Anyone plow with your backhoe?

[Shett]

Backstory: So I used my box blade on my BX25 to dig a 5-foot wide shallow trench down the side of my yard to keep the monsoon rains from washing my yard out. Initially I was planning to just put some grass in it, but once I had it dug I thought "why not plant crops in there instead". Problem is that our ground out here is pretty hard packed and full of rocks, so I couldn't just plant stuff and expect any kind of decent results. I've been bugging my wife to let me get a plow but she keeps a tight leash on the discretionary funds these days. So then it hit me: Could I just stick my backhoe scoop down enough to get into the dirt and then drive forward using it like a plow?

Turns out that worked better than I thought. Plowed straight the first pass, then just tilted the bh to the left for another pass, and right for a third. This was the result:

It tore stuff up deeper than it looks in the pic (probably a good 8-10"). I'm sure there's some cautionary guidance against doing this but I figured I have enough power with the scoop to pull the tractor backwards, so at worst if I hit something big it should just stop me and not rip the scoop off. I did get stopped a couple of times, then re-adjusted the scoop, and continued on. Here's a closer pic of the ground after:

It did leave the path quite rugged so I ran it over a couple of times with a walk-behind tiller. It's still not quite right, I'd like to add a bunch of compost to it to get some organics in there but I might just do that after trying it out this year.

 

[hosspuller]

I've "plowed" with an outrigger foot that I forgot to lift ...lol

 

[David_Kb7uns]

Be careful not to bend the dipper or the ram, you will not be happy if you do.

David Kb7uns

 

[DB Pilot]

Last year I plowed with my back blade/scraper blade. Turn it to it steepest angle and then tilt so just the first 6 inches bites into the soil. You can move right along turning the soil over. you can then decide whether to turn it back on itself or cut another row. I plowed up about a 1/4 acre for a deer food plot. The few people who saw it thought I had bought a plow. It took about 45 minutes but it was my first time. I think for a small garden it is all you really need. especially if you then use a disc or drag harrow to smooth things up.

 

[rbarker]

I'm no expert but I would be concerned that you could put a lot more force on the unit than it was designed to handle thus putting your dipper and cylinders at risk. I think the weight of the tractor and forward momentum would exceed the break out force that the hoe is rated for which could cause damage. I'm curious to know what some of the experts here think?

Sent from my iPad using TractorByNet

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

My brother lives next door. He has the yard that looks like it should be in a magazine. He's doing all borders with brown pebbles to cut down on his trimming. He asked me a couple of weeks ago if my BH could be used to drive down the side of his drive way and peel off the grass and leave a shallow trench for pebble edging. Told him I wasn't sure but would try it when I bring my B2620 home. Looks like you've answered the question .:thumbsup: :cool2: :thumbsup:

 

[radioman]

From the pictures - it look like you have soft easy soil without too many rocks. Its not the scoop or boom arm I am worried about for you. Its the seals in the ram I that could be ruined since there is no shick protection in those seals. Its easy to replace - but can be time consuming.

 

[crash325]

I have done that several times for trenching. It is nice if someone else drives the tractor (very slowly) while I make sure the backhoe doesn't dig in too deep. A few shallow passes are better than digging too much & straining the hoe.

 

[PAPPASMURF]

I'm no expert but I would be concerned that you could put a lot more force on the unit than it was designed to handle thus putting your dipper and cylinders at risk. I think the weight of the tractor and forward momentum would exceed the break out force that the hoe is rated for which could cause damage. I'm curious to know what some of the experts here think?

Sent from my iPad using TractorByNet

rbarker.....I couldn't agree more. This all sounds like a good Idea, but one bad pass where you snag a large rock, or hit something too hard its going to ruin your backhoe. $$$$$$$$$$ at stake if you ask me. I would think it would be much more safe to use the backhoe like its designed to be used and just take your time 6 to 7 feet at a time. I don't believe the Cylinders or dipperstick can handle that much force and if not right away....eventually its going to cause problems. I would also be concerned about snagging a water line, gas line or anything else unexpectedly and causing a lot of damage if you are not absolutely positive where all lines are located. I HAVE seen that happen several times using a backhoe as a plow. Just thought I'd throw my 2 cents in. :smurf::2cents:

 

[Kyle241]

Agreed that I believe this is a risk. For the price, I would get a used plow or some other implement to help as a BH is an expensive thing to break.

