stack the remaining sacks of concrete on for a test lift. I remeber a couple people here not being able to lift their ballast box after they made it.

All told, It should weigh about 1,000 lbs if I can get all the concrete in it.

Deerlope · May 12, 2004

Nice looking job. I did a simlar one but I made a form and put a flat piece of steel out the back so I would have a draw bar point without having to take the counter weight off.