Any paving contractors out there? Need some advice

[Chvypowa]

Looking to get my home driveway paved. It currently has a deep base of hard compact crusher run. The most recent contractor had proposed two options:

Option A- 2 1/2" fine type 6 asphalt

Option B- 2" Type 3 binder bottom course+ 1 1/2" Type 7 top course

Option B, being the +$1600 option.


Will option A hold up our should I go with option B?

 

[roadhunter]

I'd spend the $ and go with the thicker option to avoid issues down the road. 2-1/2" asphalt is not that durable IMO. I'm in the middle of replacing about 5,000 sq ft that was damaged inside a state park by some of our dump trucks. Most of the stuff that broke up was about 2 inches thick. All the 4" material seemed to hold up.

 

[Rustyiron]

It's all in the base (dirt, gravel) stability and the proper compaction of any asphalt lift's. Most driveway guy's have a little junky 1 ton static roller and usually a skeleton crew and the initial "break down" rolling takes place long after it should have. The material has by then, cooled too much for any hope for their little roller to get proper compaction. The roller should almost follow the paver for the initial breakdown pass. I'm sure there are plenty of guy's out there that do a good job, it's just that to be "competitive" with the guy's that only want to "make it black" and take your check, they also cut corners. Depending on your sriveway size, the $1600 for a base layer seem's good. Let them do it in August, the hotter the better! Ask them about the base layer, it should have at least 19mm (3/4") stone in it, a good heavy base has 25mm but requires a "real" roller, like the road crews, to get compaction.

 

[davesl708]

I just went through replacing my three lane drive. I had asphalt and got bids to replace. The asphalt bids were around 2/3rds the cost of concrete. I opted for concrete. Concrete will last beyond my lifetime and I will not be worried about freeze/thaw breakup and water permeating. Easier to clear the snow without damage.

 

[Chvypowa]

Thanks Guys! this helps!

 

[vtsnowedin]

Retired paving inspector here. :2cents:I take it your drive is about 185 square yards in area? Is option A applied in a single lift or two? Two is better as you can get better compaction with what ever rollers they have and it's much easier to get a good smooth finish coat if your paving over a paved base.
Option B will last longer then you will if the base is as you say.

 

[Chvypowa]

Retired paving inspector here. :2cents:I take it your drive is about 185 square yards in area? Is option A applied in a single lift or two? Two is better as you can get better compaction with what ever rollers they have and it's much easier to get a good smooth finish coat if your paving over a paved base.
Option B will last longer then you will if the base is as you say.

You are close!!! Driveway is 2,500 sqft (278 sqyd). What do you mean "single lift or two"??

 

[Soundguy]

Wow... what are you guys running in a driveway that need 4" asphalt!!

They do county roads herewith less than 2.5".

 

[vtsnowedin]

You are close!!! Driveway is 2,500 sqft (278 sqyd). What do you mean "single lift or two"??

For option A an experienced crew would put down a first course or layer that averaged 1 1/2" compacted. Roll it and let it cool. Then go back and place a top course of the same mix to a rolled thickness of one inch. The first course fills in any holes or defects in your fine grading job so it's actual thickness will vary a bit from place to place but the top coat having a smooth firm surface to work on can hold a very close tolerance on the thickness. Each layer you add can be smoother then the one before it. The smoother the fine graded and well compacted base your paving on the better as you don't want to waste mix filling ruts and holes or have a bump in the base make a thin spot in your pavement. A delivery truck weighs just as much sitting in your driveway as it did running down the state highway so having a good thick pavement on a relatively small drive is not a waste.
I was estimating $100/ton in place to guesstimate you drive size so your local prices must be below that.
Edit to add On double checking your first post I see I plugged in the wrong thickness factor for the difference between the two options. you are just about $100 /ton which is pretty typical.

 

[Jstpssng]

Wow... what are you guys running in a driveway that need 4" asphalt!!

They do county roads herewith less than 2.5".

You don't have frost down there. It can move rocks and culverts like you wouldn't believe!