Anyone priced Deere's TnT for the 3000 series?

[GreatWhitehunter]

Steve, the diverter kit is a bit different from the 110. I would like to add just the top and no tilt to the tractor. I do have the third scv, I'm using it to run my grapple and the side to side on my harley rake. I'll probably only need the diverter when running the rake since all the other attachments don't have hydraulic's. But it would be nice to have the grapple lines hooked up along with either the top or harley rake. I did look at the kit's contents but $1200 come on? More like $500 to $700 and that's with dealer markup. Even the tnt kit is out rageous I think it was like 2k. It's not like it's gold plated. I'm not one to complain about the cost of tools but how can ccm be a few hundred and deere be in the thousands?

Matt

 

[jenkinsph]

Top and tilt field kit is about $1000+. Diverter about $1200+. Both are high priced addons for a small tractor, if you are considering trading up I would hold off on these improvements because I dont think you could recover much of the costs on trade in. If you keep the 3320 long term the upgraded diverter setup will make life easier and the tractor much more versatile. Even with these upgrades it won't be as flexible as the 110 with three front, three rear and 7 function backhoe, You would still need to use a rear outlet for the front grappel.

The cheapest thing you could do is run lines from the curl cylider to the rear of the tractor to have two outlets for the harley rake. This obviously disables the front bucket from use and you have to get off and swap lines. You can still swap between an auxillary valve and the backhoe using the power beyond loop too.

If it were me I would decide whether I was going to keep the 3320 or buy a 110 first. Then which ever tractor I was keeping would get the diverter setup.



Steve

 

[GreatWhitehunter]

I thought I had made up my mind to buy a 110 but the local yellow deere dealer thinks I'd be better off keeping my 3320 with all the current attachments and getting a cabbed mini ex. They picking up a tracked skid in the future. I've been looking around at the competition and there all running skids and mini's. The TLB is such as versatile setup and I find the ground clearance unmatched. But even the 110 isn't as good of a loader as a skid due to lift and visability. And the hoe isn't as good as a mini. So ground clearance is the area where the 110 is a real winner. The issue for me is the ground clearance isn't really too big an issue on most of my jobs. For the price of a new 110 I can get a low hr cabbed mini and still have 15k left towards a tracked skid. The downside is it's three machines to maintain/repair and store. The 3320 is perfect for around my home. It's never let me down on aly jobs either. The tnt can be had cheap enough from ccm. But I really like the fit an finish of the deere diverter kit.

Matt

 

[jenkinsph]

Matt,
What kind of projects are you undertaking with your equipment? How often do you have to move the equipment?

I started looking at jobs a few years ago and found that the quick in and out (less than two day) jobs were more profitable and were the fastest turn around on payment. With this in mind I knew that moving in one piece of equipment that could handle a multitude of tasks was very important. In my business I use Ford 550 4x4 service trucks which can pull an equipment trailer and still carry the tools and materials in one trip. I looked very hard at buying a Cat 902 wheel loader and a Cat 304.5 mini excavator but considered how much time would be lost just moving equipment that I passed on that. I know that if I were working larger jobs that the larger heavier equipment can certainly outwork my small stuff. After much consideration though I find my profits are similar to some of the larger operators, with far fewer headaches.

I would think in your locale having a cab would be a must and being able to stay in the cab and not have to get in and out would be a big plus, I live in a New Mexico ski town and we get enough snow and wind in the winter to make me apreciate having the Laurin cab on my 110.

I have also found that 6 to 8 foot implements are ideal for most of my work too. Using an 8ft land plane yields far smoother and flatter results than a 5 or 6 ft implement that I had in the past. With the 110 and 4520 I can share implements and both can handle all the equipment I have. My preference is to use the 110 with the backhoe on it full time and use the 4520 for 3 pt tools without a loader in the way. I do a multitude of landscape projects and patios (design build) but also use the 110 in my construction business.

In conclusion I feel alot depends on what tasks you will perform the most, how mobile you need to be, and how large a job it is (how much dirt you need to move) to make a good decision about the equipment purchase.


Steve

 

[GreatWhitehunter]

Matt,
What kind of projects are you undertaking with your equipment? How often do you have to move the equipment?

I started looking at jobs a few years ago and found that the quick in and out (less than two day) jobs were more profitable and were the fastest turn around on payment. With this in mind I knew that moving in one piece of equipment that could handle a multitude of tasks was very important. In my business I use Ford 550 4x4 service trucks which can pull an equipment trailer and still carry the tools and materials in one trip. I looked very hard at buying a Cat 902 wheel loader and a Cat 304.5 mini excavator but considered how much time would be lost just moving equipment that I passed on that. I know that if I were working larger jobs that the larger heavier equipment can certainly outwork my small stuff. After much consideration though I find my profits are similar to some of the larger operators, with far fewer headaches.

I would think in your locale having a cab would be a must and being able to stay in the cab and not have to get in and out would be a big plus, I live in a New Mexico ski town and we get enough snow and wind in the winter to make me apreciate having the Laurin cab on my 110.

I have also found that 6 to 8 foot implements are ideal for most of my work too. Using an 8ft land plane yields far smoother and flatter results than a 5 or 6 ft implement that I had in the past. With the 110 and 4520 I can share implements and both can handle all the equipment I have. My preference is to use the 110 with the backhoe on it full time and use the 4520 for 3 pt tools without a loader in the way. I do a multitude of landscape projects and patios (design build) but also use the 110 in my construction business.

