Grapple anyone have experience with CID grapples?

[jake98]

If I was paying attention before, instead of ...
well, thanks for the advice, IslandTractor, but now the thing is here. The weight I cut off the front should go on the back, right? I read your posts, but didn't have time for them to sink in.
I'm getting inspired about lightening it up. I'm a contractor, and the area of the 'floor' of it would be good for some of my needs. And I like the 63" wide tooth width. I may be able to remove my poisen ivey in 10 min.
jake

 

[IslandTractor]

Can you post a photo of your grapple and remind us of what model/company it is? Do you know the weight?

(Edit: I just looked back at your earlier posts...do you have the Extreme duty root grapple? That thing is a monster. It must weigh about 650-700lbs)

I'm not sure that there is enough weight in the individual tines to make a huge difference even if you removed alternate ones. On the heavier grapples a good deal of the weight is in the back/attachment point and the cross bracing neither of which should be removed. I'd guess that an individual tine would only weigh about 40lbs. That means that removing four or five would only save you 150lbs and then you'd add weight with the rebar. That is certainly a weight savings but as it would still leave you with a 500+ lbs grapple your CK25/KL130 would still only have about 500-600lbs of lift capacity left. Maybe that is enough to make a difference for you.

I'd still wonder if you could get close to what you paid for the grapple selling it locally to someone with a skidsteer or even swallowing the shipping and sending it back to CID in trade or refund. If you want a lighter weight grapple that is still 60 inches, I'd look at the WRLong RGB2 60". Be careful as WRLong also has a RGB 60" which is much heavier.

I know you like the extra width but the Millonzi 48 can do quite a lot and as it only weighs 280lbs, you'd have quite a lot of extra lift capacity to make up for whatever you lose in width.

 

[garth466]

Island Guy, how much does your grapple run ($ wise). I like the looks of yours and it looks like you are doing what I'll be doing. I just priced Anbo's and I think it was $2800. Seems too much to me. I already have the 4-in-1 set up and I can see the advantage of the grapple. I've got over 55 cedars and 15 or so huge hemlock and firs comign down in the next few days.

I've already bent my 4-in-1 on a root, so once I try to bend it back I'm thinking it will want to bend again using it that way. $2800 just seems too much.

 

[IslandTractor]

Island Guy, how much does your grapple run ($ wise).

The grapple itself (Millonzi 48" "light duty") costs less than $1000. I don't know how much less as they keep inching up the price as they discover they have no competition in that price range and size. However, I'm pretty sure the price is still less than a grand. Shipping from Ohio to WA is probably expensive. I think it was $150 shipping to MA so maybe double that to WA. Mine came FedEx ground.

If you've read my many grapple posts you know that I have been very happy with the grapple and have done a lot of work with it both with my original 20hp CK20 with 1070 lift capacity at the pivot pins and with my current 40hp DK40se with 2700lbs lift at PP. It was light enough (280lbs) to leave the CK20 with plenty of net lift capacity and it is strong enough that I routinely pop the loader relief valve or lift the rear of my bigger tractor off the ground when using it to uproot rocks or trees without damaging the grapple at all. I really have seen no reason to ever have a bigger grapple on a CUT. Guys spend thousands on Anbos and WRLongs and I have never seen a single photo or project description that accomplished something I could not equal with my trusty Millonzi 48LD.

 

[longball]

I have a CID root grapple. It is not one that is on their website, they call this the standard duty. It is made for compact tractors and small skid steers. It looks just like the heavy duty on the website, but it is made out of 3/8 instead of 1/2. It has been perfect for my small New Holland LX 465

 

[bill333]

The reason I was looking for (and have ordered) a bucket grapple is that one of my primary uses will be to saw logs down to woodstove length when in the woods. My understanding is that this is easier to do using a bucket grapple because the side of the bucket will hold the log when sawing (there is a term for this, I forget what it is). Perhaps this can be done with a root grapple but I couldn't find anyone who uses one that way.

As a second use, I figured I could haul my chain saw, gas, etc in the bucket when going into the woods. I do have a trailer, but in what must be one of the oddest design flaws, it is almost impossible to back up because the front wheels pivot and there is no way to lock them. So it's hard to turn in tight spaces.

I do realize I'll be losing 200 pounds or so of lift capacity, so I'll just have to cut everything down to size, which I'd probably have to do since I couldn't move a really long trunk anyway due to clearance.

The grapple itself (Millonzi 48" "light duty") costs less than $1000. I don't know how much less as they keep inching up the price as they discover they have no competition in that price range and size. However, I'm pretty sure the price is still less than a grand. Shipping from Ohio to WA is probably expensive. I think it was $150 shipping to MA so maybe double that to WA. Mine came FedEx ground.

If you've read my many grapple posts you know that I have been very happy with the grapple and have done a lot of work with it both with my original 20hp CK20 with 1070 lift capacity at the pivot pins and with my current 40hp DK40se with 2700lbs lift at PP. It was light enough (280lbs) to leave the CK20 with plenty of net lift capacity and it is strong enough that I routinely pop the loader relief valve or lift the rear of my bigger tractor off the ground when using it to uproot rocks or trees without damaging the grapple at all. I really have seen no reason to ever have a bigger grapple on a CUT. Guys spend thousands on Anbos and WRLongs and I have never seen a single photo or project description that accomplished something I could not equal with my trusty Millonzi 48LD.

 

[IslandTractor]

The reason I was looking for (and have ordered) a bucket grapple is that one of my primary uses will be to saw logs down to woodstove length when in the woods. My understanding is that this is easier to do using a bucket grapple because the side of the bucket will hold the log when sawing (there is a term for this, I forget what it is). Perhaps this can be done with a root grapple but I couldn't find anyone who uses one that way.

Why not just add one or even two grapple arms to your standard bucket? I actually use my root grapple to buck logs but you are correct that being able to jam a log against the bucket side would be nice. The best way to do this I think is with a clamshell root grapple such as sold by WRLong. Those can close tightly on a single log and would be useful even for short logs whereas a bucket grapple will only be useful if the log extends all the way across the bucket so it is pinned by both bucket sides and the grapple.

 

[bjcsc]

I do have a trailer, but in what must be one of the oddest design flaws, it is almost impossible to back up because the front wheels pivot and there is no way to lock them. So it's hard to turn in tight spaces.

Move the tongue to the other axle and make the fixed wheels the front wheels. Problem solved. ...

 

[bill333]

Move the tongue to the other axle and make the fixed wheels the front wheels. Problem solved. ...

That's a good idea and could work, but I'm not sure how to get it done. The rear axle is set in a bit from the rear, and the tongue might not be long enough. But the bigger issue is how to attache the tongue to the rear axle; if I drill a hole and bolt it on (or clevis it) there will still be some rotation. I think it would work if I could brace the tongue on either side with some kind of side bars/angled supports, but that would require welding, and I don't have that capability. Lastly I'd lose the dump capability, since the dump mechanism only will fit on one way.Still your message makes me think I should look at this again...

 

[RollTideRam]

Sounds like you have a wagon, not a trailer. Just pull it close to the spot you need it and load it with your tractor. Then you can still use your bucket to take the saw home. JC