Anyone ever use perka building frames?

[NM_Mike]

Kevin,

Your model 5000 really doesn't have 10/12 pitch does it? I didn't know that Perka went that high. I explored going 5/12 pitch.

When are you taking delivery. Mine are to be delivered at the end of March (my schedule). I had the foundation engineered (village requirements). The posts sit on a 3x3 pad. What kind of foundation are you going to use.

Did you purchase Perka's insulation package. A little stiff on the price, but I feel that it is one of the best on the market for a barn/workshop. I will be using the insulation that has the vinyl laminated on the inside face and this will be my finished wall.

Take lots of erection pictures so we can learn from each other.

later,
Mike

 

[kcbarnes]

<font color="blue"> Your model 5000 really doesn't have 10/12 pitch does it? </font>
They are a custom pitch, Martial at Perka says no problem they will do anything.
<font color="blue"> When are you taking delivery. </font>
In about a month but I'm not building till June or so. I will have to figure out the foundation, it will probably be on 42" deep piers.
<font color="blue"> Did you purchase Perka's insulation package. </font>
No, If I insulate in the future I can buy a very similar product about an hour from my house.
pictures will be a given.

 

[kcbarnes]

<font color="blue"> Your model 5000 really doesn't have 10/12 pitch does it?
</font>
See the attached pic of my project drawings from perka. So far perka has been great to work with.

 

[NM_Mike]

Kevin,

I also find Perka easy to deal with.

My sidewalls are also using the 8" I-beam. I am trying to figure out what to use for my girts. I want to install the insulation on the inside of the girt which says I need to have the girt flush with the inside of the I-beam. I also need to have the girt flush with the outside of the I-beam for the metal siding.

The Perka guys have suggested to install 2 2x4, one flush with the outside, and one flush with the inside of the I-beam. Although this is a solution to my problem, I am still looking for alternatives that might be lower in cost. I am investigating 8" wood I-beams. Any other ideas?

Mike

 

[kcbarnes]

<font color="blue">" Any other ideas?"

</font>
I don't think I like the double 2x4 idea either. How about ripping 2x strips the right width and scabbing onto the edge of the wall purlin?

 

[texbaylea]

Kevin

I built a 48' x 60' x 14' Miracle Steel building which look exactly like the Model 4000 Perka shows on their site. I elected to use 2x6 girts and purlins which has made it easy to frame in windows and in part of the building to have 8' ceilings with a storage floor above. I rented a boom truck to erect the frames which we did over a long weekend. It makes a good shop/office building.

Vern

 

[NM_Mike]

Kevin,

Since the Ibeam is 8", are you talking about ripping a 2x4 and toenailing it onto the edge of the 2x6 girt? This approach would limit horizontal deflection, but I am worried about horizontal deflection. Maybe I am not seeing something, why don't you like the double 2x4 girts. I even considered putting the insulation between the metal skin and a 2x6 girt and paneling the internal wall, but this is more expensive than the double 2x4 idea.

I plan on cutting scrap lumber and nailing them between the girts, thus helping with the vertical deflection.

interesting conversation...keep it coming.
Mike

 

[kcbarnes]

I have started checking out rough surface sissor lifts an renting one for a month that way I won't be rushed.

 

[kcbarnes]

My thought would be that with the 2x4 method you would have an air space inbetween them and would lose some of the strenght that you would have with one wider board.

 

[texbaylea]

re: vertical deflection. Vertical deflection is only going to be a problem until you get the steel sheeting on. My frames are spaced at 15' so I cut temporary spacers to put in vertically, 1 or 2 in each interval between frames. Knocked them all out fter putting the sheeting on.