yea i set it to the specs listed in the manual, but they are kind of a joke. its .02mm difference between the pto's listings. that's almost nothing, breath on it wrong and its different. I did slip it for break in, but yes need to back it off a touch.You may want to tweak the slip clutch. I stalled out my tractor a few times (which I really hate doing) before I dialed in the slip clutch, and got better with the grinder.
Disclaimer I have never used a stump grinder, but I got one for less than a song.This is prolly be the last update for me on this.
I am happy. the machine seems well made. I was concerned with my 20 pto hp, but i can be pretty aggressive, for a home owner machine its more then acceptable. I thought I would need to baby it, but not really. I stalled it once to see how much it takes and its needs like a 4 inch + cut to get there. I did buy a camera, but it was not setup up great out of the gate and had to hold it. If i had to do 40 stumps I would need the camera, but I did 4
the 4 foot stump was massive, and took prolly an hour, but I wasn't really rushing. 1 foot tree's are less then 10 minutes. that said none of my tree's were alive for years, so the wood was softer. Teeth look fine, hit a bunch of rock as well.
Tried to use the chainsaw holder. not sure I figured that out yet, I have a low end consumer chainsaw and the blade is small, max tightness it still slid. I need to investigate another day.
any questions let me know. But I did 80% of my tree's today already with it.
I did have it removed, but I didn't really see it pivot much. If the slip clutch is adjusted properly, it should slip first before it pivots. the unit is over 500 pounds. takes a bit to move it.Disclaimer I have never used a stump grinder, but I got one for less than a song.
Do you remove the second pin that allows the head to pivot backwards when cutting if too big of a bite is taken?
My very similar stump grinder’s front bearing housing is cracked.
My guess is it was used too hard with the pin in and it didn’t allow the head to pivot back.
ThanksI did have it removed, but I didn't really see it pivot much. If the slip clutch is adjusted properly, it should slip first before it pivots. the unit is over 500 pounds. takes a bit to move it.
you are to back the nuts off till the springs are loose. then engage the pto, it should slip, if it doesn't keep them loose, and go cut a tree till it breaks free. if it still doesn't break free you may need to remove the bolts and force them apart.Thanks
The slip clutch on mine looks rusted, so likely won’t slip period.
do you have an air hammer? take an air hammer and open the wedge points, once wedged if you have it, an air hammer with a hammer end and a piece of wood walked it on for me. the alignment was pretty critcal, had to spin it while hammeringWell, I can’t get the PTO shaft onto the grinder. I’ve taken a file and cleaned up the splines on the PTO shaft (basically took the paint off). I can’t see any defects , burrs etc. I finally got the shaft to go on about 1/2” , tapped it with a piece of would and sledge. Nothing. It simply will not slide onto the male shaft of the grinder. I’ll call customer service tomorrow.
do you have an air hammer? take an air hammer and open the wedge points, once wedged if you have it, an air hammer with a hammer end and a piece of wood walked it on for me. the alignment was pretty critcal, had to spin it while ham