Any good online reference for chicken coop design?

[strantor]

Yes, I know that if I Google it, I'll get thousands of results for chicken coop plans and ideas. That's the problem. There are SO MANY results that sifting through them is daunting. I'm not looking for plans, and that's what 95% of the results are. I'm looking for the background concepts upon which good coops are designed. Something that answers questions like, why are almost all coops elevated off the ground? What's the purpose of a run? Etc.

I'm not expecting anyone here to write me a thesis on the topic because I'm sure someone already has. Just point me toward it, please. I can't find it among the heaps of less-than-helpful info clogging my search results. Much appreciated, thanks.

 

[widefat]

Yes, I know that if I Google it, I'll get thousands of results for chicken coop plans and ideas. That's the problem. There are SO MANY results that sifting through them is daunting. I'm not looking for plans, and that's what 95% of the results are. I'm looking for the background concepts upon which good coops are designed. Something that answers questions like, why are almost all coops elevated off the ground? What's the purpose of a run? Etc.

I'm not expecting anyone here to write me a thesis on the topic because I'm sure someone already has. Just point me toward it, please. I can't find it among the heaps of less-than-helpful info clogging my search results. Much appreciated, thanks.

The countryside network, countrysidenetwork.com, is a fairly good site for general info. We take their print magazine; an enjoyable read.
You will need to submit your email to get the guide. It may help.

Chicken Housing: Everything you need to know about chicken coop designs for the best coops - Countryside Network

 

[TnAndy]

Reason there are a million designs out there is chickens will live in almost anything. The keys are keep them out of cold winds, out of hot sun (like most living things), and locked up at night if you have night predators like raccoons.

 

[kcflhrc]

I'm of the mind set bigger is better and our girls love their big coop and run. I see coop's that are way too small for the amount of birds people have. I have 8 birds right now and my set up could easily have 30 birds. I think about the birds and what they would want to live in comfortably. My birds are locked up in the run and coop all day, I let them outside in the evenings and then lock them up again at bed time. Ours was an existing structure that we added on to. As you can see in the pic the run on the right and coop on the left. This was before I put in 4 windows.

 

[Larry Caldwell]

Chicken Tractor 11: What It Is & the Basics of Building One - Modern Farmer

 

[ning]

I'm also in the process of designing a new coop. I constructed our current coop about 23 years ago, and it needs replacement.

Some things I've learned in the last couple decades:
- I don't have predators that will aggressively attack the coop (occasionally we've left the coop door open and nobody got eaten, though I wouldn't do this on a regular basis as predators probably don't check my coop often at night because... it's typically closed up)
- The roof of my chicken run -- the run is actually where the birds roost for the most part unless it's really cold -- doesn't have enough overhang and the run gets really messy with heavy rains. Consider more overhang & proper drainage away from where the birds make a mess
- You'd be amazed at how small of a hole a mouse can, and will, go through, and proceed to eat much of the birds' supplemental food (they eat as much as they can outside, but when they're cooped up they'll eat from the feeder). 1/2" chicken wire, or square mesh, is required to keep rats out, and possibly smaller for mice.
- Our run originally had heavy square mesh under a layer of dirt below the floor to discourage digging intrusions. 20 years later, this is disintegrating, no big surprise.

I've always had an adjacent structure which is the chicken house that's somewhat connected to the run but is its own separate structure.

Things I'm considering for the next run:
Concrete slab - much easier to clean out and nothing can dig into it.
Bigger - my current run is 8' x 16', supplemented by a "temporary" run that we've used for a variety of purposes, it's made of 1"PVC + ?1/2" square mesh, and it's currently up against the chicken house and provides more run, and is about 10'x10' (mesh roof - water goes right in). I'd like the new run to be at least the size of these two together, for about 25 birds, because from time to time the birds are kept in for a week if we're away or weather is terrible.
House - Consider where & how the chickens will roost in the house and make sure you have an easy way into the chicken house to clean & collect eggs. My chicken's house has translucent greenhouse panels as its roof and that works really nicely to keep it from being too dark until night. My hens for the most part prefer to roost in their (covered) run all year long and only go in if it's well below freezing for a while.
Enclosed space to store food - currently we use metal trash cans behind the coop to store bags in; they're inconvenient, the lids need sealing, and they're ugly. I'd like an area that is rodent- and water- proof to store enough food for a month.

