Anyone done the 600hr front axle pivot or 800 hr engine valve clearance adjustment?

[tjkubota93]

Thanks for the comments guys. I have a related question: richeyvs implies that maladjusted valves would lead to cold start problems. If my engine starts easily can I put it off indefinitely


No. Bad idea. Adjust as required by service manual. Adjustment makes up for wear of parts. It will cause increased wear or runability problems before it is hard to start.

 

[xring100]

so tell me why diesels need valve adjustments while no other gas vehicles with solid lifters do.

Tecumseh engines expecially exhaust valve beg to differ. The adjustment is to just grind the valve stem My goldwing does every 32k and all my dirt bikes / quads do as well they dont move too often.

 

[ritcheyvs]

Tecumseh engines expecially exhaust valve beg to differ. The adjustment is to just grind the valve stem ...

This (grind valve stem) method is typical for flat-head engines, where the valves are in the block next to the cylinder. Those valves always get tighter with wear so "removing metal" from the valve works.

 

[IslandTractor]

Guys I found the following comment in an older thread on the same topic in the Kubota forum(poster was rScotty):

"Decades ago valves and seats used to wear more than they do now. Chances are the clearance is just fine and hasn't changed. It's a good idea to check at that many hours....but if they are anywhere close to spec I'd leave them alone. That said, it's a job that anyone can do the first time just fine - given basic engine knowledge and a workshop manual - but it's also the kind of picky job that goes smoother with experience.
rScotty"

What do you think? And, let me ask again, has anyone here actually even checked much less adjusted the valves at 800hrs??

 

[oldpilgrim]

My first car was a model A Ford, which I still have. Other than when I rebuilt the engine, the valves were never adjusted, since 1962. I have several model T's, same situation. I've had many other cars over the years as well and never had to adjust the valves except at engine rebuild time. I've never adjusted valves on any generator, mower, tractor, etc, including my 1953 Ferguson which I've used hard for 25 years. Maybe there is a 'schedule' for all engines, but I've never seen one except on my diesel.

 

[k0ua]

Guys I found the following comment in an older thread on the same topic in the Kubota forum(poster was rScotty):

"Decades ago valves and seats used to wear more than they do now. Chances are the clearance is just fine and hasn't changed. It's a good idea to check at that many hours....but if they are anywhere close to spec I'd leave them alone. That said, it's a job that anyone can do the first time just fine - given basic engine knowledge and a workshop manual - but it's also the kind of picky job that goes smoother with experience.
rScotty"

What do you think? And, let me ask again, has anyone here actually even checked much less adjusted the valves at 800hrs??

I am about 405 hours and several years from being there. So Indy "into the great unknown you go first!" to paraphrase a line from "the temple of doom".

 

[npalen]

Reviewing my DK40se maintenance schedule chart I see that my tractor hours are coming close to a few adjustment items I haven't done before. Has anyone done the front axle pivot adjustment or the engine valve clearance adjustment? I do all maintenance services myself (tractor is on an island) so am trying to figure out how involved these are. Anything needed other than feeler gauges and wrenches?

I would think that a quick check on the front axle pivot could be done by jacking the front wheels off the ground or raise them with the FEL is so equipped. Any excessive wear in the axle pivot should show up by grabbing a front wheel and trying to wiggle it front to rear.
Perhaps the adjustment, however, for the front axle is easy enough to do. I'm not familiar with that.

 

[Looking4new]

Many moons ago I had an old mechanic teach me how to adjust valves by 'ear'.
One at a time starting at one end or the other, with the engine warmed up to operating temperature, loosen the first lock nut. Turn the screw out (loosen) and listen for the tappet to start its' inevitable 'clacking', then tighten the screw until you hear the engine stumble and then turn to a point in between the 'clacking' and the 'stumble' and lock the nut. You are good to go on that valve. Do that one at a time with all the rest.
The unfortunate thing is that the old guy that taught me that is dead so I can't argue with him on it.

 

[DirtHauler]

Don't know how the DK40 compares to the CK30 but one of the PITA things is you have to remove the right loader mount in order to get to the timing "window" on the right hand side of the clutch housing, the various pieces of engine including the exhaust system just to remove the rocker cover and yes remove the glow plugs too. When I decided to mine, it was at 4,500 hrs. and they weren't that bad as far as needing adjustment. Oh, and get your self a good set of angled metric feeler gauges.
As far the front pivot, just raise the tractor via the loader, loosen the lock nut, turn bolt in until it's fairly "snug" then back out 1/8 turn, tighten lock nut. I do mine this way all the time.

 

[IslandTractor]

Thanks for the tips Dirthauler. Thanks also for relaying your experience of waiting until 4500hrs to check the valves. I guess if the engine starts easily that is pretty good reassurance that the valves are in proper adjustment. I think I will defer on the valves but will check the front pivot this summer.