Anyone have a clean way to drain the antifreeze out of a GC engine block?

   / Anyone have a clean way to drain the antifreeze out of a GC engine block? #11  
On my 1715 block/drain hose is right there on frame rail (plugged), how much mess can it make trying to use it?

I usually don't bother changing out AF fluids in any vehicles yearly I just check them to be sure the are up to doing what's required....

 
   / Anyone have a clean way to drain the antifreeze out of a GC engine block? #12  
My suggest is to pull the bottom radiator hose off the engine side. Drain all the antifreeze that will come out. Reinstall the hose and fill with water run for a few minutes and drain again through the bottom radiator hose. Reinstall the hose and fill the the appropriate water-antifreeze mixture.

Stay away from if possible removing the plug on the block. Most diesel have wet sleeves in he engines. This is why it is recommended one use anti cavitation antifreeze made for diesels. A lot of piston damage can occur while you are trying to refill the block and get the air out.

"Most diesel engines are designed with replaceable cast-iron cylinder liners that are pressed into the engine block. While this doesn’t apply to turbodiesel pickups, it affects heavy-duty over-the-road trucks and other diesels.

The piston moves up and down inside the liner while a jacket of coolant surrounds the outside of the liner to cool the engine. When the engine is running, the pistons move vertically inside their liners several thousand times per minute.

Meanwhile, the rotary motion of the crankshaft applies a thrust force through the connecting rods to the piston. These contradictory movements cause the pistons to hammer the liners, causing significant vibration, similar to the effect of ringing a bell."

"This vibration can cause air bubbles to form in the coolant surrounding the liner. When the bubbles rupture, they direct a high-pressure stream of coolant at the liner. Like a rushing river carving away a canyon wall, the coolant can erode the liner until cavities form."

Anti-Cavitation Anti Freeze.


But if you do decide to remove the plug. Consider filling the cooling system with fresh anti freeze then loosen the block drain plug and either use air pressure at the radiator fill location or a radiator pressure tester until new anti freeze is forced out around the block drain plug. Remember the piston sit higher than the drain plug so you will have to insure the complete interior of the block is full.
 
   / Anyone have a clean way to drain the antifreeze out of a GC engine block? #13  
I'm in the "drain whatever comes out of the hose, pour in fresh coolant, and call it a day" camp.
 
   / Anyone have a clean way to drain the antifreeze out of a GC engine block? #14  
Perhaps a lip made of RTV under the drain will allow a funnel to capture the mess? I will be trying this on mine soon.

The owners manual mentions annual coolant change, and directs you to a hose, which seems to only drain the radiator. Draining the block seems to require removal of a plug on the side of a block, but it's definitely a messy process as the coolant runs down the block, axle, frame, and everything else in the vicinity.

Is there a better way to do this?

GC1705
I RTV'd a sheet metal lip under the drain plug that's just big enough to accommodate a funnel.
 

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   / Anyone have a clean way to drain the antifreeze out of a GC engine block? #15  
I remove the lower radiator hose and call the block good. What little that may be left in the block is not an issue with a regularly maintained system and the same coolant chemistry being replaced.
On many newer coolant systems there is the added benefit of not messing with the cheap plastic valve on the bottom of many radiators.
One of my diesel zero turns has a triangular piece of metal that is purpose built to deflect engine oil when changing the filter. It also has a metal petcock for draining the block coolant. Those are the ONLY engineered conveniences I have ever seen for coolant and oil changing.
Really though... It doesn't take much to hose the machine down when done.
Exactly what I do with both of my Large Frame Kubota M9's but I only change it once every 2 years. If your engine is a parent bore, no anti-cavatation additive needed. Only time it is necessary is on a wet linered engine FYI. Moat all late mode tractors are not wet linered. Either parent bore or dry linered.

If you aren't sure go to your nearest truck stop or truck dealership and get a bottle of Cummins DCA4 additive and dump that in with the AF. That takes care of any 'cavatation' issues you might have plus it mitigates cooling system corrosion and solder bloom in the radiator. I use it all the time and it's cheap, about 4 bucks a bottle.
 
   / Anyone have a clean way to drain the antifreeze out of a GC engine block? #16  
I always check my AF concentration with a Brix Refractometer. You can buy them on Amazon for about 15 bucks. I use it not only for AF but to check the coolant concentrations in my flooded coolant machine tools as well. Very accurate, I do not buy pre mix AF, only full concentration and mix it with distilled water ONLY.
 
   / Anyone have a clean way to drain the antifreeze out of a GC engine block? #17  
They make test strips to check just pull a little out and refill if it is low use ell and be done with it also.unless
You run 1k to 2k
Hours a year waste of money
My tractor is twenty years old 368 hours changed once is still good after
The years no leaks no corrosion
But everyone gets to do what they think is right for sure
I also keep my unit in a garage
Makes all the difference in the world
Guys that let their units sit outside that are 3 to 4 Years old and look worse than mine. been turning wrenches for forty years on anything and everything. Just some time with a wrench🚜🤙
 
   / Anyone have a clean way to drain the antifreeze out of a GC engine block?
  • Thread Starter
#18  

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