Things I did right the first time:
- Under trees -- reduces how much heat the birds are subjected to during the hot summer
- Light socket -- mine hooks up temporarily with an extension cord in the heart of winter. Used for either a light with a timer & dimmer, to help heat & provide just a bit of light stimulation, or just with a ceramic heater (these are great, can give the hens a rest from laying but still provide heat, make sure you have a dimmer so you can adjust the heat as they really cook, and put a cage around the unit because they can get really hot - and keep them clean!)
- Real roof over the run -- even though mine doesn't have the best overhang, having a real roof is nice to provide a decent environment for the birds for those weeks of solid rain when you don't want to go outside to let the birds out... or when you do anyways, but they don't go outside because it sucks. The run stays essentially dry and the birds do too. Make it tall enough that you can walk under the roof without bumping your head.

Re chicken tractors -- I can see these if you segment your flock into smaller quantities of birds. I have about 25 (I'll have to ask the bobcat if it's been successful recently) and i'm not sure if I can design a decent chicken tractor for a larger group of birds (mostly the "run" of the tractor) - and if I do, should I bother with a main coop/run? That's kinda under discussion currently at home, especially in light of said bobcat's activities the last few months.

 

[strantor]

Thank you everyone for your input. I have followed up on the suggestions and come up with a design. I like certain aspects of the chicken tractor idea, but some other aspects I don't. My plan is a chicken tractor (ish) coop combined with free ranging.

Things I like about chicken tractor:
1. no floor, no bottom to clean out.
2. continuous/daily movement to cover property with natural fertilizer and pest control

Things I don't:
1. cheap construction; Most chicken tractors look shoddy (this is really my wife's thing. She's the one with standards and wants it to be aesthetically pleasing) and structurally weak.
2. light weight, would blow away in my area (Texas gulf coast, hurricane country)
3. chickens seem cramped in there; would like to see them roaming around, being chickens
4. takes an adult to move it
5. The bottom part is almost always wood, which rots in contact with earth.

So here's what I've come up with; please provide constructive criticism. If any changes are needed then I would rather do them now, before I get too far along.


(roof ridge cap not shown, nor wheels)

It's a simple structure designed mostly around the dimensions of the scrap R-Panel I have on hand. some details:
1. It has no floor
2. The narrower end walls are hinged. With both doors open, it would be like an open corridor. One door will be open for the birds to come in/out. The other end will be the back side of the nesting boxes, so it can be opened to easily retrieve the eggs.
3. It is a wooden structure constructed of treated 2x4s skinned in R-panel, but sits on a metal frame which will contact the ground. In my experience metal takes a lot longer to decompose in contact with earth.
4. It has wheels centered on the coop, which are mounted on offset arms. The wheels can be easily rotated up, so that the coops sits on the ground, or down, lifting the coop up, to be moved.
5. It is longer and wider than it is tall, and is stout, relatively heavy, presents a low center of gravity and low wind profile, to keep it from blowing away. Despite being heavy, the wheel lift arms have a very high leverage factor and with the weight centered on the wheels it should be easy for my 7y/o daughter to lift it and move it to a new location (this will be her chore).




I have purchased 500ft of welded wire fence and 70 t-posts from which to construct temporary/semi-permanent paddocks. The plan is to cordon off about 1/4 acre of property at a time and move the coop around inside there daily. I have 5 birds currently and I plan to get 5 more. If I can leave them in the same 1/4 acre all year without them depleting it, then I will shift the paddock around each year, planting my garden (about the same 1/4 acre) in the place they were the year before.

 

[Guidshir]

The coop needs to fit what you want and your land. I think it'll be different for everyone.
I built one a few years ago. I wanted to get to the eggs and nests, and feed and water without stepping inside the run where the mess is. That way it's easier for my kids to do the chore and nobody tracks poop around. I also wanted room so I built a 16'x40' run with a smaller coop inside. I built mine in the woods behind my house immediately behind my back fence. Water hose from house fills up 5gal bucket at coop which gravity feeds a nipple system. The nesting box door opens up to my back yard through the run fence where I have a covered box (made from pallets) for a hay bale to handle the nests. The run fence has a door in it about 1.5'x1.5" that I use to feed. Immediately inside the run next to the coop is a small covered area that has a feeder on a small chain/hook so I can feed without going inside. The coop has a wire floor 2" off the ground so all of the poop falls through. It has a window (more light) and a hatch I open in the summer to give them some more light and airflow.

That all works well, but there have been a few problems. The coop floor is made of hardware cloth, I think 1/2" which can clog up sometime and so I have to go knock the dried poop off. That's annoying. I would use chicken wire or something with bigger holes. The hens jump from the roosts onto the wire floor and some of them are beefy so I would use stronger wire. I would also make the roof from that clear plastic corrugated roofing material instead of opaque to let more light in.

