Another workshop layout critique

DaveNay · Jul 22, 2005

Attached is my current plan for converting my four car garage into a workshop for the farm. It will be service by a 200A electrical supply, fully insulated and drywalled. Two of the garage doors will be filled in, with the other two remaining for ocasional parking and pulling vehicles in for maintenance. THe ceilings are only 8'4", so I can't install a lift (unless someone knows of a shorty lift with limited height). I plan to do simple woodwork, metal fabrication (milling, welding, etc) as well as maintenance on all the farm equipment. Air will be hard piped throughout.

Any suggestions regarding the layout are fully appreciated. I don't currently own all of the equipment listed, but I will someday. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Thanks,
Dave

hitekcountry · Jul 22, 2005

Dave

I noticed you have your gun safe in the garage. Now that’s convenient, right there with all the tools a gun thief would ever need to get into the safe. Sort of a gun thief’s 7/11. Ah Ok where did you say you live? /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

DaveNay · Jul 22, 2005

The gun safe is a 3" thick fireproof vault that is bolted into the slab from the inside of the cabinet. It probably weighs close to 500 lbs empty. Even in the garage, this is a ton more secure than my guns sitting on a shelf in the closet or leaning in the corner.

Dave

Cliff_Johns · Jul 23, 2005

Interesting that you put your fuel and flamables right on the other side of the wall from the welding table.

Actually, I can't read most of the lettering for some reason, though if you have a printed version when I come out I'd be glad to give you my thoughts.

Cliff

v8dave · Jul 23, 2005

Can't read the layout either printed or on the screen.

But, I offer an observaton on your uses. Don't include wood working equipment with any other machinery, cars or tractors. Sawdust gets into every thing. Woodworking equipment needs to be in its own enclosed area.

Some tips on wiring.
Put your wall receptacles 4' above the floor. That way you can put benches anywhere without covering an outlet. Also, you won't have to bend over to plug anything in. Since it's a shop, you don't need to worry about hiding cords (like in the house).

Wire an receptacle in the ceiling near the area where you're leaving the doors. That way you can put a drop cord in the area where you'll be working on vehicles.

Zone the lights in the shop so you don't have to have them all on when walking through or just woking in one area. Get flourescent lights that will start in cold temps, or else the flickering will drive you crazy. Wire the lights so you can turn then on/off from either end of the shop.

Besides an outlet for your welder where you plan, put another outlet near the dual garage door openings so you can work on vehicles in the driveway. If you haven't decided on the welder put both a 115V (20 amp on a dedicated breaker) and a 230 volt receptacle in both welder locations. Ah heck, put a decicated 115 V, 20 amp receptacle near the doors anyway, you'll need it for any hefty power tools you run working on cars in the driveway.

Put a motor disconnect box at the power feed point for your air compressor. That way you make sure the compressor is safe when dinking with it and have an easy on/off without going into the breaker box.

Run 230 to an outside location where could put an air conditioner later when you decide you really do need one. Also put a weather proof 115 receptacle in the area so you can service the AC too.

If you fancy some neon signs in the future, put some plugs along one wall near the ceiling and have a light switch to turn them on and off.

DaveNay · Jul 23, 2005

OK....let's see if I can get this to work.

Thake a look at this page using Internet Explorer. This should enable you to view a web format drawing that will allow you to zoom in to read the details. It may prompt you to install a small application, but it is free of any malware as far as I know (published by Autodesk).

v8dave, I have an entire list of requirements for the type of ideas you have suggested. Unfortunately, I do not have the available space to split the wood euipment into a seperate area. I will just have to do my best using the shopvac attached to the power tools. 4' high outlets, ceiling outlets and welder access near overhead door are all definitely going to be there. I don't currently own any neon signs, but it is an interesting idea, and I would not object to owning a couple. There will already be an airconditioner installed through the wall, a large room style unit. The compressor disconnect is an excellent idea, and the flourescent lights will definitely be electronic balast.

Thanks
Dave

gmsssi · Jul 23, 2005

Hope the welders on wheels cause you wont get in the safe if not! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

jmc · Jul 23, 2005

Dave,

I can't get the autodesk to work so I'll just make several general comments.

I've run metal working equipment along side woodworking equipment and that sawdust is a pain on greasy cast iron (and mucus membranes). Jerry rigging a shop vac is a pain and only partially effective. Plumbing the shop for serious vacuum may be a big improvement over a shop vac but I've never had the chance to try it.

If you get metalworking equipment, there's a pretty good chance you'll need a phase convertor since most industrial equipment is 3 phase. (Couldn't see the first link well enough to tell)

My shop was drywalled but when I added on to it, I used perforated steel siding instead, for sound deadening. If you're not aware of it, the pole barn steel suppliers make it for building liners. The perforations let the sound be absorbed by the insulation in the wall. You can really tell a difference between the old and new parts of the shop. (used it on the ceiling and walls) It comes in a selection of colors and cut to any length you want, in about 3 foot widths. Might even be cheaper than drywall if you include taping, finishing, and painting. Downside of it may be those perforations around sparks. Also, it cuts down on wireless reception if you do every surface.

No matter what you may want to change later, you got the most important thing right: its big!

John

phxraptor · Jul 23, 2005

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The gun safe is a 3" thick fireproof vault that is bolted into the slab from the inside of the cabinet. It probably weighs close to 500 lbs empty. Even in the garage, this is a ton more secure than my guns sitting on a shelf in the closet or leaning in the corner. Had a friend whose gun vault was taken from inside his home when they broke in. The vault was inside his closet,weighed 800 lbs empty and was bolted from the inside to the wall studs. The point is why put it in the garage where everyone who enters there can see it and knows where it is? And as was said all those tools and a welder would be a thiefs 7-11 to get that safe out or emptied. Just a thought.

Dave )</font>

budman72 · Jul 25, 2005

Have you considered putting the bay doors in the middle, then putting metal working equipment on one side and woodworking on the other? You might be able to get some type of partition that would help keep the sawdust off the metal working equipment.

Also, get a real dust collector, a shop vac won't cut it for large volumes, not to mention the noise factor.

Bud