Anyone want to re-sharpen drill bits again......

[LD1]

The best deal I found for the Huot cabinet is $95 & free shipping.
Huot Three-Drawer Drill Bit Dispenser Cabinet for Jobber Length Fractional Sizes 1/16" to 1/2" in 1/64" Increments: Tool Cabinets: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
That's a bit much for me. I might do 70. The cabinet is only 8x8x15" (rounded up)

Just about everywhere I look (I am not an amazon shopper) they are $70. Just google huot 13000.

Even found one on amazon for $65 + 12 to ship. (Not sure how prime works buy may get by the shipping)
Amazon.com: HUOT #13 FRACTIONAL DRILL DISPENSER ORGANIZER CABINET HOLDS 1/16" - 1/2" BITS: Automotive

I keep ONE sharp drill in each index. fractional Letter and number. When one gets "used up", it's replaced from an old beat up tackle box that holds the 5 pack paper envelopes that twist drill usually come in.
If the size needing replaced is one I don't have, that triggers a "buy" order. ;-)

The system works quite well, but I never really know if I'm ahead on inventory. Some sizes just don't get used much. I've been considering a metric "set", but those darn things come in too many sizes. With a caliper in hand, it seems like there is always something on hand "close enough". I always consider "probable hole size" when selecting a twist drill. Lots to take into consideration there.

15+ years in an industrial maintenance/machine/multi-craft setting and I have never had a need for a metric bit. With a full compliment of letter, number, and fractional drills...always something close. Most drill tap charts assume 70%, so if I get close....who cares if I come in at 75% with a slightly smaller bit or 65% with a slightly larger bit.

About the only time I think one could have a use for a metric bit is if you intend to use metric dowels. But at work, if a dowel pin hole needs reworked, it gets converted to a standard size anyway.

 

[Mace Canute]

DRILL POINT GEOMETRY by JOSEPH MAZOFF

 

[Oldpath05]

Eyes are not working as well as they use to, even with cheaters it seems that I'm never in the right position of light. Now I use the DD for anything less than 1/4"

I'm seeing this theme more and more here and I thought it was just me................DD works good when new but me thinks the small wheel wears down to fast for the price.

 

[Oldpath05]

^^^ X2 on the belt grinder. ^^^

When I have a bunch of drill bits to sharpen I'll re-read the directions for the Drill Doctor and use it but I'll most often touch up a bit I need on the belt.

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Terry

Here's the man with all the best tools in the best organized shop on TBN......do does will those belt sanders sharpen Cobalt drill bits? yes no maybe......

 

[Big Barn]

Here's the man with all the best tools in the best organized shop on TBN......do does will those belt sanders sharpen Cobalt drill bits? yes no maybe......

The short "Big Barn" answer is yes. Belt used is usually blue zirconia, but I'm embarrassed to say I use whatever grit happens to be on the machine, be it 80 or 120.

I'm quite certain those more knowledgeable will suggest otherwise or hopefully re-educate me.

Terry

 

[LD1]

I don't sharpen anything under 1/2".

I consider those disposable bits that I have about and endless supply stream of.

Anything over half though especially if there is some chipping, I like a 60 grit belt. 120 just takes too long.

If I was sharpening smaller bits, 120 would probably be a good choice

 

[JIGBUILDER]

AS my user name says I'm a retired journeyman aircraft jigbuilder/toolbuilder (soft and hard). This type work is mostly done out on the shop floor much of the time away from our home shop. So all drilling/tapping/reaming in steel/aluminum is done by hand in material thickness up to 2-3 inches at times and up to 1" diameter either drilled or reamed . This is done best using a drill block with drill bushings clamped in place.
Holes are usually started by hand with a "10 high speed split point drill.....then stepped out with 3 or 4 flute piloted core drills for a tapped hole or for a pilot size for the finnish reamer. Core drills are the way to go in stepping out holes....no hangups.

Tool sharpening was done by very experienced guys and gals in our in house tool grinding shop. Boy do I miss them for sharpening my regular two flute drill bits and core drills.

So the wife bought me a 750x DD that works with two flute drills bits up to 3/4". ....and the best part is with a split point. It does a good job but not like my old tool grinding buddies at work did.
I don't use a cobalt drills in starting a hole by hand in steel as they require lots of pressure. However on a drill press with power feed they do last a long time.

Now if DD made a tool sharpening set up for 3-4 flute core drills. I do it by hand now but usually just one or two flutes do the cuttin'