When it comes to plain old category-1 3 point hookups, some tractors are much easier than others. Changeing implements on my 1951, Ford 8n is a piece of cake. This is no surprise because this is the tractor series that brought us the first 3 point, and I doubt any tractor manufactured since, and lacking some type of quick-hitch arrangement, is easier to hitch. It started getting tougher to attach implements after Henry died and his succesors added lots ofextra lbs to the n-series, back in 1953, with the naa. At under 2500 lbs, the 8n is light enough that it can be easily rocked forward and back by hand to make the lower link hookups. A nice crank handle on one side eliminates the need for the implement to be perfectly level. The link bushings are also shorter and have a little more clearance to the pins than on most modern tractors. The hydraulic lift lever can be reached easily from the back while hitching. Old Henry knew what he was doing when he designed that tractor, and no one ever needed a quick hitch, Pat's, or anything else to change fast. By comparison, it is such a pain to change implements on my new JD 4120, that I keep the changes on that tractor to 3-4 a year. It is over a 1000 lbs heavier than the 8n making it tough to roll, the lift lever is quite a reach, the link bushings are long and very tight, and the leveling crank is not nearly as smooth as on that old Ford. Luckily, like SG, I have plenty of tractors, but only one that is a breeze to change implements on. I readily admit that there is no tractor designed since that I like more than the 8n and that is due in a very large part to the ease of implement change.
Any tips for 1 man implement hook-up?
- Thread starter mburke121
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foggy1111
Elite Member
Sooooo....at last it comes out!! That is why you went to a pull-type disc instead of 3 point models. You can't hook 'em up. :laughing::laughing::laughing:
Foggy, you may want to give a pull-disc a try to see what you are missing, or, even a rototiller. Lots of folks who have personally used both a pull-type and a 3-point disc, prefer the pull-type. There are a handfull, like yourself with no personal pull-type experience, or those who stand to profit from sale of 3-points, who are strong proponents of that type. Similarly, most folks with smaller acreages and who have used both a tiller and 3-point disc, prefer the tiller. Note that the common, least liked denominator here, is the 3-point disc. Heck, I was stubborn myself and went far to long without 4wd (partly due to my affection for that old 8n). We can all learn as we go along, and as I have explained to you in the past, 4wd and a pull-type disc has cut my fuel use by more than half compared to 2wd, 3-point disc, and my spring planting gets done an average of 1 month earlier. Good luck and happy hunting to you whatever you decide.
Gale Hawkins
Super Member
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- 1948 Allis Chambers Model B 1976 265 MF / 1983 JD 310B Backhoe / 1966 Ford 3000 Diesel / 1980 3600 Diesel
In the triange shaped 1/4 acre garden 3PH has it hands down. In the field a wheeled type is 10X better for depth and leveling. Put the wheels in the air and the pedal to the metal. 
The last 15 years my dad farm He "broke" his ground with the disk and seldom hitch to the three bottom plows. That was not possible with the 3PH disks we owned.
The last 15 years my dad farm He "broke" his ground with the disk and seldom hitch to the three bottom plows. That was not possible with the 3PH disks we owned.
You got that right GH, but the tiller still has it over the 3pt disc on a little garden. For a bit larger acreages, I probably would not go as far as saying a pull-type disc is 10X as effective as a 3pt but I know for certain it is at least 2X, having owned and/or operated a couple of 3 pts and 5-6 pull types over 40 some years of farming. It is refreshing to hear from a stronger proponent of the pull-type than myself, especially on this site which is so dominated by the CUT guys. I think I would say that a pull-type is 4-5 times as effective, on average, when you throw in ease of hitching, how much more level it leaves the field on every pass, how many less passes it takes, how much less weight is required on each disc to get better results, how much easier it pulls per unit width, and how much less fuel it requires to get the job done. Foggy is right that hitching difficulty played a part in my dislike of the 3-point disc, but a small part compared to effectiveness and efficiency. Most smaller implements, including plow, row-planter, spring tooth harrow, terracing blades, ditchers, pond scoops, and rotary mower took quite a step forward with the 3point hitch. The disc is the only one I can think of that lost a few.
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Gale Hawkins
Super Member
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- 1948 Allis Chambers Model B 1976 265 MF / 1983 JD 310B Backhoe / 1966 Ford 3000 Diesel / 1980 3600 Diesel
With the 801's we used the Ford Flexohitch disks and that helped some but when dad got his 10' Birch with a 4000 he was in hog heaven.
CUT thinking rules here just because it is for the most part a CUT site. If one has never farmed or used normal size equipment I am sure the CUT lines works well for them. Some apps only a CUT makes sense.
I have never used a tractor tiller but see a lot of farmers using them to prep for tobacco these days. They do an awesome job.
CUT thinking rules here just because it is for the most part a CUT site. If one has never farmed or used normal size equipment I am sure the CUT lines works well for them. Some apps only a CUT makes sense.
I have never used a tractor tiller but see a lot of farmers using them to prep for tobacco these days. They do an awesome job.
J_J
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Soundguy
Old Timer
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- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
I know when I first disc'd my 10ac patch.. I parked my 6.5' old 3pt ford disc and used a 12' jd pull disc.. made powder out of it.. .. it's just too big for small stuff though.
neighbor sold his tractor but still has his disc.. and a ton of other implements.. he won't sell none of them. has a nice chissle tooth harrow, 3 bottom plow and that disc.. and won't sell none of them..
soundguy
soundguy
neighbor sold his tractor but still has his disc.. and a ton of other implements.. he won't sell none of them. has a nice chissle tooth harrow, 3 bottom plow and that disc.. and won't sell none of them..
soundguy
soundguy
jenkinsph
Super Star Member
Congrats on the new tractor.:thumbsup:
Once you get all the implements setup it really make changing them out super easy. Top and tilt also makes hookup easier too, hope you have that too.
jojo200517
New member
I solved that problem by just leaving each attachment on a tractor.. no problem changing attachments either
glad you got something working out good for you.
soundguy
I'm not that rich either, heck I don't even have money for a fancy shmancy quick hitch that still wouldn't do me crap good with putting on my most dreaded implement the post hole digger. In fact i'd have to take it off out of the way before putting it on.
For most of the stuff I just use backing up as precise as possible along with muscle and leverage to hook it up. I don't have nearly enough room to store anything inside so wheeled dollies wouldn't do me much good. After bending some smaller diameter bars and snapping a couple 2x4's prying around 3pt hitch disk and brush cutter I found a good prying solution.
Had a friend that did road construction get me a slightly damaged used road sign post. It was one of the galvanized heavy duty types not the thin stamped sheet metal ones. Someone had hit it with a car and bent it near one end so I just cut it off with the portaband and was left with about 7 feet of good solid prying power. The way it is shaped the cupped side digs in if the ground is soft and doesn't slip as much.
As far as moving implements to mow under them and stuff, I used to do that with the boom pole and a chain. Then I invested in a 15 gallon sprayer and roundup, even less work than moving and mowing with a quick hitch would be.:thumbsup: