Anyone built a tractor cab?

[JerryG]

an early 80s ford pickup heater core costs around 16 dollars new from advance auto and is a good size to make fit up to a computer fan, thats what my kawasaki mule heater was made from, actualy 2 fans, one fan on for low and 2 for hi

Are the fans that you used 12v?

 

[shaley]

With your Ford pickup setup, does it heat things up pretty well? Also, when you plumbed it, did you tap into the system between the water pump and the radiator?

Check your water pump they usually have a pipe plug in an extra outlet port all setup for a heater core.
We build alot of enclosures for boats around here because Rock fish season gets started in Dec. and runs through Mar. an it's cold out there. Most any boat canvas shop builds then out of clear vinyl and vinyl covered fabric. Look up Stratoglass on google. Most curtains and full enclosures use a track at the top and snaps at the bottom to hold the panels in place.

 

[markct]

the fans i used were 12 volt, they were the type used in computers, i worked in a factory that made those type fans at that time so it was no problem to get them! my mule i made an adapter that moved the thermostat out and had a port coming off it so i could plumb it in before the thermostat like a car heater is. only trouble is that the mule doesnt realy have enough flow, it makes good heat but i think since the radiator hoses are only the size of heater hose there may be a better way to hook it up, maybe in series, i dont know how the factory mule heaters are hooked up. it tends to be a tricky balance between flow to the heater and enough flow to keep it circulating thru the engine, basicly it flows back thru the heater easier than up into the engine i think

 

[DDT]

Try this one. if the link works. 1-20-03 cab in progress in build it yourself
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/20117-cab-progress.html

 

[eanjay]

Great thread! You really did a great job on that Cab as everyone noted. How did it work out for you? Are you still using it?

EanJay

 

[PILOON]

Hi
I made a cab for my MT180-D about 9-10 years back.
I made a pair of frames using 1.5" x 1.5" sq tubing and then welded cross bars to form the width of the cab.
I then had sheared some 16g. galvanized stock to form the roof and had flanged formed to create gutters on both sides and made the top 6" longer than the frame to create 'eaves' front and back.
For the front and back I again hat sheet stock cut and formed.
The top and ends were simply attached to the tubing frame with self tapping metal screws.
Foe front and back windshields I went to scrap yard and purchased (real cheap) school bus windows c/w the rubber seals and simply traced out the glass and cut out the hole to accept the windows and seals.
This was accomplished with a jigsaw and fine tooth metal blade.
For my heater I got from the same scrap yard an 'under the seat' school bus heater core (about 6" x 6" x 2" thick) and converted the blower over to a computer 12 volt 'muffin fan'.
This I did as the origional fan moter was fairly large and inefficient as well drew high amps vs the puter fan is extreemly efficient and uses a mere 1 amp or less.
The side pannels are merely thick clear plastic as used for awnings and attached with 1/2 dowels and metal screws.
Works great, minimal cost to build and hot enough to blow snow in coldest days with minimal outerwear.

Trial and error proved that the heater, blowing downwards, and located high over the hydraulic controls was the best location, keeps feet warm, not to hot in face and can be deflected towards front w/s.
Also the floor area was the hardest to seal off due to hoses, pedals etc etc hence the place that needed it the most and since heat rises there is plenty for the balance of the cab.
Actually after about 10 mins I either remouve my jacket or shut off the fan.

 

[PILOON]

ADDENDUM:
The school bus heater is available new and is made by CARTER and should be in the local autoparts CARTER catalog.
I have since seen it listd.

Also you will note that on my ceiling I sandwiched a quilted insulation material before screwing on the roof.
This I did to prevent condensation dripping down and it proved to also dampen any drumming noises as well as contribute overall to a quieter cab.
Only problem is that the snow/ice does not melt off easily and needs to be chipped/hacked away.
I used galvanized metal plate for long term maintainance reasons and certainly not for beauty.
But hey, it works!

 

[eanjay]

Interesting post, many thanks! Still considering the options, wether to build or buy. Had thought about a metal frame and perhaps doing something up in fibreglass. Still researching options at this point.

Once again, thanks for the input.

Cheers - EanJay