The run itself is buried wire into the ground on the edges at least a foot, but the moisture has disintegrated that wire and so they have escaped a few times by digging and I have had to bolster the edges with logs and stones. I'm not sure how to fix that, except maybe use that black plastic chicken netting instead since it won't rot. My run was completely covered on top (to keep out hawks) with chicken wire, but cleaning the leaves and debris off has been a hassle. I've had supports break because leaves collected, then snow, then ice and the weight breaks things. I would switch to fishing line on top probably. It's cheap and full coverage isn't needed to prevent big birds from avoiding the area. That wouldn't keep out smaller animals, but I'm not sure that's needed. My coop (inside the run) has a hatch door that lets down and latches (controlled from the yard), but I haven't needed to use it because the run is tight.

I used a screen door for human access the run which fell apart pretty quick. Not sure what else could be done.

But for some time and a few hundred bucks and a pile of stables and screw I have had a sturdy coop that lets me manage things from my own yard without having to go into the mess and clean, etc.

I have had up to 30 hens in this area (the coop is 5'x10') and they have been happy and not crowded.

 

[strantor]

I don't have a run because I want my birds "free range." I don't want to feed them (to the extent possible); I want free eggs. I want them out there eating weeds and bugs. If I'm just trading the egg bill for a chicken feed bill, then I don't see the point. I will make sack food available to them (especially in winter) but I don't want them sustained on it.

 

[Guidshir]

the sales of my eggs pay for the feed and I still have all I can eat. But free range chickens tend to die a lot. I know a few who have tried and depending on the surroundings they lose up to 1 a day. no thanks.

 

[FTG-05]

You have a 46 hp tractor, presumably with a FEL? Make a HD chicken coop and move it with the tractor like I did:

I then put it in the middle of my dog run in the middle of my Poplar grove (think: shade from the sun).

Some tips and tricks that I used when designing and building my chicken coop:

- Make it bigger than you think you need (applies to gun safes, tractors, chainsaws, etc. etc. etc.)
- Make it so you don't have to bend over to: get eggs, clean it or anything else.
- Up armor-it depending on what predator threats you face. See pics below.
- "Chicken wire/fencing" is only good for keeping chickens in - it won't keep any predators out.
- Make your own feeders and waters; I feed mine about once a month (feeder holds +50 lbs of feed plus they free range, hence it lasts a long time). Same with waterers. See Backyardchickens.com for pics and ideas, tons of articles over there.
- I made a cheap chicken run using two 10x10x6' former chain link dog runs off of CL for about $100 each.
- Super cheap chicken treats: Cracked corn, scratch, dry dog and cat food. Meal worms are like crack but $$$, not worth it to me.

Hope this helps! Good luck.

 

[strantor]

You have a 46 hp tractor, presumably with a FEL? Make a HD chicken coop and move it with the tractor like I did:

That was my first thought and I went back and forth a lot on it before I decided to give it it's own wheels. Would have been much simpler. I decided against it because I don't want to have to be the one to move it all the time. Starting/warming up the tractor each day, moving the coop, putting the tractor away, a 5 minute chore turns into 30 minutes. And we get a LOT of rain here and my property doesn't drain well. I would have a muddy rut lot before long. I only drive the tractor on the lawn when it's dry unless forced to do otherwise. With the coop having it's own wheels and being easily movable, I can send the kids out to do it, and it can be moved even when the ground is wet.

All that being said, I really like your coop. Very slick, looks very robust.

 

[strantor]

the sales of my eggs pay for the feed and I still have all I can eat. But free range chickens tend to die a lot. I know a few who have tried and depending on the surroundings they lose up to 1 a day. no thanks.

Why do they lose chickens? Predators? Disease? Other? Are they actual free range, as in no fences? Because these 10 chickens are going to be in a fence but they'll have access to at least 1/4 acre at a time.

I like the idea of making money on eggs but I don't like the idea of trying to sell them. I'm already running a business and I don't need another one. But my wife might. I hadn't considered pawning egg sales off on her. If she's keen, maybe we get even more chickens and start a little side business.

Would you mind sharing details about selling your eggs? Like how many chickens you have, how much you sell eggs for and how many eggs you sell? How do you get the word out about your eggs for sale?

 

[strantor]

Made lots of progress today. Almost done. Just need to go get some hinges for the other door and some hardware cloth to seal it up. Also I need to put some sort of handles on the wheel lift arms and some way to lock them in the down position. I'll figure it out tomorrow.

 

[Ranger Rick]

I built my coop on an old hay wagon. I can move it around the fields so there is always new bugs and grass for them to eat The roost is at the back of the wagon and has 1x2 welded wire under it so the poop falls to the ground. The remainder of the floor is 2x2s with 1 1/2" gap between them so half of any poop falls to the ground but it is strong enough to walk on. The windows cut outs can be put back in during the winter to reduce wind inside. The roof is polycarbonate panels to let light in. I use electric netting fence to keep the chickens in and predators out.