 

[wdchyd]

If your backhoe has work port reliefs (on the dipper especially) then it won't do harm....but most small backhoes don't have them

It creates induced load on the rods and can bend them if extended out, (the dipper cyl is extended all the way out when hoe bucket is close to machine)

it has the same effect as back dragging with your front bucket with bucket tilt cyls all the way out......Oooops....:ashamed:

 

[PAPPASMURF]

If your backhoe has work port reliefs (on the dipper especially) then it won't do harm....but most small backhoes don't have them

It creates induced load on the rods and can bend them if extended out, (the dipper cyl is extended all the way out when hoe bucket is close to machine)

it has the same effect as back dragging with your front bucket with bucket tilt cyls all the way out......Oooops....:ashamed:

I am apparently not educated enough on backhoes! ha ha what exactly is a port relief? would having port reliefs actually prevent damage to the rods?? where would I look to see if mine has any?:smurf:

 

[JerryG]

You will bend the cylinder rods. As far as reliefs go, there is one that only works if the levers are engaged and the other is in case you back into something. That one will not blow if going forward.

 

[radair]

... This all sounds like a good Idea, but one bad pass where you snag a large rock, or hit something too hard its going to ruin your backhoe. $$$$$$$$$$ at stake if you ask me. I would think it would be much more safe to use the backhoe like its designed to be used and just take your time 6 to 7 feet at a time. I don't believe the Cylinders or dipperstick can handle that much force and if not right away....eventually its going to cause problems. I would also be concerned about snagging a water line, gas line or anything else unexpectedly and causing a lot of damage if you are not absolutely positive where all lines are located. I HAVE seen that happen several times using a backhoe as a plow...

Fully agree. It's not worth it when you can easily reach the loader & hydro pedal from the backhoe seat position.

 

[Shett]

No worries about unexpected utilities around here, this area was wide open desert until two years ago. The only thing to worry about here is the septic lines, and those are pretty easy to spot.

I figured it's probably not a good idea but luckily I don't know what it's not supposed to do and I have insurance so I gave it a shot. This may be the only time I ever do that but it's kinda cool to know what's possible.

 

[xring100]

I'm sure it works but i think a used one bottom plow with a shear bolt will be cheaper in the long run than a bent rod/blown seal or worse. Usually stuff like this works the first time flawlessly tricking you into thinking it will work again. The second time you try it the pile will hit the fan and your moment of brilliance fizzles out. Been there and wrecked other stuff

 

[mguitas]

I'm sure it works but i think a used one bottom plow with a shear bolt will be cheaper in the long run than a bent rod/blown seal or worse. Usually stuff like this works the first time flawlessly tricking you into thinking it will work again. The second time you try it the pile will hit the fan and your moment of brilliance fizzles out. Been there and wrecked other stuff

I agree with Dave, unless it's potting soil, i wouldnot be trying that again.To much to go wrong.

 

[Tomtint]

I would not advise doing that, something bad is bound to be the end result

 

[wdchyd]

I am apparently not educated enough on backhoes! ha ha what exactly is a port relief? would having port reliefs actually prevent damage to the rods?? where would I look to see if mine has any?:smurf:

http://www.baumhydraulics.com/files/catalog/h09.pdf

here's a good generic pix of a cross-section of a typical valve.......the work port reliefs (RC1700, RC1950) screw into where the load check valve is pictured

usually they do not come standard, but are an option.......tractor manufacturers use different valves but essentially they work the same

the work port will relief any excess pressure seen when the control valve is in the neutral position, like an induced load from external source (tractor moving)..........otherwise the main relief valve will by-pass oil back to tank (when using the valve spool under normal working operations

 

[wdchyd]

check out figure 6....item 9

http://www.phtruck.com/download/hvd/HVD-Service-Literature/Gresen-Spare-Parts/V20SpareParts.pdf

it shows the difference of the load check valve and the work port relief from a top view

the cavity for the check valve/work port relief will be inline with each spool they are protecting (front and back), sometimes different pressure ratings stamped on them too