Leejohn
Elite Member
I would send them back, they should of not even come out of the plant like that.. When I pay for something with a good check I want what ever it is to be good.
Are these pole barn trusses defective, or are they okay to use?
- Thread starter ju2tin
- Start date
- Views: 18580
BKBoiss
Gold Member
I have noticed from other posts and projects that some guys on here have access to EXCEPTIONALLY high quality lumber. Around here that is perfectly acceptable lumber for trusses or any other building projects. I think it all depends on what is the "norm" in your neck of the woods but I wouldn't even give that a second glance.
Tractor Seabee
Elite Member
- Joined
- Oct 5, 2011
- Messages
- 3,896
- Tractor
- Kubota BX25
If the trusses are designed to use utility grade lumber then that is what you get. If designed to use construction grade lumber they are marginal but probably acceptable if that is the only flaw. Structural design and the specification built too is the key.
That looks like pine lumber and it does not have the strength of Douglas fir lumber like is used here in the NW. Construction grade lumber is the lowest grade allowed by the building code structural criteria. All my reference material is still packed away from the move so I am talking off the top of my head. Worth checking out with your local building inspector before you raise a fuss w/o having your ducks in a row. What you paid is part of what you get. Areas where their is no inspection are a great place to unload low grade products instead of scrapping.
Ron
That looks like pine lumber and it does not have the strength of Douglas fir lumber like is used here in the NW. Construction grade lumber is the lowest grade allowed by the building code structural criteria. All my reference material is still packed away from the move so I am talking off the top of my head. Worth checking out with your local building inspector before you raise a fuss w/o having your ducks in a row. What you paid is part of what you get. Areas where their is no inspection are a great place to unload low grade products instead of scrapping.
Ron
Snobdds
Elite Member
Truss companies keep cost down by buying marginal lumber. However, for a truss, it doesn't matter and they're made to hold compression loads, not sheer loads. The sheeting on top of the roof does the work of holding sheer loads. The gang plates just make sure the wood stays connected and stable in compression loading. The gang plates never hold sheer loads.
They look perfectly fine to me.
They look perfectly fine to me.
LD1
Epic Contributor
Alot of tension loads in a truss. Not just compression. And with that gang plate being on the bottom cord, it's in tension. So missing some of the holding power of the gang plate....I can see why one would be concerned.
When I was truss shopping and having a custom truss mfg spec and quote trusses, the plates were a big deal. I priced several different ways. 36' and 40' span, 4', 5', 8', and 12' centers.
Sometimes the only difference when you step up in span or spacing is the plates. Take a truss rated for 40' on 4' centers and up it to a 5' spacing, same lumber size and grade, but bigger and thicker plates. So they certainly do matter.
The top and bottom 2x6 boards on my trusses were MSR lumber. (Machine stress rated). Which is higher than #1 grade. There are different levels of MSR too. Don't recall what mine are. 1500msr 1.6e seems to stick in my head.
Webs are #1 grade.
I settled on 40' trusses on 4' centers. First quote had CSI's all in the 90's. So I requested we.get that a little better. Top cord spec changed from #1 to the MSR, webs went from #2 to #1, and bottom went from a #1 2x4 up to a MSR 2x6 to match the top.
Took my csi down to 0.60-0.70. MUCH better.
When I was truss shopping and having a custom truss mfg spec and quote trusses, the plates were a big deal. I priced several different ways. 36' and 40' span, 4', 5', 8', and 12' centers.
Sometimes the only difference when you step up in span or spacing is the plates. Take a truss rated for 40' on 4' centers and up it to a 5' spacing, same lumber size and grade, but bigger and thicker plates. So they certainly do matter.
The top and bottom 2x6 boards on my trusses were MSR lumber. (Machine stress rated). Which is higher than #1 grade. There are different levels of MSR too. Don't recall what mine are. 1500msr 1.6e seems to stick in my head.
Webs are #1 grade.
I settled on 40' trusses on 4' centers. First quote had CSI's all in the 90's. So I requested we.get that a little better. Top cord spec changed from #1 to the MSR, webs went from #2 to #1, and bottom went from a #1 2x4 up to a MSR 2x6 to match the top.
Took my csi down to 0.60-0.70. MUCH better.
mopardude318
Platinum Member
I wouldn't accept that just because its ugly. give a **** if it'll hold...
kduncan
New member
Ask the owners of the company that sold them to stand on that roof or take them back
Cord
Veteran Member
Your trusses should have come with a set drawings. In those drawings should be an engineers seal. That engineer may not work for the company you bought the trusses from. I'd suggest sending the photos to that engineer to see what thoughts are. It's his stamp, so if he says they're good, then I wouldn't worry.
boggen
Elite Member
- Joined
- Feb 22, 2011
- Messages
- 3,789
- Location
- Trivoli, IL
- Tractor
- SSTT (Sideways Snake Tain Tractor) and STB (sideways train box) tractor, dirt harvester
the black mold is what i am having issues with. (no clue about the lumber itself)
some of the black stuff might be grease or something and obtained from fork lift or the trailer or chains to strap it to trailer, but some of it looks like mold. and guessing lumber seating in wet damp building. and causing mold growth.
some of the black stuff might be grease or something and obtained from fork lift or the trailer or chains to strap it to trailer, but some of it looks like mold. and guessing lumber seating in wet damp building. and causing mold growth.
Dave M7040
Elite Member
- Joined
- Dec 10, 2012
- Messages
- 2,757
- Location
- Williamstown Ontario Canada
- Tractor
- Kubota M7040 Nuffield 465
I have been a mechanical engineer since 1972.
To ensure you end up with a safe building, I would be asking the Truss Engineer to put his opinion on the trusses in writing and then provide a copy to the Municipal Building inspectors to file.
Should anything ever go wrong, you want written signed documents located in several places not just a verbal statement to you or a dog eared letter dug from an old box of stuff which is barely legible.
Larger municipalities have professional engineers in the Building Dept. In Canada, it is these municipal building engineers who blow the whistle with professional associations who license engineers when something flakey is taking place. Engineers are no different than any other profession. A few have been known to sell their stamped approval on matters beyond their experience or skill.
The Municipal Building Engineers can be your free quality assurance people.
Dave M7040
To ensure you end up with a safe building, I would be asking the Truss Engineer to put his opinion on the trusses in writing and then provide a copy to the Municipal Building inspectors to file.
Should anything ever go wrong, you want written signed documents located in several places not just a verbal statement to you or a dog eared letter dug from an old box of stuff which is barely legible.
Larger municipalities have professional engineers in the Building Dept. In Canada, it is these municipal building engineers who blow the whistle with professional associations who license engineers when something flakey is taking place. Engineers are no different than any other profession. A few have been known to sell their stamped approval on matters beyond their experience or skill.
The Municipal Building Engineers can be your free quality assurance people.
Dave M7040