 

[strantor]

I built my coop on an old hay wagon. I can move it around the fields so there is always new bugs and grass for them to eat The roost is at the back of the wagon and has 1x2 welded wire under it so the poop falls to the ground. The remainder of the floor is 2x2s with 1 1/2" gap between them so half of any poop falls to the ground but it is strong enough to walk on. The windows cut outs can be put back in during the winter to reduce wind inside. The roof is polycarbonate panels to let light in. I use electric netting fence to keep the chickens in and predators out.

View attachment 601203

Wow! That's impressive. I considered buying an old boat trailer to put it on. I found one under $200 but needed new wheels. Ultimately just used what I had laying around.

 

[Jstpssng]

Why do they lose chickens? Predators? Disease? Other? Are they actual free range, as in no fences? Because these 10 chickens are going to be in a fence but they'll have access to at least 1/4 acre at a time.

I like the idea of making money on eggs but I don't like the idea of trying to sell them. I'm already running a business and I don't need another one. But my wife might. I hadn't considered pawning egg sales off on her. If she's keen, maybe we get even more chickens and start a little side business.

Would you mind sharing details about selling your eggs? Like how many chickens you have, how much you sell eggs for and how many eggs you sell? How do you get the word out about your eggs for sale?

Predators. even if you have a fence, unless it's well covered raccoons and hawks will still get in. Electric might keep the former out, but I don't know how you would keep your birds from flying over it. I can go for several years without losing a bird; but once a predator finds an easy meal they will keep coming back. Contrary to what Disney says, they will go on a kill fest; killing everything they can find, but only eating one or two. While I try to mitigate it, losing an occasional bird is an acceptable loss; although I was quite PO'ed when coyotes took one of my full grown turkeys in broad daylight last year.
It's also almost impossible to keep weasels out. They wiped out (32) 3 week old chicks one morning which I had just moved into the coop; then two years later wiped out almost all of my laying flock (8 birds). Since I moved my coop from under the trees into the open 5 years ago I haven't had a weasel problem. They are prey as well as predator; and don't like crossing open spaces.

I have a 6x10 foot coop with a 12x18 foot enclosed outdoor pen, which they can use when I'm not around to let them free range. After 5 years there isn't much for them to scratch at though. I've thought about throwing an occasional hay bale in, but don't want to introduce more seed, as I will eventually move the coop and that seems like a good spot for a garden.

Even when free ranging they still need feed; they will eat in the morning, go out and scratch then go back around noon to fill up on more feed. They actually eat more in summer, when free ranging than in winter when they are less active and not laying.

 

[Guidshir]

Why do they lose chickens? Predators? Disease? Other? Are they actual free range, as in no fences? Because these 10 chickens are going to be in a fence but they'll have access to at least 1/4 acre at a time.

I like the idea of making money on eggs but I don't like the idea of trying to sell them. I'm already running a business and I don't need another one. But my wife might. I hadn't considered pawning egg sales off on her. If she's keen, maybe we get even more chickens and start a little side business.

Would you mind sharing details about selling your eggs? Like how many chickens you have, how much you sell eggs for and how many eggs you sell? How do you get the word out about your eggs for sale?

The ones I know are entirely free range and usually on 20+ acres. Predators are the main issue, from hawks to raccoons, etc.
I work an office job, so I just sell a dozen to co-workers for the same price as eggs in the store, but my eggs are better. If it were a lot of work I wouldn't do it. I know some people who eat 2-3 dozen a week. If I end up with surplus I give them away as a starter to get more sales.

 

[Guidshir]

I built my coop on an old hay wagon. I can move it around the fields so there is always new bugs and grass for them to eat The roost is at the back of the wagon and has 1x2 welded wire under it so the poop falls to the ground. The remainder of the floor is 2x2s with 1 1/2" gap between them so half of any poop falls to the ground but it is strong enough to walk on. The windows cut outs can be put back in during the winter to reduce wind inside. The roof is polycarbonate panels to let light in. I use electric netting fence to keep the chickens in and predators out.

View attachment 601203

That is a great coop. I need to try that some day.

 

[FTG-05]

That was my first thought and I went back and forth a lot on it before I decided to give it it's own wheels. Would have been much simpler. I decided against it because I don't want to have to be the one to move it all the time. Starting/warming up the tractor each day, moving the coop, putting the tractor away, a 5 minute chore turns into 30 minutes. And we get a LOT of rain here and my property doesn't drain well. I would have a muddy rut lot before long. I only drive the tractor on the lawn when it's dry unless forced to do otherwise. With the coop having it's own wheels and being easily movable, I can send the kids out to do it, and it can be moved even when the ground is wet.

All that being said, I really like your coop. Very slick, looks very robust.

My bad: I missed the part about having kids.

By all means, put them to to work, it will make them better adults.