In conclusion I feel alot depends on what tasks you will perform the most, how mobile you need to be, and how large a job it is (how much dirt you need to move) to make a good decision about the equipment purchase.


Steve

Steve, it sounds like we do the same type of jobs. The cab in the winter is a must up here also. But I don't do much work in the winter. I'd like to but I have a real job and two kids (under 2). I've got a Superduty also so moving equipment is key for me too. The tractor work I do is mowing and harley raking so I work in the warmer months. The mini ex is I'm going to get is a 35d
which weighs what my tractor weighs. The skid steer would be about the same weight also. I've got a dump trailer that can also haul the skid or mini. I also have a 25' gn trailer for anything else I might want to haul. I see a real advantage to the dump trailer because most of the competition used a dump truck, and a service truck with trailer so two operators and more over head. For the most part I can haul more than any of the smaller dump trucks. When the hauling is done throw in the equipment and I'm on my way. The big thing here is to offer services others don't.

Guys who do dirt work here are a dime a dozen and since I already have mowing customers I plan on doing 50% mowing which should make me different from the next guy. One thing I've noticed is that guys who only mow don't seem to be in biz too long because the cost of the equipment is too high compared to the amount of work. So I plan on keeping cost under control and not getting in over my head with costs. But my biggest issue is with the guys with the old 2wd tractors and no insurance. They bid $35-$50hr I charge $85 with a $50 transport fee. This year I've gotten alot of " well I had so in so give me a price and he only want's $100 to mow 5 acres"
Then I explain that they aren't insured and have old equipment and are going to drive the tractor to the job. The sad part is alot of the customers didn't care. I really don't know how to compete with that.

Matt

 

[jenkinsph]

Matt,
That is why I work design/build projects, let the handyman types do the maintenance mowing. Most people have a negative attitude about paying to cut the grass, they in addition think they should be able to pay a neighbors kid to do it. I have found that most people are more receptive to paying a larger onetime fee to "make my yard pretty".

On hauling debris I try to limit this as much as possible because it is costly to do and is another thing people don't seem to understand.

I build alot of paver patios and have a good plate compactor for this, custom wrought iron fencing and entry gates, plane, shape, and contouring the ground, build driveways and plantings of everything from grass, trees and shrubs. I do all of this as a break from my regular HVAC and plumbing business.


Steve

 

[GreatWhitehunter]

I should have clarified I don't mow grass. I cut brush and clear tree's. Not stuff homeowners are capible of. The hauling costs is pretty low for me. I get to dump for next to nothing. I also do only local account so not a issue.

Matt

 

[Spudland_Dave]

Diverter about $1200+. Both are high priced addons for a small tractor..

True & False...depending on if you have a cab or not

I've been needing/wanting more remotes out back...you open station guys are lucky in that sense...alot of posts & great ideas on adding 2/3+ remotes using a redily available valve bank on the fender and the PB Circuit...but for us cab guys, a Solenoid valve is pretty much the only option...if anybody prices out a Solenoid valve bank, you'll soon say "maybe Deere's price wasnt that bad"...What held me off from the diverter was they are "fake remotes" in my mind...but when I sit down and pencil everything out...PB Kit (dont currently have it), Solenoid Valve Bank, Hoses, Wiring, Switches, etc.. I'd easily have 1,200 into a home brew system that wouldnt look 1/2 as good as the JD system...

Once I get the Power Rake i'm building buttoned up, I'll squirrel away some pennies for the Diverter kit..

 

[jenkinsph]

True & False...depending on if you have a cab or not

I've been needing/wanting more remotes out back...you open station guys are lucky in that sense...alot of posts & great ideas on adding 2/3+ remotes using a redily available valve bank on the fender and the PB Circuit...but for us cab guys, a Solenoid valve is pretty much the only option...if anybody prices out a Solenoid valve bank, you'll soon say "maybe Deere's price wasnt that bad"...What held me off from the diverter was they are "fake remotes" in my mind...but when I sit down and pencil everything out...PB Kit (dont currently have it), Solenoid Valve Bank, Hoses, Wiring, Switches, etc.. I'd easily have 1,200 into a home brew system that wouldnt look 1/2 as good as the JD system...

Once I get the Power Rake i'm building buttoned up, I'll squirrel away some pennies for the Diverter kit..

I think you took this comment out of context, I meant that if he was going to trade up that lots of buyers would not be willing to reimburse the diverter cost.

Both of my tractors are cabbed.

About the "fake" remotes, consider this, without removing your hand from the joystick you can access the three front functions press a button and access the three rear remotes. Not to bad in my opinion.

What kind of power rake are you building?


Steve

 

[Spudland_Dave]

I think you took this comment out of context, I meant that if he was going to trade up that lots of buyers would not be willing to reimburse the diverter cost.

Yeah, I think your right...but on the same token, what you're saying applies to ANY Option we buy...
Will other people pay more for my 3520 because I got the Skid Steer QA, Rear SCV, Kenwood CD Player, Rear Wiper, Wheel Weights, etc...

Obviously I feel I'd pay more for those options because I DID already hindsight being 20/20...I probably should have gotten the diverter when I bought it because I knew back then I wanted more then 1 rear SCV...

About the "fake" remotes, consider this, without removing your hand from the joystick you can access the three front functions press a button and access the three rear remotes. Not to bad in my opinion.

Umm...I thought the diverter just diverted the 2 loader circuits to the rear...the rear SCV doesnt change via Diverter...

What kind of power rake are you building?

This is what I'm building....99% done, just the final doo dads & trinkets to finish up...I'll let the pics do the talking...