Aquiline Talon chains

[whistlepig]

I sent you a PM, Dave... for anyone else that would like to see them, here is the link to the Tellefsdal instruction page for my chains, which they list as "Super Tractor". The translation from Norwegian to English is interesting in places.

http://www.tellefsdal.no/Montering/Super%208-9,5%20mm.pdf

I had to click the reload button to get the page to load properly, it may just be me that has the problem though.

Mine slapped the fenders a bit at first, the problem was that I had too much slack in the cross-chain joiners, the side chains weren't the problem. Once I got that right they were as quiet as a mouse. Well... ok, they were as quiet as 80 pounds of chain mounted to an AG tire can be

Incidentally, if the wife has any tendency to run over your foot with the tractor, hide the keys as long as the chains are on...

Sean

Got your PM. Thank you very much. Your Tellefsdal (Norse) chains are identical to my Aquiline Talons. It's an important heads up for tire wear due to chain tightness. I am going to watch my tires for chain damage thanks to your recommendation. If something is going to give for sure it's not going to be these chains. These chains are so heavy and aggressive I can see the rubber in the tire giving up before the studs in the chain. There is a very real possibility of these chains chewing the tires.

 

[simonmeridew]

whistle
I tried the chains loose like my instructions said, on my Kubota, for I think 2 years and they slapped the fenders occasionally like chilly said. Then I tightened them up like we do regular tire chains in Vermont and they worked better. BTW, I've never had to put on those bungee tighteners on my Norse chains.

I have the double ring chains for 25 years on my 8N Ford. I've had to put on the bungee tighteners on every year. Otherwise they "walk off the tire", not just "around the tire". That's not a lot of fun digging the tractor out of 6 inches of mud under 2 feet of snow up in the woods, then putting the chain back on. But these are the double ring chains, not the Norse ones, which are superior

simonmeridew

 

[whistlepig]

whistle
I tried the chains loose like my instructions said, on my Kubota, for I think 2 years and they slapped the fenders occasionally like chilly said. Then I tightened them up like we do regular tire chains in Vermont and they worked better. BTW, I've never had to put on those bungee tighteners on my Norse chains.

I have the double ring chains for 25 years on my 8N Ford. I've had to put on the bungee tighteners on every year. Otherwise they "walk off the tire", not just "around the tire". That's not a lot of fun digging the tractor out of 6 inches of mud under 2 feet of snow up in the woods, then putting the chain back on. But these are the double ring chains, not the Norse ones, which are superior

simonmeridew

For sure, between you and chilly, you have got me fine tuned in on these chains and what to watch out for. This is priceless information for me to know now and not learn when the snow comes. These chains look like they have a tendency to "walk". If the chains "walk" the studs will not be centered on the tire. Mounted tightly I drove around the yard for an hour today and these chains didn't "walk" or didn't loosen. But I see chilly's point also. That these chains are so aggressive that the tires should be closely watched. These Norse chains are extremely well made. Once fit up is made there is virtually no give or loosening to these chains. I see no need for chain tensioners. These chains are not for asphalt or concrete drives. They will chew asphalt and concrete up. But for my 900' of gravel drive and clearing snow around a soupy barn lot they seem perfect for me.